World Record | this bird flies

Given the most recent Israeli/Gaza conflict, some back ground information is probably critical. Let’s face it, Israel and the Middle East don’t get a lot of great press when it comes to safety and security. Due to lack of interest, global awareness or even opportunity, some people don’t have any knowledge of WHY the conflict even exists. Here is a very brief explanation:

While I can’t claim to be an expert in international politics in any way, I can tell you what we saw. For background, we visited the West Bank–not Gaza. There is a difference! We crossed at a pedestrian only checkpoint, as most are, so we either had to rent a car, or hire a guide with a vehicle. Navigating the road restrictions was more than we wanted to bargain for by ourselves, and we were forbidden from driving our rental car in the West Bank. As a result, we hired a guide for the day.

Warning — There are 3 areas, A, B and C. A is controlled by PNA, B is patrolled by PNA, but enforced by IDF and C is IDF.

Most news footage of the Middle East is typically of missiles, rubble, and agonizing grief. Mainstream media does more to misinform than it does to enlighten when it comes to Israel/Palestine conflict, and the portrayal of the people living in these areas. I didn’t feel unsafe in any way where we were. There was one freaky road sign, that Salwa explained to us. Israeli Defence Forces (IDF)and Palestinian National Authority (PNA) control three different areas, A, B and C, in the West Bank. FYI: Hamas controls Gaza. HUGE difference. Google it if you like.

Here is some information about our guide, Salwa, an actual human being from Palestine. Salwa is a Palestinian woman, who was born in Colombia. She grew up the West Bank, and now lives with her husband and daughters near Beit Jala. Her family lived in Detroit, MI for a while when her Palestinian husband was working there as a university professor. She’s a witty woman who speaks several languages. During the course of the day she spoke English, Arabic, French and Spanish.

Salwa is a Catholic, not a Muslim. It always seems to be portrayed that all Palestinians practice Islam. (Thanks network news!) She explained to us that religious faith is listed on identification papers. I asked what would happen if a person doesn’t believe in anything? She answered that it isn’t possible to have a choice of “no religion.” For the sake of profiling, if the person selects none, they are by default listed as the same faith as their parents.

Salwa was willing to answer our questions about day to day life under occupation in The West Bank. Let’s begin the recap of the day…

Rachel’s Crossing – Israeli Check-Point

We crossed from Jerusalem at Rachel’s Crossing. This is the closest crossing to Bethlehem, Nativity Square, and some of the churches and monasteries we wanted to see.

Rachel’s Tomb Crossing, Israeli Side

Rachel’s Tomb Crossing, Palestinian Side

There is a stark contrast between the Israeli side and the Palestinian side. In a conflicted way, I was loving the art on the wall.

Orthodox Monasteries

We arranged to visit the Mar Saba Monastery in the Kidron Valley, and St George’s Monastery in Wadi Qelt, as well as the Monastery of the Temptation in Jericho. All three are Greek Orthodox Monasteries. Salwa actually thought we were Orthodox because we wanted to see them. That’s funny! FYI: As females, Salwa and I weren’t allowed into Mar Saba Monastery. We waited outside while a young kid came out to offer us water and cookies.

Mar Saba Monastery, Kidron Valley The West Bank

Female Pilgrims outside Mar Saba Monastery

Kidron Valley The West Bank

St George’s Monastery Wadi Qelt, The West Bank

Living quarters, Mount of Temptation, Jericho

Jericho

Jericho is thought to be the world’s lowest lying, oldest, continually inhabited city. It is approximately 850 feet below Sea Level. There have been archaeological evidence of settlements up to 10,000BC. That’s pre-pottery folks! Another fun fact–Jericho has the World Record for the longest cable car below Sea Level. We stopped in Jericho for lunch which included Knafeh, a traditional Palestinian desert.

Jericho Cable Car

Sea Level, The West Bank

Manger Square, Bethlehem

UNESCO Designation, Church of the Nativity Bethlehem

The Church of the Nativity in Bethlehem is traditionally thought to be the birthplace of Jesus. As of 2012, the basilica is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. We visited the Grotto of the Nativity, and saw the 14 pointed silver star that marks the spot of Jesus’ birth. Unlucky for you, the photos were a blur. We were being rushed by a crowd, and Salwa was being shushed by one of the Orthodox Monks. (She said he usually gives her a hard time for being too sassy when she’s there.)

Mosaic Floor, Church of the Nativity

The Wall

I started this entry with photos of the Wall, it is called a Security Fence, a Separation Fence, an Anti-Terrorism Wall, a Racial Segregation Wall and an Apartheid Wall. Prior to even planning a trip to Israel, I saw a news story about the wall and wanted more information. A couple of the books that I found helpful were A Wall in Palestine and Behind the Wall: Life, Love and Struggle in Palestine. There are so many awful, infuriating stories to be told. Stories of separation, resilience, desperation, and strength of spirit.

I had been asking Salwa a lot of questions about the wall and living under occupation. She actually stopped the car, started talking to a man who graciously invited us into his home so that we could see how construction of the wall affected his family. It was heart-breaking! Here is what we saw from his balcony.

The wall protecting Route 60 – Israeli Only highway through the West Bank

The view from their deck. Where the wire fence is currently is where the wall was supposed to be built–right over the family’s tiny garden that is in ruins now.

This portion protects the Israeli Only highway through the West Bank

Essentially, the wall serves to protect one side, and imprison another. Courtesy of googling “effectiveness of the separation barrier” Israeli statistics say that between 2000 and 2003 there were 73 suicide bomber attacks, and from 2003 to 2006 there were only 12. With 521 attacks stopped during that same period. That’s A LOT.

Both sides are being driven to desperation. There has to be a better way.
~j

Dunedin, at the Southern end of the South Island of New Zealand, was our last city before heading back to Auckland for flights home. While there, I was fortunate to be able to catch up with an old friend that I’ve known since I was 5 years old. He’s been living in New Zealand with his wife and 2 children for quite a while now.

Dunedin is an awesome city. There’s something for everyone–architecture, nature, cuisine, history. It really was a great place to spend our last few days in NZ.

Dunedin Railway Station

St Joseph’s Cathedral, Dunedin NZ

First Church of Otago, Dunedin New Zealand

If you’ve spent any time with Fazh recently, I guarantee you’ve heard about Baldwin Street. Baldwin Street was among one of the many attractions of historic Dunedin that we were able to visit. According to the Guinness Book of World Records, this street is the steepest street in the world. At its steepest section the gradient is 1 in 2.86. So for ever 2.86 meters traveled horizontally, the elevation changes by one meter.

Baldwin Street, The Steepest Street in the World

Every year there are people, CRAZY people who run to the top and back during the “Baldwin Street Gutbuster.” And, for annual charity events, up to 30,000 chocolate candies that look like orange gumballs are rolled down the street. Each of the orange “Jaffas” is purchased for charity prior to the big event. Prizes go to the person whose Jaffa reaches the bottom first. That’s about the only good thing that candy would be for. Chocolate and orange=gross! The video isn’t the best quality, but it’ll do.

We climbed to the top of Baldwin Street…IN THE RAIN, and gladly collected our certificates of achievement when we returned to the tiny shop at the bottom.

Have you encountered any odd World Records in your travels?
~j