Tag Archives: West Bank

Jerusalem: The Old City

Jerusalem is Israel’s largest city by surface, but has less population than Tel Aviv.  Overstating the historical significance of Jerusalem would be difficult.  The Old City of Jerusalem is a UNESCO World Heritage site, and home to the cornerstones of three faiths, Judaism, Islam and Christianity with approximately 460,000 Jews, 225,000 Muslims, and 15,000 Christians.

Religion has the power to unite people with set rules, beliefs and traditions.  A Christian, Muslim or Jew in the USA,  Asia or Africa will all have relatively the same teachings based on their specific faiths.  This creates a beautiful sense of community.

On the other hand, Religion has as much, if not more, power to divide.  There is discord both amongst, as well as within each of the three faiths and their sects.  Catholics and Protestants, Shia and Sunni, Orthodox or Conservative etc.  Consequently, there has been much violence amongst and within the three for as long as they’ve been practiced.

The Western Wall, The Dome of the Rock and The Church of the Holy Sepulchre, along with numerous synagogues, mosques, churches, their associated traditions and teachings have anchored these faiths to the city for millennia.

We’ve traveled the world in a secular way to some of the most holy places for many faiths.  I’ve done my best to research, and experience aspects of these religions, and don’t intend offence to anyone reading.  I’ll simply tell you what we saw in the Old City of Jerusalem.

The Western Wall – The Kotel

If you’ve ever seen a travel show about Jerusalem, you’ve seen the Western Wall with the extraordinarily devout Jewish people rocking back and forth whilst praying or reciting the book of psalms.  (Some visit the site daily to recite the entire book.)  The Prayer Plaza is a site of pilgrimage for Jews and non-Jews world-wide.

The Western Wall - Jerusalem
The Western Wall – Jerusalem

Visitors tuck slips of paper with prayers and requests into the wall in hopes that they’ll be answered.  Tradition says a person who goes to the Western Wall, and prays for 1 request for 40 consecutive days will have that request granted.  FYI: You can even sign up on-line to have someone make the 40 days of prayer for you by proxy, for a fee of course!

But, why is it more effective to pray at the Western Wall than anywhere else?!?  What’s wrong with praying at a  neighbourhood synagogue, home, etc.? Couldn’t the person just make the request from Albuquerque if needed? The answer can be sweetly summed up with a quick Google search for some Rabbinical wisdom.

…although G‑d is everywhere, His light shines stronger in some places than in others. He compares this to the human body: You are everywhere in your body, yet you are far more conscious of your mind than of your toes. So too, in the universe that G‑d created, there are places, times and states of being where we are able to be more aware of Him—and it is from those places/times/states that our prayers can fly best.

from: http://www.chabad.org

We arrived in Jerusalem during Jewish holiday of Shavuot, and saw thousands of people making their way to the Wall.  The assortment of religious attire is fascinating!  Fuzzy fur hats, long woolen coats, knotted strings on shirt corners, tiny boxes tied to the top of the head, the list goes on. Check out  the Tefellin, the Tallit, the Shtreimel, and why they are customary to some, but not others.

Shavuot in Jerusalem
Families making their way to the Western Wall for Shavuot

Jewish women also have specific dress codes with black being the color of choice for most, with very modest hemlines and collars.  Most had their hair covered as is mandatory for married Orthodox women. We did not notice any women wearing pants.

The Bar Mitzvah celebrations we saw were super fun, but also upsetting.  The area is segregated into men’s and women’s prayer sections, so a mother isn’t able to attend her own son’s Bar Mitzvah celebration, but has to watch from behind a fence.  Though tradition, this was kind of unfortunate.

Bar Mitzvah Celebration, Jerusalem
One of the many Bar Mitzvah celebrations we saw approaching the Western Wall Plaza

The ancient, 2,000-year-old stones of the Western Wall have witnessed the Jewish people’s birth, exile, and redemption.  This is where the Jewish nation’s past mingles with its hopes for the future.

from: http://www.thekotel.org

Outside of Temple Mount, the Western Wall is the most sacred site for the Jewish faith.  What we see today is  a remnant of the western retaining wall of the Second Temple built by Herod the Great.   Although, there is much more of the wall visible beneath the surface which we were able to see.

We did the tour of the Kotel or  Western Wall tunnels.  If you’re going to Jerusalem, make sure to pre-book a time for this tour as it is well worth the visit.  The Western Wall is a captivating and bewildering piece of the religious significance in Jerusalem.

The Dome of the Rock
The Dome of the Rock, Jerusalem
The Dome of the Rock, Jerusalem

This shining dome pictured above the Western Wall is an iconic symbol of the Old City of Jerusalem. The glittering golden dome was not always golden; it was refinished in the early ’90’s to its current state.  The dome is only a small part of the beauty of the building.  The Islamic art covering the exterior is phenomenal.

In addition to the Dome of the Rock, The Dome of the Chain and the Al-Aqsa Mosque are atop the site.  Muslims believe the “Rock” is the spot that Muhammad visited on his Night Journey, and the al-Aqsa Mosque is the spot from which Muhammad ascended to Heaven with the angel Gabriel to pray with other prophets.

As the third holiest site in Islam, The Dome of the Rock is obviously an important place of worship.  Unfortunately, due to conflict, Israeli police restrict the access of Muslim Palestinians to the site.   Men from the West Bank must be over 35 in order to apply for a permit to visit the site, and even then they are typically restricted to access on Muslim holidays only.

As non-Muslims, we weren’t permitted to enter either of the mosques, but we were able to tour the exteriors and grounds freely. On our return to Canada, a few people asked why we didn’t just say we were Muslim and go into the mosque.  Well…not only would that be dishonest, but also pretty obvious that we’re not Muslim through not knowing mosque customs or behaviour etc enough to pass muster.

The other huge reason is that faking isn’t really an option when officials ask visitors to quote passages of the Qur’an in Arabic at the entrance.   I have only mastered a few basic Arabic phrases, and I’m sure basic greetings,  “a man and a boat,” or, “a girl and a bicycle,” don’t cut it!

Holy of Holies warning - Temple Mount
Holy of Holies warning – Temple Mount

This Dome is also atop the holiest site on earth (The Holy of Holies)  for Judaism, which Jewish Law bans Jews from visiting. The Dome covers the Foundation Stone, believed by Jews to be the first part of the earth to come into existence, and the spot where God gathered earth to create Adam.   Jews also believe the rock is  the foundation for the Ark of the Covenant.

The Dome of the Rock is a flash point for tension.   The Friday that we toured the Mount of Olives, there was a scuffle/riot/police situation going on at the Temple Mount.

Recently, I read that the Temple Mount has been temporarily closed to visitors, and that the age minimum of worshippers from the West Bank was raised from 35 to 50 years. Clearly, there is no constancy or certainty of access which  really is unfortunate.

The Church of the Holy Sepulchre

The holiest place in Christendom is The Church of the Holy Sepulchre.  Christians believe the church is the site of the crucifixion, burial and resurrection of Jesus.

The Holy Sepulchre Church, Jerusalem
The Holy Sepulchre Church, Jerusalem

The Holy Sepulchre is nothing fanciful outside.  The exterior is blandly nondescript.  Oddly enough, the interior an utter hodge podge of decorative styles inside from highly ornate to completely run down and fire damaged.

At the time of the Crusades, there were  three primary denominations appointed to care for the church, Greek Orthodox, Armenian Apostolic and Roman Catholic Churches.   Since then, there are Coptic Orthodox, Ethiopian Orthodox and Syrian Orthodox churches and shrines within and around the Holy Sepulchre.

A schedule has been made to regulate times and places of worship for each sect.  Since 1192, the keys of the Holy Sepulchre were entrusted to a Muslim family, as none of the factions could agree on who should hold the key for fear of limiting the others’ access. A whole other kind of conflict exists at this holy place!

Eleven monks – seven of them Ethiopian, four Egyptian – were hurt in the violence which followed as the rivals hurled stones, iron bars and chairs at each other.

from: http://www.news.bbc.co.uk

For example, a 2002 scuffle between the Ethiopian Orthodox Church and the Coptic Church of Egypt that resulted in serious injuries.  And this, all because the Ethiopians objected to a Coptic Monk moving his chair a mere 8 inches in an attempt to find shade on a stifling summer day.

It probably doesn’t help that in 1970, the Ethiopians changed the locks on the rooftop chapel while the Coptics were attending midnight prayers, which is why the Coptic Monk was sitting watch/staking claim to the chapel in the first place.  The behaviour is mind-boggling!

Clearly, they’re a ridiculously territorial passionate bunch at the Holy Sepulchre, and any violation on boundaries  can bring on fisticuffs.  I don’t think this video shows the ethic of reciprocity that is supposed to be embodied by the Golden Rule.

Nothing represents the absurdity of the discord quite as well as The Immovable Ladder.  This little cedar ladder has been the source of conflict for over a century.  Due to Church governance, no cleric of any of the orders may move or rearrange property without the consent of all of  the other 5 orders.

No agreement can be made on who has the right to move the ladder.   To maintain status quo, no one dares touch it.  Yes, folks, that’s a 150-year-old argument about a ladder! (FYI: You can see it under the right window in the photo of the church above)

We didn’t see any of this conflict during our visit to this church.  We did wait with hundreds of pilgrims (mostly Russian and Ethiopian) to visit Jesus’ tomb.  The group in front of us was chanting and singing while waiting.  The zombie drone-like chanting was FREAKY, but the singing was pretty.

The tomb, the actual Holy Sepulchre, is the last stop on the Via Dolorosa, a walk following the 14 Stations of the Cross believed to trace Christ’s footsteps to the crucifixion.

The Via Dolorosa

We walked the Via Dolorosa in a round about way while exploring the Souk.  Some of the stations were very difficult to find.  Scholars doubt the path Jesus took was anywhere near this current path.   Through many centuries, they’ve been created, venerated and become fact to the faithful.

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We visited stations 10-13 inside the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, but it wasn’t always possible/polite to photograph.  For example, there was a line to visit Golgotha.  Stopping to photograph and hold up legit pilgrims would have been obnoxious.

The Old City of Jerusalem, and the little we learned about traditions and religious practices was incredibly fascinating, frustrating and a little frightening at the same time.  The fervour of worship was unlike anything I’ve ever seen.

Faith, rather than fanaticism, entwined with tolerance would make for a much more peaceful region.  Here’s hoping.

~j

Israel and Palestine: Street Art

When we had finally confirmed we were going to the Middle East, and actually able to visit Bethlehem, I was super excited for the historical aspects of the visit, but also the impressive art that would be on the separation fence.   I had seen works by Banksy on the wall, and read up on some of them, and the reactions they caused.

Admiring such a torturous, agonizing structure definitely left me feeling pretty crummy, but at the same time, I understood the need to turn the wall into something inspiring–covering something so ugly with beauty, or even just a tiny political kick to the powers that be.

I’ve been reluctant to post some of the photos as I don’t read Arabic or Hebrew, and cannot manage to find a proper translation for some of the pictures.  It is NOT my intent to post anything the perpetuates hate or racism.  Based on the pictures accompanying the writing, my guess is they’re not, so I’m taking the risk.   I’ve managed to painstakingly translate some of the Hebrew.  Mr. H. Vacui is quite the poet…

Enjoy
~j

Palestine: The West Bank

Given the most recent Israeli/Gaza conflict, some back ground information is probably critical.  Let’s face it, Israel and the Middle East don’t get a lot of great press when it comes to safety and security.  Due to lack of interest, global awareness or even opportunity, some people don’t have any knowledge of WHY the conflict even exists.  Here is a very brief explanation:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y0yy-pzoFg0&feature=youtu.be

While I can’t claim to be an expert in international politics in any way, I can tell you what we saw.  For background, we visited the West Bank–not Gaza.  There is a difference!  We crossed at a pedestrian only checkpoint, as most are, so we either had to rent a car, or hire a guide with a vehicle.   Navigating the road restrictions was more than we wanted to bargain for by ourselves, and we were forbidden from driving our rental car in the West Bank.  As a result, we hired a guide for the day.

Warning
There are 3 areas, A, B and C. A is controlled by PNA, B is patrolled by PNA, but enforced by IDF and C is IDF.

Most news footage of the Middle East is typically of missiles, rubble, and agonizing grief. Mainstream media does more to misinform than it does to enlighten when it comes to Israel/Palestine conflict, and the portrayal of the people living in these areas.    I didn’t feel unsafe in any way where we were.  There was one freaky road sign, that Salwa explained to us. Israeli Defence Forces (IDF)and Palestinian National Authority (PNA) control three different areas, A, B and C, in the West Bank.   FYI: Hamas controls Gaza.  HUGE difference.  Google it if you like.

Here is some information about our guide, Salwa, an actual human being from Palestine.  Salwa is a Palestinian woman, who was born in Colombia.  She grew up the West Bank, and now lives with her husband and daughters near Beit Jala.  Her family lived in Detroit, MI for a while when her Palestinian husband was working there as a university professor.  She’s a witty  woman who speaks several languages. During the course of the day she spoke English, Arabic, French and Spanish.

Salwa is a Catholic, not a Muslim.  It always seems to be portrayed that all Palestinians practice Islam.  (Thanks network news!)  She explained to us that religious faith is listed on identification papers.  I asked what would happen if a person doesn’t believe in anything?  She answered that it isn’t possible to have a choice of “no religion.”  For the sake of profiling, if the person selects none, they are by default listed as the same faith as their parents.

Salwa was willing to answer our questions about day to day life under occupation in The West Bank.  Let’s begin the recap of the day…

Rachel’s Crossing – Israeli Check-Point

We crossed from Jerusalem at Rachel’s Crossing.  This is the closest crossing to Bethlehem, Nativity Square, and some of the churches and monasteries we wanted to see.

There is a stark contrast between the Israeli side and the Palestinian side.  In a conflicted way, I was loving the art on the wall.

Orthodox Monasteries

We arranged to visit the Mar Saba Monastery in the Kidron Valley, and St George’s Monastery in Wadi Qelt, as well as the Monastery of the Temptation in Jericho.  All three are Greek Orthodox Monasteries.  Salwa actually thought we were Orthodox because we wanted to see them.  That’s funny!  FYI:  As females, Salwa and I weren’t allowed into Mar Saba Monastery.  We waited outside while a young kid came out to offer us water and cookies.

Jericho

Jericho is thought to be the world’s lowest lying,  oldest, continually inhabited city.  It is approximately 850 feet below Sea Level. There have been archaeological evidence of settlements up to 10,000BC. That’s pre-pottery folks!  Another fun fact–Jericho has the World Record for the longest cable car below Sea Level.  We stopped in Jericho for lunch which included Knafeh, a traditional Palestinian desert.

Manger Square, Bethlehem
UNESCO Designation
UNESCO Designation, Church of the Nativity Bethlehem

The Church of the Nativity in Bethlehem is traditionally thought to be the birthplace of Jesus.  As of 2012, the basilica is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  We visited the Grotto of the Nativity, and saw the 14 pointed silver star that marks the spot of Jesus’ birth.  Unlucky for you, the photos were a blur.  We were being rushed by a crowd, and Salwa was being shushed by one of the Orthodox Monks.  (She said he usually gives her a hard time for being too sassy  when she’s there.)

The Wall

I started this entry with photos of the Wall, it is called a Security Fence, a  Separation Fence, an Anti-Terrorism Wall, a Racial Segregation Wall and an Apartheid Wall.   Prior to even planning a trip to Israel, I saw a news story about the wall and wanted more information.  A couple of the books that I found helpful were  A Wall in Palestine and Behind the Wall: Life, Love and Struggle in Palestine.   There are so many awful, infuriating stories to be told.  Stories of separation, resilience, desperation, and strength of spirit.

I had been asking Salwa a lot of questions about the wall and living under occupation.  She actually stopped the car, started talking to a man who graciously invited us into his home so that we could see how construction of the wall affected his family. It was heart-breaking!  Here is what we saw from his balcony.

Essentially, the wall serves to protect one side, and imprison another.  Courtesy of googling “effectiveness of the separation barrier” Israeli statistics say that between 2000 and 2003 there were 73 suicide bomber attacks, and from 2003 to 2006 there were only 12.  With 521 attacks stopped during that same period.    That’s A LOT.

Both sides are being driven to desperation.  There has to be a better way.
~j

Welcome Back Me!

Wow…nothing like a 6 month hiatus from writing.  Welcome back to the interwebs to me! Slowly but surely I will fill in all of the New Zealand entries.  I promise!  For now, here’s an update…
 
We’ve been planning our next trip for a very long time, and have finally been discussing it publicly, at work etc.  For the next adventure we’re off to Jordan, Israel, and the West Bank.  This has received a lot of mixed reactions when we tell people.  Most wonder, “Why would you want to go there?!?!”  Why WOULDN’T I want to go there?!?  To be fortunate enough to be able to travel to countries rich with that much history and global/religious significance–I’d be crazy to say no! 
 
Sure, at first I was a little hesitant.  Nothing good is ever said on the news about Gaza and Israeli conflict.  And, yes, traveling to the “Middle East” might not be a first time travel destination, or for someone who is wary, or who has only experienced all-inclusive, or cruise ship travel, but I don’t think it will be any different than any other travel for us.  We will be meeting people, seeing sights, experiencing culture and foods that are new and different, taking photos and enjoying life.  Yes, we’ll be in a more potentially volatile area than we’ve been in before, but that doesn’t mean there will be issues.  Just because there were riots in Vancouver, BC–would that prevent you from going there?
 
That said, I will note, we hadn’t planned on the Arab Spring for our vacation in the Arab spring.  If you’ve been watching the news (Not local, but international.  We like RT.) you’ll see that there has been some conflict going on recently.  FYI: This has not increased travel warnings from our government, nor have these warnings surpassed the levels for countries we have already visited without issue (ie: Cambodia.)
 
For the amazing sites and history alone, I’d do this trip in a heartbeat.  I’ll be able to add several more UNESCO sites to the tally.  Petra (where one of the Indiana Jones movies was filmed), Haifa’s Baha’i Gardens, the Old City of Acre, the White City of Tel Aviv and the fortress at Masada are all on the itinerary.  Besides the markets and souks, I’m especially interested in the religious sites and places of worship.  Though neither of us is religious or church-going, we’ve been raised with Christian holiday traditions in a predominantly Christian country–celebrating Christmas, Easter etc, so it will be interesting to see fervent worship on a large scale that is Jewish, Muslim, Baha’i and Christian.  Even if one was visiting Jerusalem as an atheist, one couldn’t deny that the religious prophets existed as men.   To be in places where people so significant to such a large portion of the global population has been is kind of awe inspiring. For example, being able to walk the Via Dolorosa is pretty profound.
 
I should be writing more.  The photos have been inspiring, and I’ve read a ton of travel books.  Of course, Google, Trip Advisor and youtube had all been awesome too.  Everything is planned and mostly paid for; now we just have to wait for take off.
 
You know all those things you wanted to do?  You should go do them.