From Gibraltar and La Linea, we made our way to Seville in Southern Spain. I really, really enjoyed the city. The architecture is fantastic. Being third largest church in the world, the Seville Cathedral is opulent to say the least. As part of UNESCO World Heritage site with the Real Alcázar and the Arvhivo de Indias, it was definitely on my radar. The Alcázar has some of most beautiful and intricate tile work I’ve ever seen. They’re fantastic!
Here are some photos from our time in Seville:
La Giralda, the bell tower of the Seville Cathedral, is crowned with a bronze weathervane statue of Faith.
View of the Cathedral from the bell tower.
View of Seville from the bell tower
The Tomb of Christopher Columbus, Seville Cathedral
Replica of La Giralda in front of the Seville Cathedral
Peacock – we found this guy just walking along
Plaza d’España, Seville
Azulejos tile work at the Real Alcázar
Fancy Tile Work, Real Alcázar
Fancy Tile Work, Real Alcázar
Fancy Tile Work, Real Alcázar
Horseshoe arches of the Ambassadors’ Hall, Real Alcázar
Patio de las Muñecas, The Patio of the Dolls, Real Alcázar
Archways, Real Alcázar
Patio de las Doncellas, The Patio of the Maidens, Real Alcázar
Gardens of the Real Alcázar
Archways, Real Alcázar
Fancy Tile Work, Real Alcázar
UNESCO Designation, Real Alcázar
Fancy Tile Work, Real Alcázar
The Moorish minaret turned bell tower, La Giralda, Seville Cathedral
Our day at the Alhambra started at the crack of dawn as many on our vacations do. We walked a few blocks, then took a little bus to the entrance gate. By the time we arrived we were already in a line a few dozen people long.
There are timed entrances on portions of the ticket so that areas of The Alhambra aren’t overrun. According to everything we’d read, the best times to visit are earliest and latest of the day. The earliest time still available made the most sense to us so we would have more time to explore before closing.
Very Brief History
Construction on the castle/fortress started in 889, and was part of the Nasrid dynasty by the mid-11th century. Much of the construction with the absolutely gorgeous Islamic architecture and design took place in the 1300’s.
Catholic monarchs destroyed a portion of the complex and built the Palace of Charles V in the early 1500’s. Eventually the site was abandoned, fell into disrepair, and was being used by squatters until it was rediscovered in the 19th century.
The Alcazaba & Arms Square
The Alcazaba is the oldest part of the Alhambra. With the ramparts and many towers, these areas would have been used as a fortress and weapons storage during times of siege. The bell on the Watch Tower, or Torre de la Vela, was used as a signal danger, or to tell workers in the valley below the different times they had to carry out certain tasks such as watering fields.
Nowadays, the single ladies like the bell! Tradition says that every young, single, woman who rings the bell on January 2nd will be married by the end of the year.
The Nasrid Palaces
Reflecting in the reflecting pool.
The Nasrid Palaces were designed with a theme of ‘paradise on earth.’ The columns, arches, fountains and reflecting pools create just the right atmosphere.
Several different areas make up the Nasrid Palaces. All of the rooms are impressive–from the baths to the court yards, to the harem, they’re extraordinary.
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The walls are intricately carved, covered in Arabic inscriptions or ornate geometric tiled patterns. Kudos to the people who made these designs! I can’t even begin to imagine the amount of effort and concentration it would take to make something so tiny and delicate on such a HUGE scale.
And, it isn’t just the walls that are gorgeous, the ceilings are just as awesome. The muqarnas would have taken forever to design and carve. (Muqarnas are the fanciful stalactite-like accents of Islamic architecture.)
The Muqarna filled ceiling of the Sala de los Abencerrajes, The Alhambra
I had never seen anything quite like the Sala de los Abencerrajes. A photo can’t do the rooftop justice. Even today, in its faded state the carving is crazy beautiful. You can see chips and flecks of colour through-out. Just try to picture what that would look like colorized!
The Generalife
The Nasrid Kings used the Generalife as an escape from palace life. As a “country estate” the gardens and ponds are surrounded by perfectly manicured hedges, flowers, and orchard-like settings. I was especially excited about the Pomegranate trees! We do not see those growing in Canada that’s for sure. And, I totally nerded out and took pictures of them too. Classic tourist style!
Pomegranate Tree
Flower, Generalife, Granada
The Patio de la Acequia, Generalife
Washington Irving lived at the Alhambra for a while
Pomegranate Tree, Generalife
UNESCO Designation
As a historical complex with beautiful gardens and architectural intrigue at every corner, and as a UNESCO World Heritage site, the Alhambra is an obvious must on any visit to Granada. Check it out for yourself, you won’t be disappointed.
We have been to some magnificent churches in our travels–the iconic Sagrada Familia is no exception. As the most visited Barcelona attraction, there was no way we would miss seeing to this unfinished masterpiece. On our very first night of exploratory wanderings in Barcelona, we found ourselves at the Basilica.
Construction on the church started in 1882. Antoni Gaudí took over the project in 1883, and continued working tirelessly on the church until his death in 1926.
Gaudí by Subirachs
In 1936, a group of anarchists destroyed and burned the vast majority of Gaudí’s workshop and plans for the church. Work halted on the project for a period of time, and resumed again in the early 1950’s. As with anything in the public eye, there are opponents to the project who claim the intentions of Gaudí are not being honoured, and the at the project has become an abomination of his original ideas.
Even so, construction is still taking place over 130 years later by a dedicated group of architects. Completion of the Sagrada Familia is anticipated for 2026. This video shows what the completed Basilica will look like. (My apologies for the über-cheesy music.)
Two facades of the church have been completed, the Nativity Façade and the Passion Façade. The third, the Glory Façade, is yet to be completed. Gaudí focused on the Nativity Façade, which is atypical of building a church, working on the exterior before the interior main structure is completed. He knew that others would be inspired by the beauty of the building, and continue construction after he had passed.
The Nativity Façade
The Nativity Façade, completed in 1905, was the only side close to completion in Gaudí’s lifetime.
The Nativity Facade, Sagrada Familia
From the three doors that represent faith, hope and charity to the cypress, the tree of life and universal sign of welcome, the whole façade is a hymn to the joy of creation for the birth of Jesus which is expressed in each and every detail.
From: Sagrada Familia informative plaque
No single picture could do this façade justice. The simultaneous enormity and intricate minutiae of Gaudí’s work make that an impossible task.
There are three entrances on this northeast side of the church representing Faith, Hope and Charity. This side of the church is lavishly decorated, and crammed full of symbolism.
The carved stone appears to be bursting with fresh blooms and new leaves, symbolic of the Nativity–life and joy and newness. Every little detail has been added with purpose. For example, even the bunches of grapes and ears of wheat, seemingly innocuous ornamentation, symbolize the Eucharist.
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Their upper parts are decorated with mosaics spelling out ‘Sanctus, Sanctus, Sanctus, Hosanna in Excelsis, Amen, Alleluia’. Asked why he lavished so much care on the tops of the spires, which no one would see from close up, Gaudí answered: ‘The angels will see them.
The towers are decorated with glittering glass letters, and the spires are topped with adorned with mosaics of Murano glass.
The Passion Façade
The two different design styles of the Nativity and the Passion are disparate, yet they fit together well. The ornate designs of the Nativity story are contrasted by the stark nature of the Passion Façade. This southwest side has been the cause of some controversy amongst Catalans. The sculptor, Joseph Maria Subirachs, used a much more angular approach than Gaudí’s typical flowing style. Subirachs also left crucified Jesus totally nude. (Oh the horrors! Hah!) But, this is a sore spot for many. I really liked the sculptures, and how they represent the Stations of the Cross.
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Subirachs pays tribute to Gaudí’s style with the shape of the Soldier’s helmets similar to the chimneys of Casa Milà. Also, the figure far left of the photo of Veronica holding her veil has the same profile as the sculpture of Gaudí by Subirachs.
The doors of the Passion Façade, also done by Subirachs, are the words of the gospels of Matthew and John cast in over 8000 bronze letters. The door contains a miniature of the cryptogram seen in the photo of Judas’ betrayal of Jesus.
The upper portion of the bronze doors of the Passion Façade
The Crypyogram by Joseph Maria Subirachs
Bronze door of the Passion Façade
Cryptogram combinations
The cryptogram has multiple combinations of numbers that always add up to 33, the age of Christ in the moment of this death. There are two numbers repeated 10 and 14; if they are added together the sum is 48, the same result as the addition of the letters INRI (Iesus Nazarenus, Rex Iudaeorum) according to the numerical order of the Latin alphabet.
The Interior
Beautiful isn’t it?
Walking into the Sagrada Familia is like being transported into a fanciful forest. The pillars, and the way the light filters through the stained glass windows is absolutely gorgeous. Everything has designed with the inspiration of nature.
The pillars are of different shapes and designs, as well as several different types of stone. The combined effect is otherworldly. A lot of this portion of the interior was completed as recently as 2010.
The stained-glass windows are reminiscent of watercolor paintings, and, in fact, are designed as watercolor paintings first by artist Joan Vila Grau before they are created in glass. He explained his intentions as:
For me it was necessary to create an atmosphere, a grand symphony of colour and light. When you go into a Gothic church, a cathedral or a monastery, the first thing you feel is the atmosphere. After that you are aware that there are windows of different colours and thematic representations. But what is important, before everything else, is the atmosphere that is created by the colours – and if the windows have a theme – well why not? But it is not necessary. In the windows of the Sagrada Família there is no figurative iconography but an atmosphere has been created. from: http:www.vidimus.org
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Since returning home, we’ve watched the documentary “Sagrada: The Mystery of Creation”. The film is a totally nerdy, but worth watching if you’re in for a slow-moving, yet informative couple of hours. I left with a feeling of confidence that the artists involved with the Sagrada Familia and its completion have embodied the essence of Gaudí’s vision, and are continuing to honor his life’s work right through to completion.
The Sagrada Familia, a UNESCO World Heritage site, as part of the Works of Antoni Gaudí, since 1984 is definitely worth visiting if you ever find yourself in Barcelona. Though the line ups are long, and some of the tower tours may be canceled due to inclement weather, it is well worth it. Save yourself time, and use the online booking options, and then plan to be awed. You won’t regret it!
Not sounding like a carbon copy becomes difficult when writing about a European destination. Everything has been said a million times. But here goes…
Our hotel, just off of Passeig de Gracia, was close to metro stations with simple connections to other stations in the city. When selecting accommodation there are three rules – location, location, location! Besides, who doesn’t love a great metro system?
from: www.tmb.cat/img/genplano.pdf
Even better than metro convenience, we were within walking distance of a lot of fanciful buildings. Barcelona has some of the most spectacular architecture!
Passeig de Gracia is home to the “Illa de la Discordia“, a city block with some of Barcelona’s most famous Modernista houses built side by side. We walked past Gaudí’s Casa Batlló on the Block of Discord everyday.
Josep Puig i Cadafalch’s Casa Amatller beside Gaudí’s Casa Batlló
After we checked-in to the hotel, we made our way to the Arc de Triomf, and the Parc de la Cuitadella. The Parc has a fountain by Josep Fontserè which was designed after the Trevi Fountain in Rome. Seems a bit of a stretch; Fontserè’s fountain is not as impressive.
Josep Vilaseca i Casanovas’ Arc de Triomf
The Fountain in the Parc de la Ciutadella
The Lake in Parc de la Ciutadella
Our first night was also our first experience with just how many people we would be dealing with while trying to navigate the sights. One of the greatest things about Barcelona is that there is ALWAYS a ton of street traffic–people walking around, eating tapas or even dinner well into the late hours. (10pm is o.k. for dinner here.) And then, those late hours turn into the wee hours of bar revelers.
People are out and about LATE. It’s fantastic! However, zillions of tourists were taking in the “Magic Fountain” show. We happened upon the show by chance, watching it was fine, but missing it wouldn’t have bothered me one bit.
National Museum of Art of Catalunya illuminated
Zillions of tourists make their way to the “Magic Fountain” at Plaça d’Espagna
Zillions of tourists make their way to the “Magic Fountain” at Plaça d’Espagna
Plaça d’Espagna in the day time
I won’t even pretend to know the intricacies of the architectural style of modernism aka Art nouveau. Do you own research if you need to know! There are several architectural giants on the scene in Barcelona. Two whose work I admired most were Antoni Gaudí, and Lluís Domènech i Montaner.
Two monumental works, Gaudí’s Sagrada Familila and Domènech i Montaner’s Hospital de la Santa Creu i Sant Pau, bookend the quiet pedestrian street of Avinguda de Gaudí.
Sagrada Familia
Hospital de Santa Creu i Sant Pau
Gaudí
Gaudí used mixed media with his gorgeous creations of glass, wood, stone, brick, tile, wrought iron and bits of rubble. His nature inspired designs make the materials work together.
Seven Gaudí buildings share a UNESCO designation–Casa Vicens, the Nativity Façade, the Crypt of the Sagrada Familia, Casa Batlló, Casa Milà, Park Güell, Palacio Güell and the crypt in Colonia Güell. (I will save the Sagrada Familia for another entry entirely as that cathedral alone justly deserves.)
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Noticing all of the thoughtful, intricate details of Gaudí’s masterpieces would not be possible even with a lifetime of study. For the few hours we had to experience Gaudí’s work, his creativity was awe inspiring. Everything was as much about form as function, with beauty and industry combined into a liveable works of art.
Domènech i Montaner
Domènech i Montaner, who was once a professor to Gaudí, worked to create an iconic Catalan style of architecture. His designs feature curved lines, exposed brick work, mixed materials, mosaics, stained glass and ornate façades.
Two Domènech i Montaner buildings, the Hospital de la Santa Creu i Sant Pau and Palau de la Música Catalana share a UNESCO designation. We were able to visit quite a couple of his impressive buildings on our ramblings through the city.
Lluis Domènech I Montaner’s Hospital de la Santa Creu i de Sant Pau
Domènech i Montaner designed the hospital with the belief that patients would fare better with fresh air and nature. Corridors and service areas were hidden underground, and courtyards were filled with gardens to aid in recovery.
Lluís Domènech i Montaner’s Casa Fuster
Unfortunately, we weren’t able to visit the Palau de la Música. Even if we had, there would be no pictures to share as that building is a camera free zone. We did see Casa Fuster, which is now a functioning as a hotel.
The banners hanging from the building are for La Diada , or National Day of Catalonia. September 11, 2014 was a particularly important celebration, and referendum vote.
La Rambla
Walking on Miro! Joan Miro’s “Pla de l’Os”.
No trip to Barcelona would be complete without a stroll or two on La Rambla. The famous pedestrian-only street is a 1.2km feast for the senses.
People. Watching. Paradise.
An utter ZOO of tourists, and hoards of locals on La Diada were there for our viewing pleasure. Eliminate the gents selling annoying little “bird” noise makers, and you’d be golden!
Interesting cafés, boutiques, florists, a fun market, and crazy street performers and artists flank the boulevard. One of my favorite things was the mosaic by Joan Miró.
La Bouqueria Market
La Bouqueria Market
Fish at La Bouqueria Market
Fish at La Bouqueria Market
We weren’t out on La Rambla late, but have heard that it can get a little dark and twisty, with scams and prostitution problems. As with any area rife with tourists, the scams are there en force, and La Rambla is no exception to that rule.
Columbus Monument at Port Vell
We made our way from Plaça Cataluyna at the top, to the Columbus Monument at the lower end near the old port.
The top viewing “area” of Mirador de Colón = claustrophobic’s nightmare! Warning: DO NOT attempt if you can’t handle small spaces. We don’t, and it was a little ick feeling up there without the added phobia.
View of Port Vell from Mirador de Colon
View of Barcelona from Mirador de Colon
View of Barcelona from Mirador de Colon
Photos and view of the city from the tower, weren’t so spectacular, but the entrance fee was fairly cheap, maybe 4€? I’d say, “Not really worth it. Save your money for tapas instead!”
Wow, 2014 was a year of travel near and far. A year that was busy and fulfilling, was also a year of change for the site, though the migration to self-hosting is still not complete! Maintaining a writing focus, while working full-time (sometimes more than full-time), and managing a household is a struggle of a balancing act. Sometimes, it’s more about living the experience, than writing it all down for y’all. Sorry, but it’s true.
Looking back on all of the mini-trips, visitors and experiences we had over the year, I thought I’d put together a recap of sorts. So here it is folks, your 2014 Travel Retrospective.
WINTER
January was a month of lingering cough and cold that felt like it was never, ever going away! Finally, we were well enough to travel, and made it to Mexico to visit Andrew. The Mayan Riviera, though not normally my go to vacation scene, was a great little getaway. (You can read about it HERE.)
February was a quiet month for travel because we had visitors here for a sporting event. There was plenty of time for card games, snacking and catching up between their beloved curling games. (FYI: You couldn’t pay me to watch curling. It’s BORING!)
The Bombardier Dash 8-300 purrs like a kitten
March gave me the opportunity to go to Edmonton to visit Jessie. We spent a few days chatting, shopping, and touring some of the most hideous Dream Lottery homes ever built. Driving to Edmonton is always a laborious task, but well worth the scenery. However, for this trip, I hopped the 1 hour flight. SO. MUCH. BETTER. On the flight home, I connected with my sister-in-law and nephew in Calgary, and we were all able to fly home together. Little Ben flew like a champ. (His mom did too; anyone who can fly with a toddler deserves a prize!)
SPRING
April and May kept us closer to home. We had a couple of day trips to Vancouver & Kelowna. Vancouver is always a nice getaway even during spring showers. For a change we chose not to drive through the city, and take the Sky Train instead.
Thanks for the SkyTrain map Wikimedia commons!
I’ve LOVED the SkyTrain since Expo ’86. And, traveling like a tourist in your own backyard is kind of fun once in a while. We spent the day shopping with my Aunt; I purchased a fab little backpack that has been one of my favorite gear purchases this year.
Then, the most shocking event in the history of our friendship with Andrew occurred in June. HE. GOT. MARRIED! This from the guy who has been an opponent to marriage and monogamy for as long as I can remember, not that he’s for being single, unfaithful or promiscuous either, he’s just never been pepped up about marriage. Well, Andrew met his match in his wife, and we couldn’t be happier for them. We travelled to Golden for the festivities. Catching up with old friends and laughing until our sides hurt made for a super fun weekend.
SUMMER
Oddly, I visited the Columbia River Valley twice in less than 30 days. Once for the aforementioned impromptu wedding, and once for a “camping” trip with Jessie and her family for the first week of July. (Q: Is it still technically classified as camping if you’re sleeping in a double bed, have air conditioning and a DVD player?)
Fort Steele, BC
We “camped” near Radium Hot Springs, at Redstreak Provincial Campground. One of the days we drove through to Cranbrook and Kimberly. Along the way we stopped at Fort Steele, a heritage town with a sweet little steam engine train.
Seven Parks in the Canadian Rockies share a UNESCO designation. Driving through the beauty of Rogers Pass to the Burgess Shale, it’s easy to understand why.
My friend Stacey came home from Alberta in August, and it was nice to catch up with her for a quick visit. Jon and I stayed pretty close to home for the most part. We made a few trips to the Lake.
Seymour. She’s a beauty when she doesn’t smell like wet dog.
Lake days are always filled with long hours at the beach, way too many snacks, and pseudo-competitive card games–mix that up with some sun screen, and a couple of wet dogs, and you’ve got the full package. We brought our niece with us for one of the trips. She’s quite the car dancer. The kid has moves even while buckled into a car seat.
FALL
Our new little nephew was born the first week of September…while we were waiting for a flight in Toronto. Yep, we missed his arrival because we were traveling to Spain. Jon and I spent two weeks touring through Spain visiting some gorgeous historic sites. More on that adventure to come. Trust me, I’ll be very busy writing over the next couple months.
October was ridiculously busy month for me work wise. A co-worker was diagnosed with cancer, so we lost an integral member of the team while she left to focus on getting herself well. I missed our annual tradition of visiting the pumpkin patch. Jon was able to go, and had a great time with the kids. Later in the month, we were able to sneak away for an afternoon to visit the Adam’s River Salmon Run. Our niece and nephew were so excited to see all of the fish. We’ll have to make it an annual tradition too.
Adam’s River Salmon Run, BC
In November, Fazh decided to go to Denmark. He asked me to plan the trip about a week before he decided he was leaving. For so many reasons the task was nearly impossible! Through some divine intervention, I was able to find his Danish friend on the internet, and he ended up having a once in a lifetime trip. And now, Fazh too must focus on getting himself well.
December, while frazzling, has updated/reinforced my outlook that the “small stuff” shouldn’t even be a blip on the radar. There are so many more important ways to spend time than focusing on trivial matters.
That brings us back to January. Our newest nephew was born on the 2nd. Fortunately, we were in the same city for his arrival. At present we just wait to hear from surgeons, so that they get Fazh fixed up.
We’ve had so many wonderful adventures this year; Thanks to everyone who was a part of them.
This January we decided to go visit a friend who had been working as a SCUBA instructor in Playa Del Carmen, Mexico. So, with 2 days notice, we booked flights, and took off for the week to hang out on the Mayan Riviera.
Playa del Carmen is about 45 minutes away from Cancun. We easily hopped on the airport shuttle, and met our friend Andrew at the bus station on Quinta Avenida. (FYI: Quinta Avenida is one of the busiest most obnoxious shopping streets ever–more on that later!)
As neither of us are really “beach” people, we needed a plan to enjoy the most of our stay in the resort filled paradise. We quickly learned how to take the colectivo busses (5 pesos each) so we could travel to and from Andrew’s apartment. With three of us, traveling by car was a cheap convenient option for longer distances, so we decided to rent a car to explore some of the sites in the state of Quintana Roo.
CHICHÉN ITZÁ
UNESCO Designation at Chichen Itza
Chichen Itza is one of the New 7 Wonders of the World AND a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Lucky for us, these Mayan ruins were close enough to Playa Del Carmen that we were able to make a day trip to the site. We hopped in the car and quickly learned to spot the GIANT Mexican Speedbumps AKA “topes” along the way!
El Castillo, Kukulcan Pyramid – Chichen Itza Mexico
El Castillo, the iconic Kukulcan pyramid of the Yucatan, is definitely the main attraction of Chichen Itza. The structure has all sorts of astronomical importance for when and how the sun hits during equinoxes and solstices. Google it up if you’re interested.
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On the way from Chichen Itza back to our home base, we stopped in the sweet little colonial town of Valladolid. It would have been nice if we’d have had more time to explore all that the town had to offer as it was a super cute place.
People would have to sit face to face and have a conversation.
San Servacio Church, Valladolid
COBA
For our second day with the rental car, we decided to head to Coba. Coba was the largest and most powerful Mayan city before the rise of Chichen Itza. These Mayan Ruins also have the largest pyramid of the Yucatan Peninsula. As a visitor, I enjoyed the atmosphere of Coba much more than Chichen Itza. Though there were dozens more touts which is a definite draw back to any site, the pathways through the jungle, and the trees/shade made up for it.
The tallest pyramid on the Yucatan Peninsula.
La Iglesia, Coba
Maybe another time?
TULUM
Pelican – Tulum Beach
We made it to the beach at Tulum, but due to time constraints missed visiting these ruins. After having seen the two previous archeological sites, we weren’t super disappointed at missing Tulum. The beach itself was beautiful. Such fine sand, almost like confectionary sugar, and some pelicans bobbing along on the waves made me a happy gal.
The Caribbean Sea, Tulum
BEST OF THE REST
One of the many cruise ships plaguing the Cozumel coastline.
We were left with a few days to fill up, and I had heard great things about Cozumel from friends and coworkers. Cozumel is a short ferry ride from Playa del Carmen, and is supposed to be a fun way to spend the day.
SUCH A DISAPOINTMENT!
Cozumel is touts on steroids, and beyond that, it is horribly packed with cruise ship passengers. Visiting Cozumel was a huge waste of time and money. If you’re there for SCUBA, I’m sure you’d have a great time. We did not.
After the shit-show of Cozumel, I was certain Xcaret would be a horrible experience as well. We are not fans of zoos/aquariums in general. The reviews online were utterly horrendous! Fortunately, I was pleasantly surprised. For us, it was actually an alright facility.
Note: We did not participate in any of the water activities. If you’re into snorkeling or swimming with dolphins/sting rays feel free. That’s not my cup o’ tea. Guaranteed my opinion would have changed to the negative had I taken part in any of those activities.
Scarlet Macaw – Xcaret
We were able to see baby Sea Turtles at various ages as part of the Sea Turtle Conservation program. The Butterfly Garden was kind of neat. We saw dozens and dozens of birds, parrots, macaws, flamingos etc. Xcaret is part of conservation efforts for Scarlet Macaws.
Red Forehead Parrot – Xcaret
Flamingos at Xcaret
This vacation really was a different experience for us. Typically, we don’t stay in one city for more than 3 or 4 days, and we’ve never had a host or home to settle in. Being able to set a home base definitely made for a more enjoyable adventure in Mexico.
Mmmm tacos, before adding the delicious toppings.
We were able to experience several things that we would have missed out on otherwise–like using colectivos, going to the movies, eating at the same little taco stand, drinking Horchata, and even just relaxing in the evenings playing card games.
All in all it was an enjoyable winter interlude in Mexico. Thanks Andrew for the hospitality!
Jerusalem is Israel’s largest city by surface, but has less population than Tel Aviv. Overstating the historical significance of Jerusalem would be difficult. The Old City of Jerusalem is a UNESCO World Heritage site, and home to the cornerstones of three faiths, Judaism, Islam and Christianity with approximately 460,000 Jews, 225,000 Muslims, and 15,000 Christians.
Religion has the power to unite people with set rules, beliefs and traditions. A Christian, Muslim or Jew in the USA, Asia or Africa will all have relatively the same teachings based on their specific faiths. This creates a beautiful sense of community.
Church of the Holy Sepulchre
The Western Wall
The Dome of the Rock
On the other hand, Religion has as much, if not more, power to divide. There is discord both amongst, as well as within each of the three faiths and their sects. Catholics and Protestants, Shia and Sunni, Orthodox or Conservative etc. Consequently, there has been much violence amongst and within the three for as long as they’ve been practiced.
The Western Wall, The Dome of the Rock and The Church of the Holy Sepulchre, along with numerous synagogues, mosques, churches, their associated traditions and teachings have anchored these faiths to the city for millennia.
We’ve traveled the world in a secular way to some of the most holy places for many faiths. I’ve done my best to research, and experience aspects of these religions, and don’t intend offence to anyone reading. I’ll simply tell you what we saw in the Old City of Jerusalem.
The Western Wall – The Kotel
If you’ve ever seen a travel show about Jerusalem, you’ve seen the Western Wall with the extraordinarily devout Jewish people rocking back and forth whilst praying or reciting the book of psalms. (Some visit the site daily to recite the entire book.) The Prayer Plaza is a site of pilgrimage for Jews and non-Jews world-wide.
The Western Wall – Jerusalem
Visitors tuck slips of paper with prayers and requests into the wall in hopes that they’ll be answered. Tradition says a person who goes to the Western Wall, and prays for 1 request for 40 consecutive days will have that request granted. FYI: You can even sign up on-line to have someone make the 40 days of prayer for you by proxy, for a fee of course!
But, why is it more effective to pray at the Western Wall than anywhere else?!? What’s wrong with praying at a neighbourhood synagogue, home, etc.? Couldn’t the person just make the request from Albuquerque if needed? The answer can be sweetly summed up with a quick Google search for some Rabbinical wisdom.
…although G‑d is everywhere, His light shines stronger in some places than in others. He compares this to the human body: You are everywhere in your body, yet you are far more conscious of your mind than of your toes. So too, in the universe that G‑d created, there are places, times and states of being where we are able to be more aware of Him—and it is from those places/times/states that our prayers can fly best.
We arrived in Jerusalem during Jewish holiday of Shavuot, and saw thousands of people making their way to the Wall. The assortment of religious attire is fascinating! Fuzzy fur hats, long woolen coats, knotted strings on shirt corners, tiny boxes tied to the top of the head, the list goes on. Check out the Tefellin, the Tallit, the Shtreimel, and why they are customary to some, but not others.
Families making their way to the Western Wall for Shavuot
Jewish women also have specific dress codes with black being the color of choice for most, with very modest hemlines and collars. Most had their hair covered as is mandatory for married Orthodox women. We did not notice any women wearing pants.
The Bar Mitzvah celebrations we saw were super fun, but also upsetting. The area is segregated into men’s and women’s prayer sections, so a mother isn’t able to attend her own son’s Bar Mitzvah celebration, but has to watch from behind a fence. Though tradition, this was kind of unfortunate.
One of the many Bar Mitzvah celebrations we saw approaching the Western Wall Plaza
The ancient, 2,000-year-old stones of the Western Wall have witnessed the Jewish people’s birth, exile, and redemption. This is where the Jewish nation’s past mingles with its hopes for the future.
Outside of Temple Mount, the Western Wall is the most sacred site for the Jewish faith. What we see today is a remnant of the western retaining wall of the Second Temple built by Herod the Great. Although, there is much more of the wall visible beneath the surface which we were able to see.
We did the tour of the Kotel or Western Wall tunnels. If you’re going to Jerusalem, make sure to pre-book a time for this tour as it is well worth the visit. The Western Wall is a captivating and bewildering piece of the religious significance in Jerusalem.
The Dome of the Rock
The Dome of the Rock, Jerusalem
This shining dome pictured above the Western Wall is an iconic symbol of the Old City of Jerusalem. The glittering golden dome was not always golden; it was refinished in the early ’90’s to its current state. The dome is only a small part of the beauty of the building. The Islamic art covering the exterior is phenomenal.
In addition to the Dome of the Rock, The Dome of the Chain and the Al-Aqsa Mosque are atop the site. Muslims believe the “Rock” is the spot that Muhammad visited on his Night Journey, and the al-Aqsa Mosque is the spot from which Muhammad ascended to Heaven with the angel Gabriel to pray with other prophets.
Ablutions station, Dome of the Rock, Jerusalem
Dome of the Chain, Jerusalem
Exterior, Dome of the Rock, Jerusalem
Dome of the Rock, Jerusalem
As the third holiest site in Islam, The Dome of the Rock is obviously an important place of worship. Unfortunately, due to conflict, Israeli police restrict the access of Muslim Palestinians to the site. Men from the West Bank must be over 35 in order to apply for a permit to visit the site, and even then they are typically restricted to access on Muslim holidays only.
As non-Muslims, we weren’t permitted to enter either of the mosques, but we were able to tour the exteriors and grounds freely. On our return to Canada, a few people asked why we didn’t just say we were Muslim and go into the mosque. Well…not only would that be dishonest, but also pretty obvious that we’re not Muslim through not knowing mosque customs or behaviour etc enough to pass muster.
The other huge reason is that faking isn’t really an option when officials ask visitors to quote passages of the Qur’an in Arabic at the entrance. I have only mastered a few basic Arabic phrases, and I’m sure basic greetings, “a man and a boat,” or, “a girl and a bicycle,” don’t cut it!
Holy of Holies warning – Temple Mount
This Dome is also atop the holiest site on earth (The Holy of Holies) for Judaism, which Jewish Law bans Jews from visiting. The Dome covers the Foundation Stone, believed by Jews to be the first part of the earth to come into existence, and the spot where God gathered earth to create Adam. Jews also believe the rock is the foundation for the Ark of the Covenant.
The Dome of the Rock is a flash point for tension. The Friday that we toured the Mount of Olives, there was a scuffle/riot/police situation going on at the Temple Mount.
Recently, I read that the Temple Mount has been temporarily closed to visitors, and that the age minimum of worshippers from the West Bank was raised from 35 to 50 years. Clearly, there is no constancy or certainty of access which really is unfortunate.
The Church of the Holy Sepulchre
The holiest place in Christendom is The Church of the Holy Sepulchre. Christians believe the church is the site of the crucifixion, burial and resurrection of Jesus.
The Holy Sepulchre Church, Jerusalem
The Holy Sepulchre is nothing fanciful outside. The exterior is blandly nondescript. Oddly enough, the interior an utter hodge podge of decorative styles inside from highly ornate to completely run down and fire damaged.
Fire damaged Syrian Orthodox Chapel
Greek Orthodox Catholicon Dome
Crusader crosses, St Helen’s Chapel stairway
At the time of the Crusades, there were three primary denominations appointed to care for the church, Greek Orthodox, Armenian Apostolic and Roman Catholic Churches. Since then, there are Coptic Orthodox, Ethiopian Orthodox and Syrian Orthodox churches and shrines within and around the Holy Sepulchre.
A schedule has been made to regulate times and places of worship for each sect. Since 1192, the keys of the Holy Sepulchre were entrusted to a Muslim family, as none of the factions could agree on who should hold the key for fear of limiting the others’ access. A whole other kind of conflict exists at this holy place!
Eleven monks – seven of them Ethiopian, four Egyptian – were hurt in the violence which followed as the rivals hurled stones, iron bars and chairs at each other.
For example, a 2002 scuffle between the Ethiopian Orthodox Church and the Coptic Church of Egypt that resulted in serious injuries. And this, all because the Ethiopians objected to a Coptic Monk moving his chair a mere 8 inches in an attempt to find shade on a stifling summer day.
It probably doesn’t help that in 1970, the Ethiopians changed the locks on the rooftop chapel while the Coptics were attending midnight prayers, which is why the Coptic Monk was sitting watch/staking claim to the chapel in the first place. The behaviour is mind-boggling!
Clearly, they’re a ridiculously territorial passionate bunch at the Holy Sepulchre, and any violation on boundaries can bring on fisticuffs. I don’t think this video shows the ethic of reciprocity that is supposed to be embodied by the Golden Rule.
Nothing represents the absurdity of the discord quite as well as The Immovable Ladder. This little cedar ladder has been the source of conflict for over a century. Due to Church governance, no cleric of any of the orders may move or rearrange property without the consent of all of the other 5 orders.
No agreement can be made on who has the right to move the ladder. To maintain status quo, no one dares touch it. Yes, folks, that’s a 150-year-old argument about a ladder! (FYI: You can see it under the right window in the photo of the church above)
We didn’t see any of this conflict during our visit to this church. We did wait with hundreds of pilgrims (mostly Russian and Ethiopian) to visit Jesus’ tomb. The group in front of us was chanting and singing while waiting. The zombie drone-like chanting was FREAKY, but the singing was pretty.
The tomb, the actual Holy Sepulchre, is the last stop on the Via Dolorosa, a walk following the 14 Stations of the Cross believed to trace Christ’s footsteps to the crucifixion.
The Via Dolorosa
We walked the Via Dolorosa in a round about way while exploring the Souk. Some of the stations were very difficult to find. Scholars doubt the path Jesus took was anywhere near this current path. Through many centuries, they’ve been created, venerated and become fact to the faithful.
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We visited stations 10-13 inside the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, but it wasn’t always possible/polite to photograph. For example, there was a line to visit Golgotha. Stopping to photograph and hold up legit pilgrims would have been obnoxious.
The Old City of Jerusalem, and the little we learned about traditions and religious practices was incredibly fascinating, frustrating and a little frightening at the same time. The fervour of worship was unlike anything I’ve ever seen.
Faith, rather than fanaticism, entwined with tolerance would make for a much more peaceful region. Here’s hoping.
Given the most recent Israeli/Gaza conflict, some back ground information is probably critical. Let’s face it, Israel and the Middle East don’t get a lot of great press when it comes to safety and security. Due to lack of interest, global awareness or even opportunity, some people don’t have any knowledge of WHY the conflict even exists. Here is a very brief explanation:
While I can’t claim to be an expert in international politics in any way, I can tell you what we saw. For background, we visited the West Bank–not Gaza. There is a difference! We crossed at a pedestrian only checkpoint, as most are, so we either had to rent a car, or hire a guide with a vehicle. Navigating the road restrictions was more than we wanted to bargain for by ourselves, and we were forbidden from driving our rental car in the West Bank. As a result, we hired a guide for the day.
There are 3 areas, A, B and C. A is controlled by PNA, B is patrolled by PNA, but enforced by IDF and C is IDF.
Most news footage of the Middle East is typically of missiles, rubble, and agonizing grief. Mainstream media does more to misinform than it does to enlighten when it comes to Israel/Palestine conflict, and the portrayal of the people living in these areas. I didn’t feel unsafe in any way where we were. There was one freaky road sign, that Salwa explained to us. Israeli Defence Forces (IDF)and Palestinian National Authority (PNA) control three different areas, A, B and C, in the West Bank. FYI: Hamas controls Gaza. HUGE difference. Google it if you like.
Here is some information about our guide, Salwa, an actual human beingfrom Palestine. Salwa is a Palestinian woman, who was born in Colombia. She grew up the West Bank, and now lives with her husband and daughters near Beit Jala. Her family lived in Detroit, MI for a while when her Palestinian husband was working there as a university professor. She’s a witty woman who speaks several languages. During the course of the day she spoke English, Arabic, French and Spanish.
Salwa is a Catholic, not a Muslim. It always seems to be portrayed that all Palestinians practice Islam. (Thanks network news!) She explained to us that religious faith is listed on identification papers. I asked what would happen if a person doesn’t believe in anything? She answered that it isn’t possible to have a choice of “no religion.” For the sake of profiling, if the person selects none, they are by default listed as the same faith as their parents.
Salwa was willing to answer our questions about day to day life under occupation in The West Bank. Let’s begin the recap of the day…
Rachel’s Crossing – Israeli Check-Point
We crossed from Jerusalem at Rachel’s Crossing. This is the closest crossing to Bethlehem, Nativity Square, and some of the churches and monasteries we wanted to see.
Rachel’s Tomb Crossing, Israeli Side
Rachel’s Tomb Crossing, Palestinian Side
Rachel’s Tomb Crossing, Palestinian Side
Rachel’s Tomb Crossing, Palestinian Side
Rachel’s Tomb Crossing, Palestinian Side
There is a stark contrast between the Israeli side and the Palestinian side. In a conflicted way, I was loving the art on the wall.
Orthodox Monasteries
We arranged to visit the Mar Saba Monastery in the Kidron Valley, and St George’s Monastery in Wadi Qelt, as well as the Monastery of the Temptation in Jericho. All three are Greek Orthodox Monasteries. Salwa actually thought we were Orthodox because we wanted to see them. That’s funny! FYI: As females, Salwa and I weren’t allowed into Mar Saba Monastery. We waited outside while a young kid came out to offer us water and cookies.
Mar Saba Monastery, Kidron Valley The West Bank
Female Pilgrims outside Mar Saba Monastery
Kidron Valley The West Bank
St George’s Monastery Wadi Qelt, The West Bank
St George’s Monastery Wadi Qelt, The West Bank
Living quarters, Mount of Temptation, Jericho
Living quarters, Mount of Temptation, Jericho
Jericho
Jericho is thought to be the world’s lowest lying, oldest, continually inhabited city. It is approximately 850 feet below Sea Level. There have been archaeological evidence of settlements up to 10,000BC. That’s pre-pottery folks! Another fun fact–Jericho has the World Record for the longest cable car below Sea Level. We stopped in Jericho for lunch which included Knafeh, a traditional Palestinian desert.
Jericho Cable Car
Sea Level, The West Bank
Manger Square, Bethlehem
UNESCO Designation, Church of the Nativity Bethlehem
The Church of the Nativity in Bethlehem is traditionally thought to be the birthplace of Jesus. As of 2012, the basilica is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. We visited the Grotto of the Nativity, and saw the 14 pointed silver star that marks the spot of Jesus’ birth. Unlucky for you, the photos were a blur. We were being rushed by a crowd, and Salwa was being shushed by one of the Orthodox Monks. (She said he usually gives her a hard time for being too sassy when she’s there.)
Mosaic Floor, Church of the Nativity
Mosaic Floor, Church of the Nativity
The Wall
I started this entry with photos of the Wall, it is called a Security Fence, a Separation Fence, an Anti-Terrorism Wall, a Racial Segregation Wall and an Apartheid Wall. Prior to even planning a trip to Israel, I saw a news story about the wall and wanted more information. A couple of the books that I found helpful were A Wall in Palestine and Behind the Wall: Life, Love and Struggle in Palestine. There are so many awful, infuriating stories to be told. Stories of separation, resilience, desperation, and strength of spirit.
I had been asking Salwa a lot of questions about the wall and living under occupation. She actually stopped the car, started talking to a man who graciously invited us into his home so that we could see how construction of the wall affected his family. It was heart-breaking! Here is what we saw from his balcony.
The wall protecting Route 60 – Israeli Only highway through the West Bank
The view from their deck. Where the wire fence is currently is where the wall was supposed to be built–right over the family’s tiny garden that is in ruins now.
This portion protects the Israeli Only highway through the West Bank
Essentially, the wall serves to protect one side, and imprison another. Courtesy of googling “effectiveness of the separation barrier” Israeli statistics say that between 2000 and 2003 there were 73 suicide bomber attacks, and from 2003 to 2006 there were only 12. With 521 attacks stopped during that same period. That’s A LOT.
Both sides are being driven to desperation. There has to be a better way.
~j
Haifa, in Northern Israel, is home to the Bahá’í Gardens. The Garden houses the Shrine of the Bab which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and one of the most holy places for the Bahá’í religion.
Because I’m a total nerd, I researched the Bahá’í faith prior to visiting the centre. In a nut shell, the religion is monotheistic, so there is one all-powerful God. Bahá’ís emphasize a spiritual unity of all people. One of the main beliefs is that no religion has a monopoly on the truth. They believe that all are true at the spiritual core, but have diverged through their social teachings. Bahá’ís seek to combine all teaching of the holy men into one tidy package.
The gardens were spectacular. They truly are some of most gorgeously manicured gardens I’ve ever seen. Viewed from the base of the gardens, or from the top of Mt. Carmel, they’re beautiful.
Masada is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and one of Israel’s most popular attractions. For our first night in Israel, we stayed at the Masada Youth Hostel and Guest House. FYI: The Hostels in Israel are like no other. This place was more like a convention centre! We visited the ruins of this mountaintop fortress that overlooks the banks of the Dead Sea.
There is a cable car to get to the top of Masada. (There is also a switch-back pathway to the top, but it looked BRUTAL, and it was HOT in the desert!) Masada has the ruins of one of the palaces of Herod the Great at the top of the mesa, as well as the remains of Roman camps at the base of the fortified hill.
Israeli Flag Masada Israel
View of the Dead Sea from Masada
View of the Dead Sea from Masada Israel
Columbarium to hold urns of ashes, Masada Israel
Archway ruins Masada
I didn’t know much about the history of Masada prior to visiting, and actually found the site rather informative. In 73AD Masada had been under Roman siege for two years as one of the last Jewish strongholds when it was finally taken. Rather than succumb to Roman rule and slavery, the Jews of Masada chose to commit mass suicide.
Judaism prohibits suicide, so the men of Masada drew names, and killed each other down to the last man who would commit suicide. There was a whole exhibit showing pieces of the clay shards with names found on the site. Almost 1000 people were killed.
The synagogue at the top of Masada is thought to be one of the oldest in Israel. While we were at the site, there was a group singing in the synagogue. It was simultaneously eerie and beautiful.
From Masada we made our way to the Tiberias. Stay tuned…
~j
Adventures of a couple seeing the world 2 weeks at a time.
Two monumental works, Gaudí’s Sagrada Familila and Domènech i Montaner’s Hospital de la Santa Creu i Sant Pau, bookend the quiet pedestrian street of Avinguda de Gaudí.
Haifa, in Northern Israel, is home to the Bahá’í Gardens. The Garden houses the Shrine of the Bab which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and one of the most holy places for the Bahá’í religion.
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