Tag Archives: Spain

Granada: The Alhambra

Granada Street lights
But it still looks like night-time?!

Our day at the Alhambra started at the crack of dawn as many on our vacations do.  We walked a few blocks, then took a little bus to the entrance gate.  By the time we arrived we were already in a line a few dozen people long.

There are timed entrances on portions of the ticket so that areas of The Alhambra aren’t overrun.   According to everything we’d read, the best times to visit are earliest and latest of the day. The earliest time still available made the most sense to us so we would have more time to explore before closing.

Very Brief History

La AlhambraConstruction on the castle/fortress started in 889, and was part of the Nasrid dynasty by the mid-11th century.  Much of the construction with the absolutely gorgeous Islamic architecture and design took place in the 1300’s.

Catholic monarchs destroyed a portion of the complex and built the Palace of Charles V in the early 1500’s.  Eventually the site was abandoned, fell into disrepair, and was being used by squatters until it was rediscovered in the 19th century.

The Alcazaba & Arms Square

The Alcazaba is the oldest part of the Alhambra.  With the ramparts and many towers, these areas would have been used as a fortress and weapons storage during times of siege.  The bell on the Watch Tower, or Torre de la Vela, was used as a signal danger, or to tell workers in the valley below the different times they had to carry out certain tasks such as watering fields.

Nowadays, the single ladies like the bell!  Tradition says that every young, single, woman who rings the bell on January 2nd will be married by the end of the year.

The Nasrid Palaces
Pigeon, Alhambra, Granada
Reflecting in the reflecting pool.

The Nasrid Palaces were designed with a theme of ‘paradise on earth.’ The columns, arches, fountains and reflecting pools create just the right atmosphere.

Several different areas make up the Nasrid Palaces.  All of the rooms  are impressive–from the baths to the court yards, to the harem, they’re extraordinary.

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The walls are intricately carved, covered in Arabic inscriptions or ornate geometric tiled patterns.  Kudos to the people who made these designs!  I can’t even begin to imagine the amount of effort and concentration it would take to make something so tiny and delicate on such a HUGE scale.

And, it isn’t just the walls that are gorgeous, the ceilings are just as awesome.  The muqarnas would have taken forever to design and carve.  (Muqarnas are the fanciful stalactite-like accents of Islamic architecture.)

The Muqarna filled ceiling of the Sala de los Abencerrajes, The Alhambra
The Muqarna filled ceiling of the Sala de los Abencerrajes, The Alhambra

I had never seen anything quite like the Sala de los Abencerrajes.  A photo can’t do the rooftop justice.  Even today, in its faded state the carving is crazy beautiful.  You can see chips and flecks of colour through-out.  Just try to picture what that would look like colorized!

The Generalife

Lily Pads, GeneralifeThe Nasrid Kings used the Generalife as an escape from palace life.  As a “country estate”  the gardens and ponds are surrounded by perfectly manicured hedges, flowers,  and orchard-like settings.     I was especially excited about the Pomegranate trees!  We do not see those growing in Canada that’s for sure.  And, I totally nerded out and took pictures of them too.  Classic tourist style!

UNESCO Designation, The Alhambra
UNESCO Designation

As a historical complex with beautiful gardens and architectural intrigue at every corner, and as a UNESCO World Heritage site, the Alhambra is an obvious must on any visit to Granada.  Check it out for yourself, you won’t be disappointed.

Happy Travels
~j

 

 

Granada: Street Art

Street art, GranadaIf you’ve been reading along for a while now, you know that I love street art.  I’m not a fan of the scribbles and tags most people would consider graffiti–I want something with a little effort beyond petty vandalism with a sharpie.

Most people visit Granada for the Alhambra, and rightfully so.  I’m not suggesting you visit Granada solely for their impressive Street Art.  However, the juxtaposition of a palatial fortress of such grandiosity with the city’s appreciation for their own Street Art culture is pure aces.  Something typically viewed as a banal inconvenience, is actually seen as inspirational.  Well done Granada, and thank-you!

The artistry was refreshing smattering of small, silly or edgy pieces right through to large scale beautiful murals  We were lucky to see several walls by Granada’s very talented and most ubiquitous street artist is Raúl Ruiz in both Granada and Seville.  (More on that to come.)  For now enjoy these little bits and bobs from around Granada.

Barcelona: Exploring the Sagrada Familia

Sagrada Familia
Sagrada Familia at night

We have been to some magnificent churches in our travels–the iconic Sagrada Familia is no exception.  As the most visited Barcelona attraction, there was no way we would miss seeing to this unfinished masterpiece.  On our very first night of exploratory wanderings in Barcelona, we found ourselves at the Basilica.

Construction on the church started in 1882.  Antoni Gaudí took over the project in 1883, and continued working tirelessly on the church until his death in 1926.

Gaudí by Subirachs
Gaudí by Subirachs

In 1936, a group of anarchists destroyed and burned the vast majority of Gaudí’s workshop and plans for the church.  Work halted on the project for a period of time, and resumed again in the early 1950’s.  As with anything in the public eye, there are opponents to the project who claim the intentions of Gaudí are not being honoured, and the at the project has become an abomination of his original ideas.

Even so, construction is still taking place over 130 years later by a dedicated group of architects.  Completion of the Sagrada Familia is anticipated for 2026.   This video shows what the completed Basilica will look like.  (My apologies for the über-cheesy music.)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RcDmloG3tXU

Two facades of the church have been completed, the Nativity Façade and the Passion Façade. The third, the Glory Façade, is yet to be completed.  Gaudí focused on the Nativity Façade, which is atypical of building a church, working on the exterior before the interior main structure is completed.  He knew that others would be inspired by the beauty of the building, and continue construction after he had passed.

The Nativity Façade

The Nativity Façade, completed in 1905, was the only side close to completion in Gaudí’s lifetime.

The Nativity Facade, Sagrada Familia
The Nativity Facade, Sagrada Familia

From the three doors that represent faith, hope and charity to the cypress, the tree of life and universal sign of welcome, the whole façade is a hymn to the joy of creation for the birth of Jesus which is expressed in each and every detail.

From: Sagrada Familia informative plaque

No single picture could do this façade justice.  The simultaneous enormity and intricate minutiae of Gaudí’s work make that an impossible task.

There are three entrances on this northeast side of the church representing Faith, Hope and Charity.  This side of the church is lavishly decorated, and crammed full of symbolism.

The carved stone appears to be bursting with fresh blooms and new leaves, symbolic of the Nativity–life and joy and newness.  Every little detail has been added with purpose.  For example, even the bunches of grapes and ears of wheat, seemingly innocuous ornamentation, symbolize the Eucharist.

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Their upper parts are decorated with mosaics spelling out ‘Sanctus, Sanctus, Sanctus, Hosanna in Excelsis, Amen, Alleluia’. Asked why he lavished so much care on the tops of the spires, which no one would see from close up, Gaudí answered: ‘The angels will see them.

from: www.lonelyplanet.com

The towers are decorated with glittering glass letters, and the spires are topped with adorned with mosaics of Murano glass.Tower Detail

 The Passion Façade

The two different design styles of the Nativity and the Passion are disparate, yet they fit together well.  The ornate designs of the Nativity story are contrasted by the stark nature of the Passion Façade.  This southwest side has been the cause of some controversy amongst Catalans.  The sculptor, Joseph Maria Subirachs, used a much more angular approach than Gaudí’s typical flowing style.  Subirachs also left crucified Jesus totally nude. (Oh the horrors! Hah!)  But, this is a sore spot for many.   I really liked the sculptures, and how they represent the Stations of the Cross.

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Subirachs pays tribute to Gaudí’s style with the shape of the Soldier’s helmets similar to the chimneys of Casa Milà.  Also, the figure far left of the photo of Veronica holding her veil has the same profile as the sculpture of Gaudí by Subirachs.

The doors of the Passion Façade, also done by Subirachs, are the words of the gospels of Matthew and John cast in over 8000 bronze letters. The door contains a miniature of the cryptogram seen in the photo of Judas’ betrayal of Jesus.

Cryptogram combinations
Cryptogram combinations

The cryptogram has multiple combinations of numbers that always add up to 33, the age of Christ in the moment of this death.  There are two numbers repeated 10 and 14; if they are added together the sum is 48, the same result as the addition of the letters INRI (Iesus Nazarenus, Rex Iudaeorum) according to the numerical order of the Latin alphabet.

 The Interior
Sagrada Familia Entrance
Beautiful isn’t it?

Walking into the Sagrada Familia is like being transported into a fanciful forest.  The pillars, and the way the light filters through the stained glass windows is absolutely gorgeous.  Everything has designed with the inspiration of nature.

The pillars are of different shapes and designs, as well as several different types of stone.  The combined effect is otherworldly.   A lot of this portion of the interior was completed as recently as 2010.

Sagrada Familia interiorThe stained-glass windows are reminiscent of watercolor paintings, and, in fact, are designed as watercolor paintings first by artist Joan Vila Grau before they are created in glass.  He explained his intentions as:

For me it was necessary to create an atmosphere, a grand symphony of colour and light. When you go into a Gothic church, a cathedral or a monastery, the first thing you feel is the atmosphere. After that you are aware that there are windows of different colours and thematic representations. But what is important, before everything else, is the atmosphere that is created by the colours – and if the windows have a theme – well why not? But it is not necessary. In the windows of the Sagrada Família there is no figurative iconography but an atmosphere has been created.                                                    from: http:www.vidimus.org

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Since returning home, we’ve watched the documentary “Sagrada: The Mystery of Creation”.  The film is a totally nerdy, but worth watching if you’re in for a slow-moving, yet informative couple of hours.  I left with a feeling of confidence that the artists involved with the Sagrada Familia and its completion have embodied the essence of Gaudí’s vision, and are continuing to honor his life’s work right through to completion.

The Sagrada Familia, a UNESCO World Heritage site, as part of the Works of Antoni Gaudí, since 1984 is definitely worth visiting if you ever find yourself in Barcelona.  Though the line ups are long, and some of the tower tours may be canceled due to inclement weather, it is well worth it.  Save yourself time, and use the online booking options, and then plan to be awed.  You won’t regret it!

~j

Benvinguts a Barcelona

Not sounding like a carbon copy becomes difficult when writing about a European destination.  Everything has been said a million times.    But here goes…

Our hotel, just off of Passeig de Gracia, was close to metro stations with simple connections to other stations in the city.   When selecting accommodation there are three rules – location, location, location!  Besides, who doesn’t love a great metro system?

from: www.tmb.cat/img/genplano.pdf
from: www.tmb.cat/img/genplano.pdf

Even better than metro convenience, we were within walking distance of a lot of fanciful buildings.  Barcelona has some of the most spectacular architecture!

Passeig de Gracia is home to the “Illa de la Discordia“, a city block with some of Barcelona’s most famous Modernista houses built side by side.   We walked past Gaudí’s Casa Batlló on the Block of Discord everyday.

Josep Puig i Cadafalch's Casa Amatller beside Gaudí's Casa Batlló
Josep Puig i Cadafalch’s Casa Amatller beside Gaudí’s Casa Batlló

After we checked-in to the hotel, we made our way to the Arc de Triomf, and the Parc de la Cuitadella.  The Parc has a fountain by Josep Fontserè which was designed after the Trevi Fountain in Rome.  Seems a bit of a stretch; Fontserè’s fountain is not as impressive.

Our first night was also our first experience with just how many people we would be dealing with while trying to navigate the sights.  One of the greatest things about Barcelona is that there is ALWAYS a ton of street traffic–people walking around, eating tapas or even dinner well into the late hours. (10pm is o.k. for dinner here.) And then, those late hours turn into the wee hours of bar revelers.

People are out and about LATE.  It’s fantastic!  However, zillions of tourists were taking in the “Magic Fountain” show.  We happened upon the show by chance, watching it was fine, but missing it wouldn’t have bothered me one bit.

I won’t even pretend to know the intricacies of the architectural style of modernism aka Art nouveau.  Do you own research if you need to know!  There are several architectural giants on the scene in Barcelona.  Two whose work I admired  most were Antoni Gaudí, and Lluís Domènech i Montaner.

Avinguda de GaudíTwo monumental works, Gaudí’s Sagrada Familila and Domènech i Montaner’s Hospital de la Santa Creu i Sant Pau, bookend the quiet pedestrian street of Avinguda de Gaudí.

Gaudí

Gaudí used mixed media with his gorgeous creations of glass, wood, stone, brick, tile, wrought iron and bits of rubble.  His nature inspired designs make the materials work together.

Seven Gaudí buildings share a UNESCO designation–Casa Vicens, the Nativity Façade, the Crypt of the Sagrada Familia, Casa Batlló, Casa Milà, Park Güell, Palacio Güell and the crypt in Colonia Güell. (I will save the Sagrada Familia for another entry entirely as that cathedral alone justly deserves.)

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Noticing all of the thoughtful, intricate details of Gaudí’s masterpieces would not be possible even with a lifetime of study.  For the few hours we had to experience Gaudí’s work, his creativity was awe inspiring.  Everything was as much about form as function, with beauty and industry combined into a liveable works of art.

Domènech i Montaner

Domènech i Montaner, who was once a professor to Gaudí, worked to create an iconic Catalan style of architecture.  His designs feature curved lines, exposed brick work, mixed materials, mosaics, stained glass and ornate façades.

Two Domènech i Montaner buildings, the Hospital de la Santa Creu i Sant Pau and Palau de la Música Catalana share a UNESCO designation.  We were able to visit quite a couple of his impressive buildings on our ramblings through the city.

Hospital de la Santa Creu i de Sant Pau
Lluis Domènech I Montaner’s Hospital de la Santa Creu i de Sant Pau

Domènech i Montaner designed the hospital with the belief that patients would fare better with fresh air and nature.  Corridors and service areas were hidden underground, and courtyards were filled with gardens to aid in recovery.

Lluís Domènech i Montaner's Casa Fuster
Lluís Domènech i Montaner’s Casa Fuster

Unfortunately, we weren’t able to visit the Palau de la Música.  Even if we had, there would be no pictures to share as that building is a camera free zone.   We did see Casa Fuster, which is now a functioning as a hotel.

The banners hanging from the building are for La Diada , or National Day of Catalonia.  September 11, 2014 was a particularly important celebration, and referendum vote.

La Rambla
Walking on Miro
Walking on Miro!  Joan Miro’s “Pla de l’Os”.

No trip to Barcelona would be complete without a stroll or two on La Rambla.  The famous pedestrian-only street is a 1.2km feast for the senses.

People. Watching. Paradise.

An utter ZOO of tourists, and hoards of locals on La Diada  were there for our viewing pleasure.  Eliminate the gents selling annoying little “bird” noise makers, and you’d be golden!

Interesting cafés, boutiques, florists, a fun market, and crazy street performers and artists flank the boulevard.   One of my favorite things was the mosaic by Joan Miró.

We weren’t out on La Rambla late, but have heard that it can get a little dark and twisty, with scams and prostitution problems.   As with any area rife with tourists, the scams are there en force, and La Rambla is no exception to that rule.

Columbus Monument
Columbus Monument at Port Vell

We made our way from Plaça Cataluyna at the top, to the Columbus Monument at the lower end near the old port.

The top viewing “area” of Mirador de Colón  = claustrophobic’s nightmare!   Warning: DO NOT attempt if you can’t handle small spaces.  We don’t, and it was a little ick feeling up there without the added phobia.

View of Port Vell from Mirador de Colon
View of Port Vell from Mirador de Colon

Photos and view of the city from the tower, weren’t so spectacular, but the entrance fee was fairly cheap, maybe 4€?    I’d say, “Not really worth it. Save your money for tapas instead!”

Happy Travels,
~j

2014: Travel Retrospective

Wow, 2014 was a year of travel near and far. A year that was busy and fulfilling, was also a year of change for the site, though the migration to self-hosting is still not complete!  Maintaining a writing focus, while working full-time (sometimes more than full-time), and managing a household is a struggle of a balancing act.  Sometimes, it’s more about living the experience, than writing it all down for y’all.  Sorry, but it’s true.

Looking back on all of the mini-trips, visitors and experiences we had over the year, I thought I’d put together a recap of sorts.  So here it is folks, your 2014 Travel Retrospective.

WINTER

January was a month of lingering cough and cold that felt like it was never, ever going away!  Finally, we were well enough to travel, and made it to Mexico to visit Andrew.  The Mayan Riviera, though not normally my go to vacation scene, was a great little getaway. (You can read about it HERE.)

February was a quiet month for travel because we had visitors here for a sporting event.  There was plenty of time for card games, snacking and catching up between their beloved curling games.  (FYI:  You couldn’t pay me to watch curling. It’s BORING!)

Bombardier Dash 8-300 prop
The Bombardier Dash 8-300 purrs like a kitten

March gave me the opportunity to go to Edmonton to visit Jessie.  We spent a few days chatting, shopping, and touring some of the most hideous Dream Lottery homes ever built.   Driving to Edmonton is always a laborious task, but well worth the scenery.  However, for this trip, I hopped the 1 hour flight.  SO. MUCH. BETTER.  On the flight home, I connected with my sister-in-law and nephew in Calgary, and we were all able to fly home together.  Little Ben flew like a champ. (His mom did too;  anyone who can fly with a toddler deserves a prize!)

SPRING

April and May kept us closer to home.   We had a couple of day trips to Vancouver & Kelowna.  Vancouver is always a nice getaway even during spring showers.  For a change we chose not to drive through the city, and take the Sky Train instead.

Vancouver SkyTrain Map
Thanks for the SkyTrain map Wikimedia commons!

I’ve LOVED the SkyTrain since Expo ’86.  And, traveling like a tourist in your own backyard is kind of fun once in a while.   We spent the day shopping with my Aunt; I purchased a fab little backpack that has been one of my favorite gear purchases this year.

Then, the most shocking event in the history of our friendship with Andrew occurred in June.  HE. GOT. MARRIED!  This from the guy who has been an opponent to marriage and monogamy for as long as I can remember, not that he’s for being single, unfaithful or promiscuous either, he’s just never been pepped up about marriage.  Well, Andrew met his match in his wife, and we couldn’t be happier for them.  We travelled to Golden for the festivities.  Catching up with old  friends and laughing until our sides hurt made for a super fun weekend.

SUMMER

Moose Crossing SignOddly, I visited the Columbia River Valley twice in less than 30 days.  Once for the aforementioned impromptu wedding, and once for a “camping” trip with Jessie and her family for the first week of July.  (Q: Is it still technically classified as camping if you’re sleeping in a double bed, have air conditioning and a DVD player?)

Fort Steele
Fort Steele, BC

We “camped” near Radium Hot Springs, at Redstreak Provincial Campground. One of the days we drove through to Cranbrook and Kimberly.  Along the way we stopped at Fort Steele, a heritage town with a sweet little steam engine train.

Seven Parks in the  Canadian Rockies share a UNESCO designation.  Driving through the beauty of Rogers Pass to the Burgess Shale, it’s easy to understand why.

My friend  Stacey came home from Alberta in August, and it was nice to catch up with her for a quick visit.    Jon and I stayed pretty close to home for the most part.  We made a few trips to the Lake.

Seymour
Seymour. She’s a beauty when she doesn’t smell like wet dog.

Lake days are always filled with long hours at the beach, way too many snacks, and pseudo-competitive card games–mix that up with some sun screen, and a couple of wet dogs, and you’ve got the full package.  We brought our niece with us for one of the trips.  She’s quite the car dancer.  The kid has moves even while buckled into a car seat.

FALL

Our new little nephew was born the first week of September…while we were waiting for a flight in Toronto.  Yep, we missed his arrival because we were traveling to Spain.   Jon and I spent two weeks touring through Spain visiting some gorgeous historic sites.  More on that adventure to come.  Trust me, I’ll be very busy writing over the next couple months.

October was ridiculously busy month for me work wise.  A co-worker was diagnosed with cancer, so we lost an integral member of the team while she left to focus on getting herself well.   I missed our annual tradition of visiting the pumpkin patch.  Jon was able to go, and had a great time with the kids.  Later in the month, we were able to sneak away for an afternoon to visit the Adam’s River Salmon Run.  Our niece and nephew were so excited to see all of the fish.  We’ll have to make it an annual tradition too.

Salmon Run
Adam’s River Salmon Run, BC

In November, Fazh decided to go to Denmark.  He asked me to plan the trip about a week before he decided he was leaving.   For so many reasons the task was nearly impossible!  Through some divine intervention, I was able to find his Danish friend on the internet, and he ended up having a once in a lifetime trip.    And now, Fazh too must focus on getting himself well.

December, while frazzling, has updated/reinforced my outlook that the “small stuff” shouldn’t even be a blip on the radar.  There are so many more important ways to spend time than focusing on trivial matters.

That brings us back to January.  Our newest nephew was born on the 2nd.  Fortunately, we were in the same city for his arrival.   At present we just wait to hear from surgeons, so that they get Fazh fixed up.

We’ve had so many wonderful adventures this year; Thanks to everyone who was a part of them.

Here’s to 2015,

~j

Update from Sevilla

We are winding down to the last few days in Spain. Tomorrow we leave Sevilla for Cordoba, and finally end up in Madrid for the last 2 nights. Then we fly home to meet our new nephew who was born the day we left!

Sevilla has been really fun. It is a nice change from La Linea which was a very utilitarian, border town, by the sea. Most of the buildings were in disrepair, and nothing special to look at. ‎ However, it was the most convenient place to stay for traveling to The Rock of Gibraltar. And, the hotel room was deluxe by our standards–room service, bidet, pool and all!

‎Today we are taking it easy. We tracked down some really beautiful street art, and then had some lunch aka fed some birds in the Plaza Nueva which is near by.

Tomorrow will be an early start.
~j

Granada to Ronda

Sunday, Sunday. We’ve passed the halfway point of our time in Spain although it feels like we have been here much longer which is nice.

Granada is a great city. It is refreshing after the loads of people in Barcelona. On our first day in Granada we visited The Alhambra. The intricacies and details of the carvings are otherworldly. I cannot wait to go through those photos!

Yesterday, we had no set plans, and just explored the city. Granada is one of the only cities I’ve ever seen that has featured graffiti on its tourism maps. It’s easy to find all sorts of interesting pieces if you’re observant, but having a map was kind of fun. A city seeing street art as a feature rather than a nuisance is different for sure. I was in graffiti heaven for most of the day. FYI: There were still the usual shitty tags and scribbles in addition to the prettier pieces.

‎After today in Ronda, we are off to The Rock of Gibraltar tomorrow (which us actually part of the UK). I’m a little nervous about the apes of Gibraltar. In hindsight, it might have been a good idea to get that rabies vaccination after all.

Being bitten by an ape is NOT on my to do list!
~j

9 September, 2014

Hi Everyone!

We are alive and well in Barcelona. It has been quite the adjustment with the time and temperature this trip. Boo jet lag!

Going from semi-arid desert to 85 to 90% humidity takes some getting used to. Luckily, the weather has been good so far. We had a little light rain yesterday morning, but nothing umbrella-worthy.

Navigating the city has been easy. The metro is quick and efficient, although the tunnels are like standing in a disgusting sauna while waiting for the air conditioned cars. I’m sure 90% of the 90% humidity is actually sweat from the passengers. That’s disgusting!

For as easy as Barcelona is to navigate, it is one of the more difficult cities to actually see what we want to see. ‎ There is a lot of hurry up and wait, then stand in line. For example, wait in line 40 minutes to an hour only to book a time slot in 2 hours to come back to see the church, museum, or park. The volume of people definitely leaves a lot to be desired.

Yesterday we managed to visit Park Guell and see a lot of the Gaudi buildings around the city. Today we are out of the city in Montserrat. Montserrat is a mountain top town with a Benedictine ‎Monastery. Sadly, it is overrun with people as well, but we are making the most of it. There’s an air tram and 2 funiculars to go along with the hiking trails. Who doesn’t love a funicular?!?

Tomorrow we are booked for the Sagrada Familia. We didn’t want to wait in line for an hour yesterday only to have to go back in 2 more hours, so we booked online, and will skip the waiting tomorrow.

Stay tuned…
~j

Barcelona: Inspiration

Tomorrow morning we’re off to Spain for two-weeks.  We’re Starting in Barcelona, and heading through Granada, Ronda, Gibraltar, Seville, and ending up in Madrid.  There are a few other cities along the way that should make for a fantastic trip.

For now, here’s a little video preview of some of what we’ll see…thanks and credit to Rob Whitworth again for the video!