Tag Archives: Siem Reap

Sua s’dei Siem Riep

Just about half way through the trip, we left Vietnam for Cambodia.  The flight out of HCMC was delayed, our gate was changed 3 times, and then the power went out to the entire airport–pitch black, power outage.  It. Was. Out.  After an hour or so, the power came back on, and our gate was changed back to the one we started at…seriously?!?!

Eventually we landed in Siem Reap.  We arranged to be picked up at the airport through the guest house we were staying at.  SO AWESOME!  Our tuk-tuk driver introduced himself as Batman, and we were off!The Siem Reap Garden Inn was a tiny little piece of paradise. (The pool is new since we were there.)  Everyone we dealt with seemed genuinely interested in making our experience the best possible which is not something found everyday.  The level of service was probably something we won’t see again.

Beng Mealea road signSiem Reap is one of the most welcoming places we’ve ever been to.  It is an oddly dichotomous place in that is a major tourist hub with a 100% tourist related enterprise as the main focus.  And, then there are obviously Cambodians going about their day to day business.  Kind of like Las Vegas – there’s the Las Vegas strip, which most people from Vegas would avoid like the plague, and then there’s normal Las Vegas where people live, work, go to school etc.   We were lucky enough to see both sides Siem Reap.

As we had limited time in Cambodia, we had a lot of ground to cover.  Our first day was spent with Ta from Peace of Angkor tours.  This has got to be one of the most memorable vacation days we’ll ever have.  He took us to Kompong Khleang and along the Tonle Sap.  We also visited Beng Mealea, and climbed along the walls of the ancient temple.  Ta was fortunate to be one of first people to “rediscover” the temple, and said at the time, there were actually tigers on the temple grounds.

As promised quite a while ago, here are some of the photos from our day with Ta.

The kids were super excited to have their photos taken.  This grandmother wanted hers taken as well.  Just before she posed for the camera, she was hacking away at the edge of the bowl with a machete.  At 78 years old, she was still sharp as a tack.  We had a great time visiting Kompong Khleang.  The stilt houses were absolutely fascinating.  The residents were insanely hospitable to us.  Due to Ta’s kindness, we were invited inside a stilt house to roast cashew nuts picked right from the tree.

We were privileged to see a wedding, where they asked us in closer to take photos of the bride and groom.  And, we also saw/followed a funeral procession for a while.  Richard, a person we were with, said we almost had “hatches, matches and dispatches,” covered.

We had an extraordinary tour through one of the villages outside of Siem Reap, and we were fortunate enough to float on the Tonle Sap River (which in itself is a crazy thing–yep, I’m a nerd!).  None of this experience would have been logistically possible for us without our guide, Ta.  He really made the day one we’ll never forget.

The second half of the day we were at another UNESCO Site, Beng Mealea.  This temple has collapsed walls, and jungle-ish overgrowth that gives it an appeal unlike the other temples we saw in Cambodia.  We were able to climb on the walls and take pathways that would definitely not have been acceptable in the bubble wrapped North American tourism sector.  It was pretty fantastic.  See for yourself…

I <3 Cambodia!

Today could be the best day of our trip so far. The day was supposed to involve a boat trip to a fishing village of Kompong Khleang, lunch, a car trip for about an hour to the Beng Mealea Temple to tour there for an hour, and then back to the hotels for 6:00pm.

We started at 6:45am with our guide, Ta, picking us up at the guesthouse we are staying at. Ta asked if we needed anything, so he took us to the market to buy bug spray which we forgot to pack. We picked up one other couple, Richard and Pauline, and headed out to the Tonle Sap Lake. Along the way we passed through the flood plain of the Tonle Sap where all of the houses are on stilts. Ta was super informative, and also really keen on giving us an authentic Cambodian experience with genuine hospitality.

We stopped to have bamboo filled with rice, coconut milk, some sugar and salt and some black beans for breakfast from a roadside “shop.” Next food experience was Lotus seeds. A woman was selling them, and Ta asked if we wanted to try them. He bought us each a pod of seeds to eat. They taste like fresh peas from the garden. We also saw some kids set up like a lemonade stand on the side of the road. We asked what they were selling, so Ta stopped and bought us some of the fruit. I don’t know how to spell the name, but they looked like yellow/orange figs that peel open to reveal a super sticky, SUPER sour apricot like fruit with several large pits. Ta bought all of the fruit from the kids. He said they were so excited.

While driving we saw a funeral procession which we followed for a while, and then we saw a wedding which guests were inviting us in to take photos. That seemed really weird to me. We saw tons of adorable little kids. They are super keen on seeing their photo on the camera. My display screen was a smudgy mess from them pointing out themselves in the photos. My God were they cute though!

And, the next random food experience-Ta asked if we had tried cashew fruit since we had been in Cambodia. The 4 of us were pretty sure he meant cashew nut, but no there is an actual fruit like an apple that grows off of the nut. He said it wasn’t really the right region, but if we saw a tree he would stop. So we did! We literally invaded some random yard to check out the tree.

The fruit looks like a cashew nut attached to a small pepper-shaped, orange-coloured apple. The fruit is kind of mushy, not crisp. It is very juicy, but at the same time it dries out your mouth-quite an odd flavour sensation really. The home owner was quite happy to have “barang” (foreigner) company. She let Ta use the fire in the kitchen to roast the cashews for us.

While they were roasting we sat in the stilt house with the woman, her daughter, her neighbour, her kids etc etc. It was pretty crazy. The neighbour was 42 years old; she has 11 kids, her oldest child was 28-her youngest 5 months! She asked Ta how many kids we have, and when I said none, she offered me the baby, because “who is going to look after me when I’m old?”

We finally ended up at Beng Mealea where we climbed through the Temple. This is one of the few unrestored “jungle” temples. FYI: there is no fricken way the tour would happen in Canada. We were able to walk on roof tops and wall tops of the crumbled temple. Loved it.

Afterwards, Ta told us about some of his other tours and projects. He dropped us downtown at about 7:15pm so we could easily find somewhere to eat dinner. He also gave us his card and said if we needed anything, help, directions, information anything, to give him a call. He also gave us a map and made sure we knew how to get back to the guesthouse. I have more about Ta, but can’t possibly fit it all in. He was an incredibly inspiring person. I’m sure I will be talking to him again some day. For sure.

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Goodbye Vietnam!

Today is our last day in HCMC. It feels like we have been in Vietnam for longer than a week. Everything is tiring-just going out here brings an onslaught of touts. People try to sell the most random stuff. Everyone in the non-food markets is pushy and grabby and really aggressive while operating under the name of good customer service. Even away from the uber-touristed streets this happens.

The food markets, while interesting, smell like Durian fruit or dried fish. Alternating between the two is enough to make even the most iron-stomached person feel sick in a short period of time.

Tonight we fly to Siem Reap. Let’s hope Siem Reap smells better than Saigon.

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