Side trips and small excursions from major hubs can be the best part of any vacation. They’re usually off the beaten path, and a little less touristy. On our third day in Spain, we decided to visit Montserrat, a Benedictine monastery in the heart of Catalonia.
The trip is about one hour by train from Barcelona, and includes your choice of air tram or railway to get to the top. Of course, we chose air tram–the Aeri de Montserrat. Once at the site, there are a few funiculars to other view points and stops of interest. And we all know how I feel about funiculars!
Aeri de Montserrat – cable car to the monastery
Aeri de Montserrat closer view of cable car
What you need to know:
There’s a pretty dark history of the monastery. During the Spanish civil war dozens of monks were killed as a violent attempt to suppress Catalan culture.
The monastery has one of the oldest and most renowned boys choir. The choir sings through the day, and they’re an impressive bunch of little kids!
Montserrat is one of the most important pilgrimage destinations in Spain. The main buildings and courtyard are overrun with people. Thankfully, the hiking trails are not.
The Black Madonna statue (claimed to be from 50AD, but carbon dated to the 12th century) is patroness of Catalonia. “La Moreneta” is the soul of Montserrat.
Imagine a super religious Banff, A.B. or Whistler, B.C. with a lot less winter sports retail, and less party boys, and you’ve got the atmosphere of Montserrat.
These little guys were out for a hike too.
The rock formations, “serrated mountain” (mont serrat), that give the monastery its name are filled with hiking trails and paths that are fairly easy going. Along the way there are some lovely view points, shrines, and sculptures.
Subirachs sculpture at Montserrat
There were sculptures by Subirachs that completely echoed the figures of the Sagrada Familia. There is also the Ramon Llull’sEscala de l’enteniment. This translates to me as “scale of understanding” or “ladder of being.” From bottom to top the steps are Pedra, Flama, Planta, Bèstia, Home, Cel, Àngel, Dèu. Which to me is Stone, Flames (Hell?), Plants/Earth, Animals, Man, Sky (Heaven?), Angels, God. Not being a Catalan speaker, I hope that’s close!
Ramon Llull’s Escala de l’enteniment
The courtyard of the Basilica of Montserrat is beautiful. I’m a sucker for religious iconography, so I found it particularly interesting. The fountain of youth/life was ridiculous, but the pilgrims were buying into it whole heartedly. They were also lined up forever to touch the statue of La Moreneta/the Black Virgin.
Montserrat Insignia
Magic Fountain of Life Montserrat
Montserrat Prayer
Basilica Courtyard, Montserrat
Just look at all the tiny, intricate details from top to bottom of the Basilica façade–seriously, how long would it take to make something like this?!?
Jesus & The Apostles. Montserrat Basilica Façade built in 1900 to replace the 1500’s original
And, here’s why iconography super interesting. Why is the fourth person holding a massive saw? Or, the eleventh person holding a battle-axe? At first glance, I know which one is Jesus, but the rest can’t justifiably be lumped together as “the Apostles” without me knowing who they are. Well thanks to some research, I know much more about the Apostles lives and deaths, most of which were pretty gruesome.
So, my best guesses, from left to right are: Matthias with a sword, Philip with a cross and basket, Thomas with a spear, Simon with a saw, James the Lesser with a club, Peter with the upside down cross and keys, Jesus, John with the bible, James with the scallops on his shoulders, Bartholomew with the flaying knife, Andrew with the X cross, Matthew with the battle-axe, and Jude with sails, but I can’t really see his outfit or what he’s holding.
If anyone can offer more insight, I’d love to know!
We have been to some magnificent churches in our travels–the iconic Sagrada Familia is no exception. As the most visited Barcelona attraction, there was no way we would miss seeing to this unfinished masterpiece. On our very first night of exploratory wanderings in Barcelona, we found ourselves at the Basilica.
Construction on the church started in 1882. Antoni Gaudí took over the project in 1883, and continued working tirelessly on the church until his death in 1926.
Gaudí by Subirachs
In 1936, a group of anarchists destroyed and burned the vast majority of Gaudí’s workshop and plans for the church. Work halted on the project for a period of time, and resumed again in the early 1950’s. As with anything in the public eye, there are opponents to the project who claim the intentions of Gaudí are not being honoured, and the at the project has become an abomination of his original ideas.
Even so, construction is still taking place over 130 years later by a dedicated group of architects. Completion of the Sagrada Familia is anticipated for 2026. This video shows what the completed Basilica will look like. (My apologies for the über-cheesy music.)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RcDmloG3tXU
Two facades of the church have been completed, the Nativity Façade and the Passion Façade. The third, the Glory Façade, is yet to be completed. Gaudí focused on the Nativity Façade, which is atypical of building a church, working on the exterior before the interior main structure is completed. He knew that others would be inspired by the beauty of the building, and continue construction after he had passed.
The Nativity Façade
The Nativity Façade, completed in 1905, was the only side close to completion in Gaudí’s lifetime.
The Nativity Facade, Sagrada Familia
From the three doors that represent faith, hope and charity to the cypress, the tree of life and universal sign of welcome, the whole façade is a hymn to the joy of creation for the birth of Jesus which is expressed in each and every detail.
From: Sagrada Familia informative plaque
No single picture could do this façade justice. The simultaneous enormity and intricate minutiae of Gaudí’s work make that an impossible task.
There are three entrances on this northeast side of the church representing Faith, Hope and Charity. This side of the church is lavishly decorated, and crammed full of symbolism.
The carved stone appears to be bursting with fresh blooms and new leaves, symbolic of the Nativity–life and joy and newness. Every little detail has been added with purpose. For example, even the bunches of grapes and ears of wheat, seemingly innocuous ornamentation, symbolize the Eucharist.
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Their upper parts are decorated with mosaics spelling out ‘Sanctus, Sanctus, Sanctus, Hosanna in Excelsis, Amen, Alleluia’. Asked why he lavished so much care on the tops of the spires, which no one would see from close up, Gaudí answered: ‘The angels will see them.
The towers are decorated with glittering glass letters, and the spires are topped with adorned with mosaics of Murano glass.
The Passion Façade
The two different design styles of the Nativity and the Passion are disparate, yet they fit together well. The ornate designs of the Nativity story are contrasted by the stark nature of the Passion Façade. This southwest side has been the cause of some controversy amongst Catalans. The sculptor, Joseph Maria Subirachs, used a much more angular approach than Gaudí’s typical flowing style. Subirachs also left crucified Jesus totally nude. (Oh the horrors! Hah!) But, this is a sore spot for many. I really liked the sculptures, and how they represent the Stations of the Cross.
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Subirachs pays tribute to Gaudí’s style with the shape of the Soldier’s helmets similar to the chimneys of Casa Milà. Also, the figure far left of the photo of Veronica holding her veil has the same profile as the sculpture of Gaudí by Subirachs.
The doors of the Passion Façade, also done by Subirachs, are the words of the gospels of Matthew and John cast in over 8000 bronze letters. The door contains a miniature of the cryptogram seen in the photo of Judas’ betrayal of Jesus.
The upper portion of the bronze doors of the Passion Façade
The Crypyogram by Joseph Maria Subirachs
Bronze door of the Passion Façade
Cryptogram combinations
The cryptogram has multiple combinations of numbers that always add up to 33, the age of Christ in the moment of this death. There are two numbers repeated 10 and 14; if they are added together the sum is 48, the same result as the addition of the letters INRI (Iesus Nazarenus, Rex Iudaeorum) according to the numerical order of the Latin alphabet.
The Interior
Beautiful isn’t it?
Walking into the Sagrada Familia is like being transported into a fanciful forest. The pillars, and the way the light filters through the stained glass windows is absolutely gorgeous. Everything has designed with the inspiration of nature.
The pillars are of different shapes and designs, as well as several different types of stone. The combined effect is otherworldly. A lot of this portion of the interior was completed as recently as 2010.
The stained-glass windows are reminiscent of watercolor paintings, and, in fact, are designed as watercolor paintings first by artist Joan Vila Grau before they are created in glass. He explained his intentions as:
For me it was necessary to create an atmosphere, a grand symphony of colour and light. When you go into a Gothic church, a cathedral or a monastery, the first thing you feel is the atmosphere. After that you are aware that there are windows of different colours and thematic representations. But what is important, before everything else, is the atmosphere that is created by the colours – and if the windows have a theme – well why not? But it is not necessary. In the windows of the Sagrada Família there is no figurative iconography but an atmosphere has been created. from: http:www.vidimus.org
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Since returning home, we’ve watched the documentary “Sagrada: The Mystery of Creation”. The film is a totally nerdy, but worth watching if you’re in for a slow-moving, yet informative couple of hours. I left with a feeling of confidence that the artists involved with the Sagrada Familia and its completion have embodied the essence of Gaudí’s vision, and are continuing to honor his life’s work right through to completion.
The Sagrada Familia, a UNESCO World Heritage site, as part of the Works of Antoni Gaudí, since 1984 is definitely worth visiting if you ever find yourself in Barcelona. Though the line ups are long, and some of the tower tours may be canceled due to inclement weather, it is well worth it. Save yourself time, and use the online booking options, and then plan to be awed. You won’t regret it!
Mount of Olives, a hill on the eastern side of Jerusalem, was the site of Christ’s betrayal in the Garden of Gethsemane. There are several churches commemorating events of Christ’s Agony on the Mount of Olives. Jewish cemeteries are a prominent feature on the hill. You’ll also find it is a GREAT place to view the Old City. There are some excellent views of the Dome of the Rock!
As we were without motorized transport for the day, we opted to do a guided walking tour on the Mount of Olives. For the photography, and of course the history, visiting the Mount of Olives is a good way to pass the afternoon. Here are some of the churches and sites we saw on our visit.
Jerusalem is Israel’s largest city by surface, but has less population than Tel Aviv. Overstating the historical significance of Jerusalem would be difficult. The Old City of Jerusalem is a UNESCO World Heritage site, and home to the cornerstones of three faiths, Judaism, Islam and Christianity with approximately 460,000 Jews, 225,000 Muslims, and 15,000 Christians.
Religion has the power to unite people with set rules, beliefs and traditions. A Christian, Muslim or Jew in the USA, Asia or Africa will all have relatively the same teachings based on their specific faiths. This creates a beautiful sense of community.
Church of the Holy Sepulchre
The Western Wall
The Dome of the Rock
On the other hand, Religion has as much, if not more, power to divide. There is discord both amongst, as well as within each of the three faiths and their sects. Catholics and Protestants, Shia and Sunni, Orthodox or Conservative etc. Consequently, there has been much violence amongst and within the three for as long as they’ve been practiced.
The Western Wall, The Dome of the Rock and The Church of the Holy Sepulchre, along with numerous synagogues, mosques, churches, their associated traditions and teachings have anchored these faiths to the city for millennia.
We’ve traveled the world in a secular way to some of the most holy places for many faiths. I’ve done my best to research, and experience aspects of these religions, and don’t intend offence to anyone reading. I’ll simply tell you what we saw in the Old City of Jerusalem.
The Western Wall – The Kotel
If you’ve ever seen a travel show about Jerusalem, you’ve seen the Western Wall with the extraordinarily devout Jewish people rocking back and forth whilst praying or reciting the book of psalms. (Some visit the site daily to recite the entire book.) The Prayer Plaza is a site of pilgrimage for Jews and non-Jews world-wide.
The Western Wall – Jerusalem
Visitors tuck slips of paper with prayers and requests into the wall in hopes that they’ll be answered. Tradition says a person who goes to the Western Wall, and prays for 1 request for 40 consecutive days will have that request granted. FYI: You can even sign up on-line to have someone make the 40 days of prayer for you by proxy, for a fee of course!
But, why is it more effective to pray at the Western Wall than anywhere else?!? What’s wrong with praying at a neighbourhood synagogue, home, etc.? Couldn’t the person just make the request from Albuquerque if needed? The answer can be sweetly summed up with a quick Google search for some Rabbinical wisdom.
…although G‑d is everywhere, His light shines stronger in some places than in others. He compares this to the human body: You are everywhere in your body, yet you are far more conscious of your mind than of your toes. So too, in the universe that G‑d created, there are places, times and states of being where we are able to be more aware of Him—and it is from those places/times/states that our prayers can fly best.
We arrived in Jerusalem during Jewish holiday of Shavuot, and saw thousands of people making their way to the Wall. The assortment of religious attire is fascinating! Fuzzy fur hats, long woolen coats, knotted strings on shirt corners, tiny boxes tied to the top of the head, the list goes on. Check out the Tefellin, the Tallit, the Shtreimel, and why they are customary to some, but not others.
Families making their way to the Western Wall for Shavuot
Jewish women also have specific dress codes with black being the color of choice for most, with very modest hemlines and collars. Most had their hair covered as is mandatory for married Orthodox women. We did not notice any women wearing pants.
The Bar Mitzvah celebrations we saw were super fun, but also upsetting. The area is segregated into men’s and women’s prayer sections, so a mother isn’t able to attend her own son’s Bar Mitzvah celebration, but has to watch from behind a fence. Though tradition, this was kind of unfortunate.
One of the many Bar Mitzvah celebrations we saw approaching the Western Wall Plaza
The ancient, 2,000-year-old stones of the Western Wall have witnessed the Jewish people’s birth, exile, and redemption. This is where the Jewish nation’s past mingles with its hopes for the future.
Outside of Temple Mount, the Western Wall is the most sacred site for the Jewish faith. What we see today is a remnant of the western retaining wall of the Second Temple built by Herod the Great. Although, there is much more of the wall visible beneath the surface which we were able to see.
We did the tour of the Kotel or Western Wall tunnels. If you’re going to Jerusalem, make sure to pre-book a time for this tour as it is well worth the visit. The Western Wall is a captivating and bewildering piece of the religious significance in Jerusalem.
The Dome of the Rock
The Dome of the Rock, Jerusalem
This shining dome pictured above the Western Wall is an iconic symbol of the Old City of Jerusalem. The glittering golden dome was not always golden; it was refinished in the early ’90’s to its current state. The dome is only a small part of the beauty of the building. The Islamic art covering the exterior is phenomenal.
In addition to the Dome of the Rock, The Dome of the Chain and the Al-Aqsa Mosque are atop the site. Muslims believe the “Rock” is the spot that Muhammad visited on his Night Journey, and the al-Aqsa Mosque is the spot from which Muhammad ascended to Heaven with the angel Gabriel to pray with other prophets.
Ablutions station, Dome of the Rock, Jerusalem
Dome of the Chain, Jerusalem
Exterior, Dome of the Rock, Jerusalem
Dome of the Rock, Jerusalem
As the third holiest site in Islam, The Dome of the Rock is obviously an important place of worship. Unfortunately, due to conflict, Israeli police restrict the access of Muslim Palestinians to the site. Men from the West Bank must be over 35 in order to apply for a permit to visit the site, and even then they are typically restricted to access on Muslim holidays only.
As non-Muslims, we weren’t permitted to enter either of the mosques, but we were able to tour the exteriors and grounds freely. On our return to Canada, a few people asked why we didn’t just say we were Muslim and go into the mosque. Well…not only would that be dishonest, but also pretty obvious that we’re not Muslim through not knowing mosque customs or behaviour etc enough to pass muster.
The other huge reason is that faking isn’t really an option when officials ask visitors to quote passages of the Qur’an in Arabic at the entrance. I have only mastered a few basic Arabic phrases, and I’m sure basic greetings, “a man and a boat,” or, “a girl and a bicycle,” don’t cut it!
Holy of Holies warning – Temple Mount
This Dome is also atop the holiest site on earth (The Holy of Holies) for Judaism, which Jewish Law bans Jews from visiting. The Dome covers the Foundation Stone, believed by Jews to be the first part of the earth to come into existence, and the spot where God gathered earth to create Adam. Jews also believe the rock is the foundation for the Ark of the Covenant.
The Dome of the Rock is a flash point for tension. The Friday that we toured the Mount of Olives, there was a scuffle/riot/police situation going on at the Temple Mount.
Recently, I read that the Temple Mount has been temporarily closed to visitors, and that the age minimum of worshippers from the West Bank was raised from 35 to 50 years. Clearly, there is no constancy or certainty of access which really is unfortunate.
The Church of the Holy Sepulchre
The holiest place in Christendom is The Church of the Holy Sepulchre. Christians believe the church is the site of the crucifixion, burial and resurrection of Jesus.
The Holy Sepulchre Church, Jerusalem
The Holy Sepulchre is nothing fanciful outside. The exterior is blandly nondescript. Oddly enough, the interior an utter hodge podge of decorative styles inside from highly ornate to completely run down and fire damaged.
Fire damaged Syrian Orthodox Chapel
Greek Orthodox Catholicon Dome
Crusader crosses, St Helen’s Chapel stairway
At the time of the Crusades, there were three primary denominations appointed to care for the church, Greek Orthodox, Armenian Apostolic and Roman Catholic Churches. Since then, there are Coptic Orthodox, Ethiopian Orthodox and Syrian Orthodox churches and shrines within and around the Holy Sepulchre.
A schedule has been made to regulate times and places of worship for each sect. Since 1192, the keys of the Holy Sepulchre were entrusted to a Muslim family, as none of the factions could agree on who should hold the key for fear of limiting the others’ access. A whole other kind of conflict exists at this holy place!
Eleven monks – seven of them Ethiopian, four Egyptian – were hurt in the violence which followed as the rivals hurled stones, iron bars and chairs at each other.
For example, a 2002 scuffle between the Ethiopian Orthodox Church and the Coptic Church of Egypt that resulted in serious injuries. And this, all because the Ethiopians objected to a Coptic Monk moving his chair a mere 8 inches in an attempt to find shade on a stifling summer day.
It probably doesn’t help that in 1970, the Ethiopians changed the locks on the rooftop chapel while the Coptics were attending midnight prayers, which is why the Coptic Monk was sitting watch/staking claim to the chapel in the first place. The behaviour is mind-boggling!
Clearly, they’re a ridiculously territorial passionate bunch at the Holy Sepulchre, and any violation on boundaries can bring on fisticuffs. I don’t think this video shows the ethic of reciprocity that is supposed to be embodied by the Golden Rule.
Nothing represents the absurdity of the discord quite as well as The Immovable Ladder. This little cedar ladder has been the source of conflict for over a century. Due to Church governance, no cleric of any of the orders may move or rearrange property without the consent of all of the other 5 orders.
No agreement can be made on who has the right to move the ladder. To maintain status quo, no one dares touch it. Yes, folks, that’s a 150-year-old argument about a ladder! (FYI: You can see it under the right window in the photo of the church above)
We didn’t see any of this conflict during our visit to this church. We did wait with hundreds of pilgrims (mostly Russian and Ethiopian) to visit Jesus’ tomb. The group in front of us was chanting and singing while waiting. The zombie drone-like chanting was FREAKY, but the singing was pretty.
The tomb, the actual Holy Sepulchre, is the last stop on the Via Dolorosa, a walk following the 14 Stations of the Cross believed to trace Christ’s footsteps to the crucifixion.
The Via Dolorosa
We walked the Via Dolorosa in a round about way while exploring the Souk. Some of the stations were very difficult to find. Scholars doubt the path Jesus took was anywhere near this current path. Through many centuries, they’ve been created, venerated and become fact to the faithful.
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We visited stations 10-13 inside the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, but it wasn’t always possible/polite to photograph. For example, there was a line to visit Golgotha. Stopping to photograph and hold up legit pilgrims would have been obnoxious.
The Old City of Jerusalem, and the little we learned about traditions and religious practices was incredibly fascinating, frustrating and a little frightening at the same time. The fervour of worship was unlike anything I’ve ever seen.
Faith, rather than fanaticism, entwined with tolerance would make for a much more peaceful region. Here’s hoping.
Given the most recent Israeli/Gaza conflict, some back ground information is probably critical. Let’s face it, Israel and the Middle East don’t get a lot of great press when it comes to safety and security. Due to lack of interest, global awareness or even opportunity, some people don’t have any knowledge of WHY the conflict even exists. Here is a very brief explanation:
While I can’t claim to be an expert in international politics in any way, I can tell you what we saw. For background, we visited the West Bank–not Gaza. There is a difference! We crossed at a pedestrian only checkpoint, as most are, so we either had to rent a car, or hire a guide with a vehicle. Navigating the road restrictions was more than we wanted to bargain for by ourselves, and we were forbidden from driving our rental car in the West Bank. As a result, we hired a guide for the day.
There are 3 areas, A, B and C. A is controlled by PNA, B is patrolled by PNA, but enforced by IDF and C is IDF.
Most news footage of the Middle East is typically of missiles, rubble, and agonizing grief. Mainstream media does more to misinform than it does to enlighten when it comes to Israel/Palestine conflict, and the portrayal of the people living in these areas. I didn’t feel unsafe in any way where we were. There was one freaky road sign, that Salwa explained to us. Israeli Defence Forces (IDF)and Palestinian National Authority (PNA) control three different areas, A, B and C, in the West Bank. FYI: Hamas controls Gaza. HUGE difference. Google it if you like.
Here is some information about our guide, Salwa, an actual human beingfrom Palestine. Salwa is a Palestinian woman, who was born in Colombia. She grew up the West Bank, and now lives with her husband and daughters near Beit Jala. Her family lived in Detroit, MI for a while when her Palestinian husband was working there as a university professor. She’s a witty woman who speaks several languages. During the course of the day she spoke English, Arabic, French and Spanish.
Salwa is a Catholic, not a Muslim. It always seems to be portrayed that all Palestinians practice Islam. (Thanks network news!) She explained to us that religious faith is listed on identification papers. I asked what would happen if a person doesn’t believe in anything? She answered that it isn’t possible to have a choice of “no religion.” For the sake of profiling, if the person selects none, they are by default listed as the same faith as their parents.
Salwa was willing to answer our questions about day to day life under occupation in The West Bank. Let’s begin the recap of the day…
Rachel’s Crossing – Israeli Check-Point
We crossed from Jerusalem at Rachel’s Crossing. This is the closest crossing to Bethlehem, Nativity Square, and some of the churches and monasteries we wanted to see.
Rachel’s Tomb Crossing, Israeli Side
Rachel’s Tomb Crossing, Palestinian Side
Rachel’s Tomb Crossing, Palestinian Side
Rachel’s Tomb Crossing, Palestinian Side
Rachel’s Tomb Crossing, Palestinian Side
There is a stark contrast between the Israeli side and the Palestinian side. In a conflicted way, I was loving the art on the wall.
Orthodox Monasteries
We arranged to visit the Mar Saba Monastery in the Kidron Valley, and St George’s Monastery in Wadi Qelt, as well as the Monastery of the Temptation in Jericho. All three are Greek Orthodox Monasteries. Salwa actually thought we were Orthodox because we wanted to see them. That’s funny! FYI: As females, Salwa and I weren’t allowed into Mar Saba Monastery. We waited outside while a young kid came out to offer us water and cookies.
Mar Saba Monastery, Kidron Valley The West Bank
Female Pilgrims outside Mar Saba Monastery
Kidron Valley The West Bank
St George’s Monastery Wadi Qelt, The West Bank
St George’s Monastery Wadi Qelt, The West Bank
Living quarters, Mount of Temptation, Jericho
Living quarters, Mount of Temptation, Jericho
Jericho
Jericho is thought to be the world’s lowest lying, oldest, continually inhabited city. It is approximately 850 feet below Sea Level. There have been archaeological evidence of settlements up to 10,000BC. That’s pre-pottery folks! Another fun fact–Jericho has the World Record for the longest cable car below Sea Level. We stopped in Jericho for lunch which included Knafeh, a traditional Palestinian desert.
Jericho Cable Car
Sea Level, The West Bank
Manger Square, Bethlehem
UNESCO Designation, Church of the Nativity Bethlehem
The Church of the Nativity in Bethlehem is traditionally thought to be the birthplace of Jesus. As of 2012, the basilica is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. We visited the Grotto of the Nativity, and saw the 14 pointed silver star that marks the spot of Jesus’ birth. Unlucky for you, the photos were a blur. We were being rushed by a crowd, and Salwa was being shushed by one of the Orthodox Monks. (She said he usually gives her a hard time for being too sassy when she’s there.)
Mosaic Floor, Church of the Nativity
Mosaic Floor, Church of the Nativity
The Wall
I started this entry with photos of the Wall, it is called a Security Fence, a Separation Fence, an Anti-Terrorism Wall, a Racial Segregation Wall and an Apartheid Wall. Prior to even planning a trip to Israel, I saw a news story about the wall and wanted more information. A couple of the books that I found helpful were A Wall in Palestine and Behind the Wall: Life, Love and Struggle in Palestine. There are so many awful, infuriating stories to be told. Stories of separation, resilience, desperation, and strength of spirit.
I had been asking Salwa a lot of questions about the wall and living under occupation. She actually stopped the car, started talking to a man who graciously invited us into his home so that we could see how construction of the wall affected his family. It was heart-breaking! Here is what we saw from his balcony.
The wall protecting Route 60 – Israeli Only highway through the West Bank
The view from their deck. Where the wire fence is currently is where the wall was supposed to be built–right over the family’s tiny garden that is in ruins now.
This portion protects the Israeli Only highway through the West Bank
Essentially, the wall serves to protect one side, and imprison another. Courtesy of googling “effectiveness of the separation barrier” Israeli statistics say that between 2000 and 2003 there were 73 suicide bomber attacks, and from 2003 to 2006 there were only 12. With 521 attacks stopped during that same period. That’s A LOT.
Both sides are being driven to desperation. There has to be a better way.
~j
Haifa, in Northern Israel, is home to the Bahá’í Gardens. The Garden houses the Shrine of the Bab which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and one of the most holy places for the Bahá’í religion.
Because I’m a total nerd, I researched the Bahá’í faith prior to visiting the centre. In a nut shell, the religion is monotheistic, so there is one all-powerful God. Bahá’ís emphasize a spiritual unity of all people. One of the main beliefs is that no religion has a monopoly on the truth. They believe that all are true at the spiritual core, but have diverged through their social teachings. Bahá’ís seek to combine all teaching of the holy men into one tidy package.
The gardens were spectacular. They truly are some of most gorgeously manicured gardens I’ve ever seen. Viewed from the base of the gardens, or from the top of Mt. Carmel, they’re beautiful.
If you want to know where to find the BESTShawarma in Israel, look no further than Nazareth. This historic biblical town may be full of crazy drivers, winding roads, and hoards of Ethiopian pilgrims, but they 100% know a thing or two about perfecting this delicious food!
Let’s begin the story with why were in Nazareth for lunch in the first place. Nazareth, “the Arab capital of Israel” is home to The Basilica of the Annunciation. The basilica was consecrated in 1969. It was built on top of 4 previous churches at the same site, and over the grotto thought to be the Virgin Mary’s house. So, at least 5 churches later is the present day basilica in Nazareth.
The walls are adorned with artwork from all over the world that represents the Virgin and Child. I was loving the variation on a theme. See for yourself…
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After touring the building and grounds, we wandered on some of the surrounding streets. Kazanova Kiosk was the perfect spot to grab something to eat quickly before getting back on the road. There is a great little seating area just to the right of this little gem of a place. Super quick service, and so, so delicious! I really wasn’t expecting much for tasty options so close to the Basilica in a touristed area. (The customer before us paid in US dollars which is usually a sign to run in the other direction.)
The not so secret location for you!
If you’re in Nazareth, and you’re looking for some divine shawarma, this is you’re place! Tell them I said “Hi!”
~j
Masada is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and one of Israel’s most popular attractions. For our first night in Israel, we stayed at the Masada Youth Hostel and Guest House. FYI: The Hostels in Israel are like no other. This place was more like a convention centre! We visited the ruins of this mountaintop fortress that overlooks the banks of the Dead Sea.
There is a cable car to get to the top of Masada. (There is also a switch-back pathway to the top, but it looked BRUTAL, and it was HOT in the desert!) Masada has the ruins of one of the palaces of Herod the Great at the top of the mesa, as well as the remains of Roman camps at the base of the fortified hill.
Israeli Flag Masada Israel
View of the Dead Sea from Masada
View of the Dead Sea from Masada Israel
Columbarium to hold urns of ashes, Masada Israel
Archway ruins Masada
I didn’t know much about the history of Masada prior to visiting, and actually found the site rather informative. In 73AD Masada had been under Roman siege for two years as one of the last Jewish strongholds when it was finally taken. Rather than succumb to Roman rule and slavery, the Jews of Masada chose to commit mass suicide.
Judaism prohibits suicide, so the men of Masada drew names, and killed each other down to the last man who would commit suicide. There was a whole exhibit showing pieces of the clay shards with names found on the site. Almost 1000 people were killed.
The synagogue at the top of Masada is thought to be one of the oldest in Israel. While we were at the site, there was a group singing in the synagogue. It was simultaneously eerie and beautiful.
From Masada we made our way to the Tiberias. Stay tuned…
~j
As I mentioned before, we arrived very late to Madaba. We were awake to hear the first call to prayer (around 5:00am) partially due to jet lag. Listening to the tune and thinking of all those it means something to is a rather reflective way to start the day. I love it! Sing the adhan from the minaret Muezzin. It’s all good! (Note to self: must find out what they’re saying because it is different wording at different times of the day!)
We stayed at St. George’s Church, the Church of the Map. This is an unassuming Greek Orthodox Church from the outside, but actually houses the oldest existing map of the Holy Land. The map features significant biblical places, the Dead Sea and Jerusalem amongst others. It basically covers the area from Egypt to Lebanon.
Exterior of St George’s Church, Madaba Jordan
Hanging on the wall of the lobby
Iconography inside the Church of the Map, St George’s Church, Madaba Jordan
The Mosaic Map, Church of the Map, Madaba Jordan
The Mosaic Map, Church of the Map, Madaba Jordan
The mosaicist conceived and carried out his masterwork with great topographical skill and biblical knowledge. The Madaba Mosaic map is deemed by some scholars to be the best topographic representation ever done before modern cartography.
For our first day in Jordan, we explored the city, enjoyed some phenomenal food at Haret Jdoudna, and just took in the sights. Madaba has been called The City of Mosaics. There is no shortage of shops selling all sorts of hand-made tile pieces. I was particularly enamoured with the painted Ostrich Eggs, but didn’t know if they’d make it through the rest of the trip in one piece, or be a problem with customs on return. Some were hideous, some were fantastic. We ended up buying two small pieces of mosaic in Madaba. While speaking to the shop keeper, we learned that he had a brother in Canada, living not far from us. Small world! Everyone we spoke with was extraordinarily friendly and welcoming. Jordanians have to be some of the most hospitable people on the planet.
Salad at Haret Jdoudna, Madaba Jordan
Delicious Hummous at Haret Jdoudna, Madaba Jordan
Fresh Made Pita at Haret Jdoudna, Madaba Jordan
To make our way from Madaba to Wadi Musa, we ended up hiring a driver to take us and another couple along the King’s Highway to do some sight-seeing along the way. We drove through the Wadi Mujib Nature Reserve for the most part as it covers a lot of the area. Eventually we stopped at the ruins of al-Kerak castle. This Crusader castle is one of the largest in the area. It is preserved really well, and we were able to wander around the site for quite a while.
Bedouin camp on the way from Madaba to Wadi Musa
Al Kerak Castle Crusader Castle, Jordan
Al Kerak Castle Crusader Castle, Jordan
Al Kerak Castle Crusader Castle, Jordan
Fields on the way from Madaba to Wadi Musa
View of Wadi Mujib on the way to Wadi Musa
On our arrival to Wadi Musa, we decided that we wanted to experience Petra at Night prior to our first daylight visit. Word on the street that if you see Petra before the night-time visit it isn’t as impressive. I’m glad we decided to do the Petra at Night first, as it would be true.
We’re winding down to the last bit of the trip now. Tomorrow is our last day with the rental car, so we have to drive from Akko to Tel Aviv to drop off the car, and then take transport to Jerusalem. Israel has been really interesting so far. The scenery is extremely varied–there are areas of scorched earth desert, so crumbly, dry and hot, that it looks like a foreign planet; then there are areas that look like familiar like farmland of the BC interior, or orchards and lakeside areas of the Okanagan. We saw this all within the span of a few hours driving.
Yesterday we were in Tiberias on the Sea of Galilee; we drove up Mount Tabor, and visited the first of many religious buildings we will be seeing. There were over 100 Ethiopian pilgrims at the Church of Transfiguration. We continued onto Nazareth, and saw the Basilica of the Annunciation. The art work in and around the basilica was fantastic. There were representations/interpretations of the Madonna with Child from dozens of countries.
Last night we visited the mosque here in Akko, and this morning we were at the Baha’i World Centre in Haifa, and this afternoon the Stella Maris monastry. If only we were able to fit in a synagogue too! (The hotel we are staying in has one on site, so that will have to do!)
Adventures of a couple seeing the world 2 weeks at a time.
Haifa, in Northern Israel, is home to the Bahá’í Gardens. The Garden houses the Shrine of the Bab which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and one of the most holy places for the Bahá’í religion.
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