Tag Archives: park

Benvinguts a Barcelona

Not sounding like a carbon copy becomes difficult when writing about a European destination.  Everything has been said a million times.    But here goes…

Our hotel, just off of Passeig de Gracia, was close to metro stations with simple connections to other stations in the city.   When selecting accommodation there are three rules – location, location, location!  Besides, who doesn’t love a great metro system?

from: www.tmb.cat/img/genplano.pdf
from: www.tmb.cat/img/genplano.pdf

Even better than metro convenience, we were within walking distance of a lot of fanciful buildings.  Barcelona has some of the most spectacular architecture!

Passeig de Gracia is home to the “Illa de la Discordia“, a city block with some of Barcelona’s most famous Modernista houses built side by side.   We walked past Gaudí’s Casa Batlló on the Block of Discord everyday.

Josep Puig i Cadafalch's Casa Amatller beside Gaudí's Casa Batlló
Josep Puig i Cadafalch’s Casa Amatller beside Gaudí’s Casa Batlló

After we checked-in to the hotel, we made our way to the Arc de Triomf, and the Parc de la Cuitadella.  The Parc has a fountain by Josep Fontserè which was designed after the Trevi Fountain in Rome.  Seems a bit of a stretch; Fontserè’s fountain is not as impressive.

Our first night was also our first experience with just how many people we would be dealing with while trying to navigate the sights.  One of the greatest things about Barcelona is that there is ALWAYS a ton of street traffic–people walking around, eating tapas or even dinner well into the late hours. (10pm is o.k. for dinner here.) And then, those late hours turn into the wee hours of bar revelers.

People are out and about LATE.  It’s fantastic!  However, zillions of tourists were taking in the “Magic Fountain” show.  We happened upon the show by chance, watching it was fine, but missing it wouldn’t have bothered me one bit.

I won’t even pretend to know the intricacies of the architectural style of modernism aka Art nouveau.  Do you own research if you need to know!  There are several architectural giants on the scene in Barcelona.  Two whose work I admired  most were Antoni Gaudí, and Lluís Domènech i Montaner.

Avinguda de GaudíTwo monumental works, Gaudí’s Sagrada Familila and Domènech i Montaner’s Hospital de la Santa Creu i Sant Pau, bookend the quiet pedestrian street of Avinguda de Gaudí.

Gaudí

Gaudí used mixed media with his gorgeous creations of glass, wood, stone, brick, tile, wrought iron and bits of rubble.  His nature inspired designs make the materials work together.

Seven Gaudí buildings share a UNESCO designation–Casa Vicens, the Nativity Façade, the Crypt of the Sagrada Familia, Casa Batlló, Casa Milà, Park Güell, Palacio Güell and the crypt in Colonia Güell. (I will save the Sagrada Familia for another entry entirely as that cathedral alone justly deserves.)

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Noticing all of the thoughtful, intricate details of Gaudí’s masterpieces would not be possible even with a lifetime of study.  For the few hours we had to experience Gaudí’s work, his creativity was awe inspiring.  Everything was as much about form as function, with beauty and industry combined into a liveable works of art.

Domènech i Montaner

Domènech i Montaner, who was once a professor to Gaudí, worked to create an iconic Catalan style of architecture.  His designs feature curved lines, exposed brick work, mixed materials, mosaics, stained glass and ornate façades.

Two Domènech i Montaner buildings, the Hospital de la Santa Creu i Sant Pau and Palau de la Música Catalana share a UNESCO designation.  We were able to visit quite a couple of his impressive buildings on our ramblings through the city.

Hospital de la Santa Creu i de Sant Pau
Lluis Domènech I Montaner’s Hospital de la Santa Creu i de Sant Pau

Domènech i Montaner designed the hospital with the belief that patients would fare better with fresh air and nature.  Corridors and service areas were hidden underground, and courtyards were filled with gardens to aid in recovery.

Lluís Domènech i Montaner's Casa Fuster
Lluís Domènech i Montaner’s Casa Fuster

Unfortunately, we weren’t able to visit the Palau de la Música.  Even if we had, there would be no pictures to share as that building is a camera free zone.   We did see Casa Fuster, which is now a functioning as a hotel.

The banners hanging from the building are for La Diada , or National Day of Catalonia.  September 11, 2014 was a particularly important celebration, and referendum vote.

La Rambla
Walking on Miro
Walking on Miro!  Joan Miro’s “Pla de l’Os”.

No trip to Barcelona would be complete without a stroll or two on La Rambla.  The famous pedestrian-only street is a 1.2km feast for the senses.

People. Watching. Paradise.

An utter ZOO of tourists, and hoards of locals on La Diada  were there for our viewing pleasure.  Eliminate the gents selling annoying little “bird” noise makers, and you’d be golden!

Interesting cafés, boutiques, florists, a fun market, and crazy street performers and artists flank the boulevard.   One of my favorite things was the mosaic by Joan Miró.

We weren’t out on La Rambla late, but have heard that it can get a little dark and twisty, with scams and prostitution problems.   As with any area rife with tourists, the scams are there en force, and La Rambla is no exception to that rule.

Columbus Monument
Columbus Monument at Port Vell

We made our way from Plaça Cataluyna at the top, to the Columbus Monument at the lower end near the old port.

The top viewing “area” of Mirador de Colón  = claustrophobic’s nightmare!   Warning: DO NOT attempt if you can’t handle small spaces.  We don’t, and it was a little ick feeling up there without the added phobia.

View of Port Vell from Mirador de Colon
View of Port Vell from Mirador de Colon

Photos and view of the city from the tower, weren’t so spectacular, but the entrance fee was fairly cheap, maybe 4€?    I’d say, “Not really worth it. Save your money for tapas instead!”

Happy Travels,
~j

9 September, 2014

Hi Everyone!

We are alive and well in Barcelona. It has been quite the adjustment with the time and temperature this trip. Boo jet lag!

Going from semi-arid desert to 85 to 90% humidity takes some getting used to. Luckily, the weather has been good so far. We had a little light rain yesterday morning, but nothing umbrella-worthy.

Navigating the city has been easy. The metro is quick and efficient, although the tunnels are like standing in a disgusting sauna while waiting for the air conditioned cars. I’m sure 90% of the 90% humidity is actually sweat from the passengers. That’s disgusting!

For as easy as Barcelona is to navigate, it is one of the more difficult cities to actually see what we want to see. ‎ There is a lot of hurry up and wait, then stand in line. For example, wait in line 40 minutes to an hour only to book a time slot in 2 hours to come back to see the church, museum, or park. The volume of people definitely leaves a lot to be desired.

Yesterday we managed to visit Park Guell and see a lot of the Gaudi buildings around the city. Today we are out of the city in Montserrat. Montserrat is a mountain top town with a Benedictine ‎Monastery. Sadly, it is overrun with people as well, but we are making the most of it. There’s an air tram and 2 funiculars to go along with the hiking trails. Who doesn’t love a funicular?!?

Tomorrow we are booked for the Sagrada Familia. We didn’t want to wait in line for an hour yesterday only to have to go back in 2 more hours, so we booked online, and will skip the waiting tomorrow.

Stay tuned…
~j