Tag Archives: monkey

Europe, United Kingdom

UK: The Rock of Gibraltar

Before we started traveling, I never once thought that I’d someday be standing on a hotel balcony in Spain, while simultaneously looking at a British territory and the coastline of Africa.  But, that’s where I found myself folks!

The coast of Morocco
Coast of Morocco in the distance on the left and Spain on the right from Gibraltar

That’s the second time I’ve been close enough to visit Africa, but just haven’t been able to make it work.  One day Africa…one day!

Classic UK Phone booth, GibraltarGoing from Spain to Gibraltar, you really do get the stereotypical UK experience.  There are the cheesy red phone booths, Bobby’s on patrol, and dozens of Fish & Chip shops.  The Gibraltar Pound Sterling is awesome too–who doesn’t want a monkey on the 5p coin?!?

Visiting to the Rock of Gibraltar is synonymous with visiting the Barbary macaques that make the rock their home.  Other than us humans, the Barbary macaques are the only free-living primates in Europe.  Technically they’re monkeys, not apes, but just go with it–everyone calls them Barbary Apes, so we will too.

Approximately 300 macaques live there, so I knew we’d see them.  Only, I’d heard quite a few stories of attacks by greedy, territorial apes; that wasn’t something I was keen to discover.

Luckily, I didn’t have any issues.  Jon managed to climb up a small look-out to take a photo, and worked his way into the path of two apes that came charging after each other.  Slight body check by primate, and he was none the worse for wear!

The Rock of Gibraltar
The Rock of Gibraltar

In 1713, Spain signed the territory over to Britain “in perpetuity.” As long as the Barbary apes remain on the Rock of Gibraltar, the Rock will remain British Territory.  After WWII, their population had dwindled to less than a dozen.  Churchill ordered their numbers to be increased because of this traditional belief.  So, more monkeys were brought in from Algeria and Morocco.

Barbary Macaque, GibraltarToday they’re closely monitored and cared for by a dedicated veterinary team.  The Barbary macaque is on the endangered species list, so preservation is tantamount.

Beyond visiting top of the rock by cable car to visit the Apes, there are all sorts of old war tunnels, St. Michael’s Cave with impressive formations to visit along the way back to the residential/shopping district at the base.  We spent some time shopping, and then hopped a bus to Europa Point, the most southern point of Gibraltar.

St. Michael’s Cave, Gibraltar
Ibrahim-al-Ibrahim Mosque, Gibraltar
Gibraltar Cable Car

The Point has a few buildings, including the Ibrahim- al-Ibrahim mosque and the Europa Point Light House.  It is also the perfect spot to take photos across the Strait of Gibraltar of the Rif Mountains in Morocco.

Rif Mountains, North African Coast
Rif Mountains, North African Coast from Gibraltar

Having history, geology, and fun Brit shops the check out (Yes, we went to Marks & Spencer), combined with the scenery and the apes makes the Rock of Gibraltar a pretty awesome place to visit.

Happy Travels
~j

Asia, Cambodia

Cambodia: Two Days at Angkor Wat

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During our time in Siem Reap, we allotted two days to explore the temples of The Angkor Complex.  The Angkor Complex and surrounding area is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  Most people call the entire area Angkor Wat, but in actuality, Angkor Wat is just one of the many incredible temples in the area.

Angkor Temple Map
From: http://www.tourismcambodia.com/

Because we had a lot of ground to cover, we had to decide how to best plan our visit.  There are many options for transportation through the temple grounds–cycling, tuk-tuk, car.   You would be extremely inefficient and ridiculously limited  without transportation.  The complex is gigantic and spread out.

Monkey, Angkor
Monkey’s like Tuk-Tuks!

We decided that day one we would use a car, and day two we would use a tuk-tuk.   Our driver, Dora, was quite possibly the nicest person ever! He gave us so much information about the area, about himself, and about Cambodia in general that we decided to scrap the tuk-tuk day two, and go with him again.  He was awesome!  (FYI:  It really was nice having the air-conditioning.  We were spoiled Day 1, so that was a definite bonus!)

The Temples

The temples were built between the 9th and 15th centuries AD, starting with Preah Ko (AD 875-890), and ending with Bayon (AD 1175-1240).

Of all of the temples in the complex, Angkor Wat and Angkor Thom are the most impressive.  Angkor Wat is the said to be the world’s largest religious structure.  It is definitely the most famous and most ornate.  We started the day at Angkor Thom.

Angkor Thom
One of the many faces of Bayon Temple of Angkor Thom

Angkor Thom is more like a city of temples, (see the map above) including Bayon, Baphuon, Phimeanakas, the Terace of the Leper King and the Terrace of the Elephants.   Our first impression was of the massive causeway and gates.   The Asura statues lining the causeway are all slightly different than each other.

Each one is different!
Asura statue at the Victory Gate, Angkor Thom
Scars of war – This Asura statue has been shot; that’s a bullet hole.

The temples are filled with details, from panels depicting various scenes of day to day life, to bas-reliefs of apsara dancers, to walls and walls of carved writing.  It’s overwhelming, and impossible to see all of it in two days.  Even writing this now, I’m finding it difficult to focus on just one thing.  Let’s let the pictures do the work!

Here are some of the lovelies we saw:

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Reconstruction & Restoration

Angkor was “rediscovered” in the 19th century, having been abandoned for centuries, and was once again lost to the world during the 70’s due to war.  Since the collapse of the Khmer Rouge in the late 90’s, the temples have undergone massive restoration efforts.   Mines (unexploded ordinance) had to be cleared from the area, not to mention an overgrowth of vegetation.

Restoration efforts were prominent, and globally funded.  Given the importance of Angkor archeologically, and to the Cambodians economically, conserving the site is of utmost importance.

Banteay Srei Conservation Project, Cambodia
West Gopura Restoration Project, Cambodia
West Gopura Restoration Project, Cambodia
Angkor Wat Causeway Restoration Project
Phimeanakas Temple Conservation Project
Scaffolding at Angkor Wat, Cambodia

There is so much to say about our time at the Angkor Complex.  So much history, so many interesting things and people that the photos will have to do a lot of the work.

If you have the opportunity to visit Cambodia, you won’t be disappointed.  The people were the most gracious hosts, and the small bit of scenery we saw was unbelievably gorgeous.

~j