Tag Archives: food

Charles, you don’t need that!

So, you might know that I’m taking my dad (Fazh) to New Zealand in a little over 2 weeks. He’s gone a little nutty with excitement. Months ago I gave him Eyewitness New Zealand to read through. He started dog earring corners, and writing notes in the book, essentially making a list of things he wanted to see. This is his trip, so I’ll do my best to make sure as much of what he wants to see is included. Some of the requests created a logistical nightmare. We only have 2 weeks and he’s got about 2 months worth of stuff on the list.

Most important to him was seeing how kiwi fruit grows, seeing a Kauri tree logging harbour, seeing a sheep shearing, going to the glow worm caves, and seeing penguins. He also wants to take the InterIsland ferry and the TranzAlpine train. Then he decided that Milford Sound and the Moeraki Boulders would be good options as well. All of those things I’m alright with except for the logging industry. That wasn’t going to be logistically possible, and was promptly cut. (I also couldn’t make the TranzAlpine work. The Coastal Pacific works just fine though.)

I think the fruit is what he’s most excited for, it isn’t like we don’t have kiwi fruit in the supermarket here, and it isn’t like he has never see a sheep being shorn in Canada either. Who am I to argue?

As the trip gets closer, he gets sillier. Here’s a conversation from last week.

Me: We’re going to have to get you some snacks for the 7 hour bus ride we have one day so you don’t turn into a cranky bitch.
Fazh: Stock me up on marshmallows and licorice, and I’ll be fine.
Me: Uh, maybe we could get you a sandwich and a drink or something to pack with you instead of just sugar.
Fazh: Where are you going to get a sandwich there?

Like he has a steady diet of pure sugar here? Like there are no supermarkets in New Zealand? No bread, no sandwich supplies? Really?!?

And today he calls me at work:

Fazh: I have to go buy a backpack for the trip. I think I’m going to get something camouflage so that I can use it for hunting and fishing later.
Me: Ok, but you have to get something small. 30L or less. It has to be small enough for carry-on. I’ll take you shopping on Thursday after work so you can pick out something good.
Fazh: I have ear plugs for the plane. They have a string connecting them so I don’t lose them. And I’m going to pick up a Louis L’Amour book. They’re all the same–the cowboy will ride his horse around, do some shooting, run around for a while, kiss the girl and they’ll ride off into the sunset together. Those books are all the same. I’m going to buy one right now.

(FYI: He bought FOUR Louis L’Amour books today! Who brings 4 books on vacation? They weigh a fricken ton, and I’m being the luggage stickler forcing him to take only carry-on. Ol’ Louis might just have to sit this one out…or at least 3 of them will. Jeeze!)

And after work:

Me: Did you find a backpack?
Fazh: Yes, I looked at them. I saw one that looked comfortable.
Me: Did you try it on?
Fazh: No, you told me not to buy it unless you looked at it. I also saw some Merrell running shoes that looked comfortable. They had a deal buy 1 pair get 1 pair half off so they could have gotten $200 out of me.
Me: You know you can buy just 1 pair right?
Fazh: Well I didn’t buy any because you told me not to buy anything.
Me: …….

But the best part of the day, and for all of you who get this conversation, I hope you find it as funny as me. (FYI: he’s 62, able bodied, and does not limp.)

Fazh: I don’t want you yelling at me because I’m old. I don’t want you yelling at me because I’m limping around. I don’t want you yelling at me because I’m slow.
Me: I’ll yell at you, you’ve got a 20 minute time limit, move it along mister. I’m gonna yell at you if you so much as think about eating an extra cookie.
Fazh: Then I’ll start calling you JOAN!*
Me: Charles you don’t need that!

Moral of the story, I might go cuckoo.

*Joan is my Grandma’s name. She’s the food police with my Grandpa.

Sua s’dei Siem Riep

Just about half way through the trip, we left Vietnam for Cambodia.  The flight out of HCMC was delayed, our gate was changed 3 times, and then the power went out to the entire airport–pitch black, power outage.  It. Was. Out.  After an hour or so, the power came back on, and our gate was changed back to the one we started at…seriously?!?!

Eventually we landed in Siem Reap.  We arranged to be picked up at the airport through the guest house we were staying at.  SO AWESOME!  Our tuk-tuk driver introduced himself as Batman, and we were off!The Siem Reap Garden Inn was a tiny little piece of paradise. (The pool is new since we were there.)  Everyone we dealt with seemed genuinely interested in making our experience the best possible which is not something found everyday.  The level of service was probably something we won’t see again.

Beng Mealea road signSiem Reap is one of the most welcoming places we’ve ever been to.  It is an oddly dichotomous place in that is a major tourist hub with a 100% tourist related enterprise as the main focus.  And, then there are obviously Cambodians going about their day to day business.  Kind of like Las Vegas – there’s the Las Vegas strip, which most people from Vegas would avoid like the plague, and then there’s normal Las Vegas where people live, work, go to school etc.   We were lucky enough to see both sides Siem Reap.

As we had limited time in Cambodia, we had a lot of ground to cover.  Our first day was spent with Ta from Peace of Angkor tours.  This has got to be one of the most memorable vacation days we’ll ever have.  He took us to Kompong Khleang and along the Tonle Sap.  We also visited Beng Mealea, and climbed along the walls of the ancient temple.  Ta was fortunate to be one of first people to “rediscover” the temple, and said at the time, there were actually tigers on the temple grounds.

As promised quite a while ago, here are some of the photos from our day with Ta.

The kids were super excited to have their photos taken.  This grandmother wanted hers taken as well.  Just before she posed for the camera, she was hacking away at the edge of the bowl with a machete.  At 78 years old, she was still sharp as a tack.  We had a great time visiting Kompong Khleang.  The stilt houses were absolutely fascinating.  The residents were insanely hospitable to us.  Due to Ta’s kindness, we were invited inside a stilt house to roast cashew nuts picked right from the tree.

We were privileged to see a wedding, where they asked us in closer to take photos of the bride and groom.  And, we also saw/followed a funeral procession for a while.  Richard, a person we were with, said we almost had “hatches, matches and dispatches,” covered.

We had an extraordinary tour through one of the villages outside of Siem Reap, and we were fortunate enough to float on the Tonle Sap River (which in itself is a crazy thing–yep, I’m a nerd!).  None of this experience would have been logistically possible for us without our guide, Ta.  He really made the day one we’ll never forget.

The second half of the day we were at another UNESCO Site, Beng Mealea.  This temple has collapsed walls, and jungle-ish overgrowth that gives it an appeal unlike the other temples we saw in Cambodia.  We were able to climb on the walls and take pathways that would definitely not have been acceptable in the bubble wrapped North American tourism sector.  It was pretty fantastic.  See for yourself…

Mekong River Trip

Mekong River
Mekong River
We decided to do the first trip on the Mekong to get away from the hustle of the Ho Chi Minh City for the day.  We booked a tour to take us to one of the floating markets.  Now, when I say floating market, I picture ladies with conical hats in boats selling flowers and pineapples etc…NOPE!  This was a HUGE out on the open water, with large boats, floating market.  It was like wholesale for the tiny markets–basically the Costco of the floating markets, and definitely not as visually appealing, but still cool to see.  Because there are so many boats, merchants display whatever they’re selling at the top of poles.  You see the veggie you like dangling way up in the air, and you know that’s the boat you want to see.  FYI: Buyers had to make some serious purchases of serious quantity.
Mekong River Boats

The tour also took us through the process of making puffed rice, rice paper/wraps, coconut candy, and fed us a bizarro lunch, complete with live traditional Vietnamese singing.   The fish looks kind of disturbing in the picture, but it was “crusted” with puffed rice, and was actually tasty.  The fresh Vietnamese spring rolls were not my favourite, but Jon ate them–cucumber, pineapple, fish and all!

Our Boat for the dayFor me, the most interesting part of the day were the stilt houses on the delta, and the different styles of housing, methods of fishing, and strategies for gardening we saw.

Seeing a different lifestyle, and how it all just falls together made the day trip worth doing, even if being on a tour was slightly cheesy.

 

Happy Travels,
~j

I <3 Cambodia!

Today could be the best day of our trip so far. The day was supposed to involve a boat trip to a fishing village of Kompong Khleang, lunch, a car trip for about an hour to the Beng Mealea Temple to tour there for an hour, and then back to the hotels for 6:00pm.

We started at 6:45am with our guide, Ta, picking us up at the guesthouse we are staying at. Ta asked if we needed anything, so he took us to the market to buy bug spray which we forgot to pack. We picked up one other couple, Richard and Pauline, and headed out to the Tonle Sap Lake. Along the way we passed through the flood plain of the Tonle Sap where all of the houses are on stilts. Ta was super informative, and also really keen on giving us an authentic Cambodian experience with genuine hospitality.

We stopped to have bamboo filled with rice, coconut milk, some sugar and salt and some black beans for breakfast from a roadside “shop.” Next food experience was Lotus seeds. A woman was selling them, and Ta asked if we wanted to try them. He bought us each a pod of seeds to eat. They taste like fresh peas from the garden. We also saw some kids set up like a lemonade stand on the side of the road. We asked what they were selling, so Ta stopped and bought us some of the fruit. I don’t know how to spell the name, but they looked like yellow/orange figs that peel open to reveal a super sticky, SUPER sour apricot like fruit with several large pits. Ta bought all of the fruit from the kids. He said they were so excited.

While driving we saw a funeral procession which we followed for a while, and then we saw a wedding which guests were inviting us in to take photos. That seemed really weird to me. We saw tons of adorable little kids. They are super keen on seeing their photo on the camera. My display screen was a smudgy mess from them pointing out themselves in the photos. My God were they cute though!

And, the next random food experience-Ta asked if we had tried cashew fruit since we had been in Cambodia. The 4 of us were pretty sure he meant cashew nut, but no there is an actual fruit like an apple that grows off of the nut. He said it wasn’t really the right region, but if we saw a tree he would stop. So we did! We literally invaded some random yard to check out the tree.

The fruit looks like a cashew nut attached to a small pepper-shaped, orange-coloured apple. The fruit is kind of mushy, not crisp. It is very juicy, but at the same time it dries out your mouth-quite an odd flavour sensation really. The home owner was quite happy to have “barang” (foreigner) company. She let Ta use the fire in the kitchen to roast the cashews for us.

While they were roasting we sat in the stilt house with the woman, her daughter, her neighbour, her kids etc etc. It was pretty crazy. The neighbour was 42 years old; she has 11 kids, her oldest child was 28-her youngest 5 months! She asked Ta how many kids we have, and when I said none, she offered me the baby, because “who is going to look after me when I’m old?”

We finally ended up at Beng Mealea where we climbed through the Temple. This is one of the few unrestored “jungle” temples. FYI: there is no fricken way the tour would happen in Canada. We were able to walk on roof tops and wall tops of the crumbled temple. Loved it.

Afterwards, Ta told us about some of his other tours and projects. He dropped us downtown at about 7:15pm so we could easily find somewhere to eat dinner. He also gave us his card and said if we needed anything, help, directions, information anything, to give him a call. He also gave us a map and made sure we knew how to get back to the guesthouse. I have more about Ta, but can’t possibly fit it all in. He was an incredibly inspiring person. I’m sure I will be talking to him again some day. For sure.

Sent from my BlackBerry device on the Rogers Wireless Network

Observations on Americana

I’m not inspired to write this entry. I’ve moved on to thinking about the next trip, and these last little bits are just so random that it makes any remotely coherent writing nearly impossible. But, this could be the last Yellowstone entry, which is great because I already have so many other things to include. Here are the last observations from our half-way across the country road trip.

Buffalo crossing signI was so happy to find the Buffalo Crossing sign to add to the photo collection! In all of Yellowstone, there is only ONE that we saw. The irony is that there wasn’t a buffalo for miles around the sign; they most certainly were everywhere else. We found the sign as we were leaving the park on the last day. Road signs included, there are quite a few differences between Canada and the US that are easily noticed when driving through the United States. None of these differences is a bad thing (well except for one which we’ll get to!)

M sign Overt Patriotism abounds in the US. Not to say that Canadians aren’t patriotic, we just don’t generally plaster the Canadian flag anywhere and everywhere (well, except in Falkland. Maybe they’re a little nutty?). In addition to flags everywhere, each little town along the way had a huge letter on a hillside somewhere on the edge of town, like a teeny tiny Hollywood sign to celebrate the town, but with only the first letter. I can’t remember where the photo of the M is from, but you get the point.

Wade Magers and Jesse Allen Another difference–elected law enforcement. In BC, Sheriffs serve primarily with the court system. They’re involved with jury selection and with transporting prisoners to court cases etc. Whereas, in the US, the Sheriff is seen as the highest member of law enforcement, and is elected by the county he/she serves. As you can see, Wade Magers and Jesse Allen were running for Lincoln County Sheriff** (Kudos to you Wade Magers for winning by over 1000 votes.) Which also brings about the use of the word “County”. Seriously, I bet less than 1 in 10 Canadians could tell you which county they live in. We never use that term. Ever.

The one sick difference–white gravy at breakfast. Biscuits and gravy=wrong! You would be hard pressed to find that in any breakfast/brunch buffet in BC. Vile! And non-sweetened Iced Tea–why would anyone want plain, tasting-like-newspaper-ink actual cold brewed tea?

testy festyWe did see another food item that was particularly interesting. Anyone up for attending the Testicle Festival event next year? Their slogan “You’ll have a ball! If you miss it, you’re nuts.” Klassy with a capital K.
And there were plenty of “interesting” attractions in the small towns we drove through. How about the Jackalope Exhibit?

adopt a highwayThere were literally thousands of Adopt a Highway signs. Every 2 miles for thousands and thousands of miles. I felt like I was being brain washed. Somehow they aren’t as noticeable here. The other uber-depressing marker that there were thousands of–little white crosses along the interstate that mark where someone has died.

And my all time favourite=Smokey Bear. I’ve never seen Smokey used on any fire prevention signs here. That would be awesome, and much more entertaining.
Smokey Bear

Happy Travels,
~j

**The campaign signs were everywhere. Jesse Allen Lincoln County Sheriff became quite the conversation topic. Imagine a made for TV movie staring Tom Selleck as Jesse Allen and some washed up wrestler (like the dude who was a Governor) as Wade Magers. They would have rival moustaches. Ooh, that would be good TV for the ancient demographic.

Wyoming: The Road Kill State

I don’t even know where to start with this entry. Maybe with some photos…

After we had driven through miles and miles of corn fields in Montana, the scenery in Wyoming was a welcomed change. Luckily, we managed to take the scenic route to Devil’s Tower which made a lot of difference. Most of these shots were taken from a moving vehicle, so don’t be too sad if they’re off kilter.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

We drive major highways all the time. Every day. Hwy 1, Hwy 5, Hwy 16, Hwy 97, etc etc. Even including all the driving in other countries, the number of times I’ve seen road kill prior to this trip is probably less than 20. In Wyoming, that number is probably about 1500, and I’m not exaggerating. Why the hell is there so much road kill on the I-90? So disheartening.

Bet you really wanted to know this—in many States and Provinces it is legal to collect and eat road kill. Seriously. Animals are collected (if they’re not too smashed up) and distributed to churches, soup kitchens etc to make meals. People can keep the meat they find; different rules apply in different areas though. I suppose it makes sense? At least you know how and where the road kill happened to be if you’re the one who hits it? Is it really different than hunting game? The animal is still being killed, just with a vehicle, not a conventional weapon? But somehow I don’t think I’ll be trying roadkill stew any time soon.

Wikipedia even has a nutritional values chart. Yummy.

Hearts Café

Someone on a TripAdvisor forum had posted about Hearts Café. Jon knew I’d make him stop there as soon as he read about it. I’m a sucker for charity, especially one that helps women and children, so I couldn’t possibly say no.

 Hearts Café is in Ollantaytambo, in one of the corners of the Plaza de Armas square. It is a small unassuming building, but I know it does amazing things for all sorts of people. Let me tell you, this little place moved me to tears. The story of the café’s origin and founder, Sonia Newhhouse, is just insane. It proves that one person really can make a tremendous difference. I’ve added the text from The West Australian Today article featuring the café:

76 Year Old British Woman who lost her heart in the Peruvian Andes
by Chris Olney, The West Australian Newspaper
June 21, 2007

There’s a small cafe in the corner of the plaza at Ollantaytambo in the Sacred Valley, high in the Peruvian Andes, that offers a surprising selection of food.

Besides the best cappuccino in the valley, there’s quarter pounder veggie burgers, lasagna and farmhouse chicken casserole. Not the usual Andean fare.

But the food is not the only surprise at Hearts Cafe.

The driving force at Hearts is Sonia Newhouse, a 76 year old British woman who five years ago decided to cut her ties with the UK and travel to Peru. She arrived in Lima in 2002 with all her possessions packed into two suitcases.

“It was liberating,” she said. “I had no latchkey , no car. I had never been to Peru and I soon realised the first thing I needed to do was learn the language, so I enrolled in a Spanish School.”

Fellow students encouraged her to travel to Cusco, the ancient capital of the Incas. After 2 years, altitude sickness (Cusco is 3450m above sea level) forced her to move to the Sacred Valley, which is a few hundred metres lower than Cusco. There she became involved with the women living in six villages which make up the community of Huaran.

“I was shocked at how poor they are and how few resources they have,’ Mrs Newhouse said. “I decided I wanted to help them become more self sufficient and independent.”

“I formed a working group and asked them what they needed most”

“Of all the things they need they thought only of their children. They wanted a nursery school. It was very humbling”.

The women told her that a Spanish-language nursery school, or pre-primary, would give their children the chance to learn Spanish before attending Government Schools. They only know the native dialect, Quechua, at home. If the children could not speak Spanish they were at a disadvantage from their first day at school.

A mud hut has been allocated for a nursery school in Canchacancha, one of the six villages, catering for about 40 children. But the school needs a teacher and equipment.

That’s where Hearts Cafe comes in. The money raised by selling meals, tea and coffee will help pay for the nursery school. It’s a big ask. Mrs Newhouse estimates $US20,000 $23,600 a year is needed.

Although she has never run a cafe, Mrs Newhouse is a nutritionist and in the 1980s set up one of the first factories in London producing frozen vegetarian meals. She rented a shop in Ollantaytambo and opened Hearts in March. After seven weeks she had raised 1900 sols (about $480).

“I decided to spend this on much needed medicines for the women,” she said. “Many have serious gynaecological problems. We desperately need volunteer doctors and nurses.”

Mrs Newhouse is training local people to cook and run the cafe, which provides another source of income for families. But she spends every day there to make sure things run smoothly.

Ollantaytambo is en route to the Inca Trail and Machu Picchu, and as the tourist season gets into full swing there is little doubt the cafe will do a roaring trade.

 Hearts Cafe Ollantaytambo PeruWe stopped to eat at the café on the way to Aguas Calientes and on the way back to Cusco. Both times the food was great. Our server was super friendly, and he remembered us from our first visit. I only wish I’d been more prepared, and had brought school supplies or clothing with me instead of just a financial donation.

The NGO, Living Heart Association, is not a hand-out organization. They focus on education and self-help in the projects they’re running. So far, the café is responsible for a water purification project, a home for abused women and abandoned children, and medical support for people living in the Sacred Valley area. The café focuses on Educational Support, Nutrition Issues and Family Planning. They provide breakfast and lunch to 400 school children and abandoned elderly Peruvians every day!

Living Heart focuses on sustainable activities like growing vegetables in scholastic gardens. How many schools in North America have an organic garden on school grounds?! (Really, the kids here are fed nuggets and tater tots, or something equally vile, and have no clue how or where real wholesome food comes from.)

If you’re thinking of visiting Peru, or know someone who is, please tell them about this little place. It is truly a gem. Also, if you want to send anything to Sonia at Hearts Café the address is:

Sonia Newhouse
c/o Hearts Café
Plaza de Armas, Ollantaytambo
Cusco, Perú

Donations of school supplies, medicine, clothing etc are all needed. ps: Packages cannot weigh over 5kg, and all clothing must look clean and new or will be confiscated by customs. If you want to contact Sonia e-mail hearts.cafe@hotmail.com

 

Taquile

Taquile Lake Titicaca PeruFrom the floating islands, we boated another couple hours to the island of Taquile. Once the boat docked, we had to climb this rock pathway to the top of the island. The tourists were way slow, and the locals were practically running up the hill. Gotta love the altitude! I’m sure the people from Florida that were with us were hurting coming from sea level. Climbing down the 550+ stairs back to the dock on the other side of the island was much easier.
Taquile is a UNESCO Masterpiece of Oral and Intangible Heritage to Humanity for the textile work done on the island. The men knit and the women weave as normal every day activity regardless of age. We bought some of the “traditional” chullo hats. The sales centre was like a collective or co-op with each hat being tagged with a number of the person who made it. I’m guessing that each person receives a portion of the money and a portion goes to a collective. At least that’s what I’m hoping.

We were able to wander the island for a while before we had a traditional lunch of trout, lima beans, and rice. The small bottled water on Taquile was the most expensive in all of Peru–about $3. But, considering that it had to be shipped from the mainland, and then a porter had to carry it from the boat port to the top of the island, it only makes sense!

Everyone we saw on the island was traditionally dressed. The ladies and young girls all wore a black woolen shawl. Apparently this is not a religious garment, but a functional one for the weather. The temperature varies greatly from sun to shade due to the altitude. The black garment absorbs heat, and keeps the wearer warmer in the shade. Also, the women only spoke in a whisper as they were very shy. Even when trying to sell their handy crafts, they would ask in a whisper.
Experiencing this unique island was a great way to spend the day.
Happy Travels,
~j

El Sabor del Peru

zucaritasSince we’ve been home, I’ve been asked a lot if we tried any interesting foods in Peru. Well, what do you consider interesting? I like to go to outdoor markets, supermarkets, vending machines, snack stores etc and look at the stuff they’ve got vs the stuff we’ve got. For example, the chicken halves with no packaging, actual chicken colour (not bleached like here), all stacked on top of each other in the meat display counter. Or, the different but same cereals and snacks. Like the Zucaritas to the left. Look familiar? Too bad the name to me looks like “Sugaries” or “The Sugareds”. I don’t know how well a cereal called “Sugaries” would sell in Canada, but at least Kellogg’s is being honest!

inca kolaAnd then we also like to try stuff that is the same everywhere–like McDonalds and Coca Cola. Now, before you go all cuckoo and say, “You go to McDonald’s when you’re in another country, why bother?” It is kind of interesting. There are always different menu items and soft drinks. In Paris they had Peach Iced Tea and in Peru they had Inca Kola.

They also had the McBacon, and the McNifico, and they don’t serve hash browns with breakfast. You could also get a ton of different sauces. Mayonnaise and Ketchup are available in the little pumps at the condiment counter, and so are a several kinds of hot sauces, salsas and in Mexico City, even chopped up jalapeño peppers.
 Colca SourWe did try other things besides McDonalds! We had 3 meals on our Colca Canyon trip. There were all sorts of potato dishes, Alpaca, Lima Beans, Rice, Soups, Chicken, Plantains, etc. We tried everything. (Little tidbit for you–the potato is from Peru; it was the primary food source of the Incans.) At one restaurant we had Colca Sours which is a Peruvian drink made from Cactus Fruit, Lemon/Lime juice, egg whites and some other stuff. They were quite tasty. We had trout from Lake Titicaca on Taquile Island. And, we went to a fast food place in Lima called Bembos. It was sweet because they used REAL ingredients on the chicken burger I got. REAL Edam cheese and a whole wheat bun. Amazing!

NB: Not my photo, and I can't remember where I got it from to give credit.
NB: Not my photo, and I can’t remember where I got it from to give credit.

We didn’t try Cuy. I just couldn’t. Maybe if it was served in a way that didn’t look like a dead rat it would be a little easier to stomach. I didn’t see anyone eating Cuy anywhere we went. But, we did run into some people who had wanted to try it but ended up choosing Alpaca instead as the Cuy was ridiculously expensive. FYI: Many families in the Andean highlands still raise Guinea Pigs for food; they’re also part of the folk lore and medicine of the region.

We also didn’t try this dish that we found in a tented market in Cusco. Do you cook cow snout with or without the teeth?
cow snout