Tag Archives: food

Mexico, North America

Mexico: Visiting a Friend in the Riviera Maya

This January we decided to go visit a friend who had been working as a SCUBA instructor in Playa Del Carmen, Mexico.  So, with 2 days notice, we booked flights, and took off for the week to hang out on the Mayan Riviera.

Playa del Carmen is about 45 minutes away from Cancun.  We easily hopped on the airport shuttle, and met our friend Andrew at the bus station on Quinta Avenida.  (FYI: Quinta Avenida is one of the busiest most obnoxious shopping streets ever–more on that later!)

As neither of us are really “beach” people, we needed a plan to enjoy the most of our stay in the resort filled paradise.  We quickly learned how to take the colectivo busses (5 pesos each) so we could travel to and from Andrew’s apartment.  With three of us, traveling by car was a cheap convenient option for longer distances, so we decided to rent a car to explore some of the sites in the state of Quintana Roo.

CHICHÉN ITZÁ
UNESCO Designation at Chichen Itza
UNESCO Designation at Chichen Itza

Chichen Itza is one of the New 7 Wonders of the World AND a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  Lucky for us, these Mayan ruins were close enough to Playa Del Carmen that we were able to make a day trip to the site.  We hopped in the car and quickly learned to spot the GIANT Mexican Speedbumps AKA “topes” along the way!

El Castillo, Kukulcan Pyramid - Chichen Itza Mexico
El Castillo, Kukulcan Pyramid – Chichen Itza Mexico

El Castillo, the iconic Kukulcan pyramid of the Yucatan, is definitely the main attraction of Chichen Itza.  The structure has all sorts of astronomical importance for when and how the sun hits during equinoxes and solstices.   Google it up if you’re interested.

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On the way from Chichen Itza back to our home base, we stopped in the sweet little colonial town of Valladolid.  It would have been nice if we’d have had more time to explore all that the town had to offer as it was a super cute place.

People would have to sit face to face and have a conversation.
San Servacio Church, Valladolid
COBA

For our second day with the rental car, we decided to head to Coba.  Coba was the largest and most powerful Mayan city before the rise of Chichen Itza.  These Mayan Ruins also have the largest pyramid of the Yucatan Peninsula.  As a visitor, I enjoyed the atmosphere of Coba much more than Chichen Itza.  Though there were dozens more touts which is a definite draw back to any site, the pathways through the jungle, and the trees/shade made up for it.

The tallest pyramid on the Yucatan Peninsula.
La Iglesia, Coba
Maybe another time?
TULUM
Pelican - Tulum Beach
Pelican – Tulum Beach

We made it to the beach at Tulum, but due to time constraints missed visiting these ruins.  After having seen the two previous archeological sites, we weren’t super disappointed at missing Tulum.  The beach itself was beautiful.  Such fine sand, almost like confectionary sugar, and some pelicans bobbing along on the waves made me a happy gal.

The Caribbean Sea, Tulum
The Caribbean Sea, Tulum
BEST OF THE REST
Cruise Ship Cozumel
One of the many cruise ships plaguing the Cozumel coastline.

We were left with a few days to fill up, and I had heard great things about Cozumel from friends and coworkers.   Cozumel is a short ferry ride from Playa del Carmen, and is supposed to be a fun way to spend the day.

SUCH A  DISAPOINTMENT!

Cozumel is touts on steroids, and beyond that, it is horribly packed with cruise ship passengers.  Visiting Cozumel was a huge waste of time and money.  If you’re there for SCUBA, I’m sure you’d have a great time.  We did not.

After the shit-show of Cozumel, I was certain Xcaret would be a horrible experience as well.  We are not fans of zoos/aquariums in general.  The reviews online were utterly horrendous! Fortunately, I was pleasantly surprised.  For us, it was actually an alright facility.

Note: We did not participate in any of the water activities.  If you’re into snorkeling or swimming with dolphins/sting rays feel free.  That’s not my cup o’ tea.  Guaranteed my opinion would have changed to the negative had I taken part in any of those activities.

Scarlet Macaw - Xcaret
Scarlet Macaw – Xcaret

We were able to see baby Sea Turtles at various ages as part of the Sea Turtle Conservation program.  The Butterfly Garden was kind of neat.  We saw dozens and dozens of birds, parrots, macaws, flamingos etc.  Xcaret is part of conservation efforts for Scarlet Macaws.

Red Forehead Parrot – Xcaret
Flamingos at Xcaret

This vacation really was a different experience for us.  Typically, we don’t stay in one city for more than 3 or 4 days, and we’ve never had a host or home to settle in.  Being able to set a home base definitely made for a more enjoyable adventure in Mexico.

Mmmm tacos.
Mmmm tacos, before adding the delicious toppings.

We were able to experience several things that we would have missed out on otherwise–like using colectivos, going to the movies, eating at the same little taco stand, drinking Horchata, and even just relaxing in the evenings playing card games.

All in all it was an enjoyable winter interlude in Mexico.  Thanks Andrew for the hospitality!

~j

Israel, Middle East, Palestine

Palestine: The West Bank

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Given the most recent Israeli/Gaza conflict, some back ground information is probably critical.  Let’s face it, Israel and the Middle East don’t get a lot of great press when it comes to safety and security.  Due to lack of interest, global awareness or even opportunity, some people don’t have any knowledge of WHY the conflict even exists.  Here is a very brief explanation:

While I can’t claim to be an expert in international politics in any way, I can tell you what we saw.  For background, we visited the West Bank–not Gaza.  There is a difference!  We crossed at a pedestrian only checkpoint, as most are, so we either had to rent a car, or hire a guide with a vehicle.   Navigating the road restrictions was more than we wanted to bargain for by ourselves, and we were forbidden from driving our rental car in the West Bank.  As a result, we hired a guide for the day.

Warning
There are 3 areas, A, B and C. A is controlled by PNA, B is patrolled by PNA, but enforced by IDF and C is IDF.

Most news footage of the Middle East is typically of missiles, rubble, and agonizing grief. Mainstream media does more to misinform than it does to enlighten when it comes to Israel/Palestine conflict, and the portrayal of the people living in these areas.    I didn’t feel unsafe in any way where we were.  There was one freaky road sign, that Salwa explained to us. Israeli Defence Forces (IDF)and Palestinian National Authority (PNA) control three different areas, A, B and C, in the West Bank.   FYI: Hamas controls Gaza.  HUGE difference.  Google it if you like.

Here is some information about our guide, Salwa, an actual human being from Palestine.  Salwa is a Palestinian woman, who was born in Colombia.  She grew up the West Bank, and now lives with her husband and daughters near Beit Jala.  Her family lived in Detroit, MI for a while when her Palestinian husband was working there as a university professor.  She’s a witty  woman who speaks several languages. During the course of the day she spoke English, Arabic, French and Spanish.

Salwa is a Catholic, not a Muslim.  It always seems to be portrayed that all Palestinians practice Islam.  (Thanks network news!)  She explained to us that religious faith is listed on identification papers.  I asked what would happen if a person doesn’t believe in anything?  She answered that it isn’t possible to have a choice of “no religion.”  For the sake of profiling, if the person selects none, they are by default listed as the same faith as their parents.

Salwa was willing to answer our questions about day to day life under occupation in The West Bank.  Let’s begin the recap of the day…

Rachel’s Crossing – Israeli Check-Point

We crossed from Jerusalem at Rachel’s Crossing.  This is the closest crossing to Bethlehem, Nativity Square, and some of the churches and monasteries we wanted to see.

Rachel’s Tomb Crossing, Israeli Side
Rachel’s Tomb Crossing, Palestinian Side
Rachel’s Tomb Crossing, Palestinian Side
Rachel’s Tomb Crossing, Palestinian Side
Rachel’s Tomb Crossing, Palestinian Side

There is a stark contrast between the Israeli side and the Palestinian side.  In a conflicted way, I was loving the art on the wall.

Orthodox Monasteries

We arranged to visit the Mar Saba Monastery in the Kidron Valley, and St George’s Monastery in Wadi Qelt, as well as the Monastery of the Temptation in Jericho.  All three are Greek Orthodox Monasteries.  Salwa actually thought we were Orthodox because we wanted to see them.  That’s funny!  FYI:  As females, Salwa and I weren’t allowed into Mar Saba Monastery.  We waited outside while a young kid came out to offer us water and cookies.

Mar Saba Monastery, Kidron Valley The West Bank
Female Pilgrims outside Mar Saba Monastery
Kidron Valley The West Bank
St George’s Monastery Wadi Qelt, The West Bank
St George’s Monastery Wadi Qelt, The West Bank
Living quarters, Mount of Temptation, Jericho
Living quarters, Mount of Temptation, Jericho
Jericho

Jericho is thought to be the world’s lowest lying,  oldest, continually inhabited city.  It is approximately 850 feet below Sea Level. There have been archaeological evidence of settlements up to 10,000BC. That’s pre-pottery folks!  Another fun fact–Jericho has the World Record for the longest cable car below Sea Level.  We stopped in Jericho for lunch which included Knafeh, a traditional Palestinian desert.

Jericho Cable Car
Sea Level, The West Bank
Manger Square, Bethlehem
UNESCO Designation
UNESCO Designation, Church of the Nativity Bethlehem

The Church of the Nativity in Bethlehem is traditionally thought to be the birthplace of Jesus.  As of 2012, the basilica is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  We visited the Grotto of the Nativity, and saw the 14 pointed silver star that marks the spot of Jesus’ birth.  Unlucky for you, the photos were a blur.  We were being rushed by a crowd, and Salwa was being shushed by one of the Orthodox Monks.  (She said he usually gives her a hard time for being too sassy  when she’s there.)

Mosaic Floor, Church of the Nativity
Mosaic Floor, Church of the Nativity
The Wall

I started this entry with photos of the Wall, it is called a Security Fence, a  Separation Fence, an Anti-Terrorism Wall, a Racial Segregation Wall and an Apartheid Wall.   Prior to even planning a trip to Israel, I saw a news story about the wall and wanted more information.  A couple of the books that I found helpful were  A Wall in Palestine and Behind the Wall: Life, Love and Struggle in Palestine.   There are so many awful, infuriating stories to be told.  Stories of separation, resilience, desperation, and strength of spirit.

I had been asking Salwa a lot of questions about the wall and living under occupation.  She actually stopped the car, started talking to a man who graciously invited us into his home so that we could see how construction of the wall affected his family. It was heart-breaking!  Here is what we saw from his balcony.

The wall protecting Route 60 – Israeli Only highway through the West Bank
The view from their deck. Where the wire fence is currently is where the wall was supposed to be built–right over the family’s tiny garden that is in ruins now.
This portion protects the Israeli Only highway through the West Bank

Essentially, the wall serves to protect one side, and imprison another.  Courtesy of googling “effectiveness of the separation barrier” Israeli statistics say that between 2000 and 2003 there were 73 suicide bomber attacks, and from 2003 to 2006 there were only 12.  With 521 attacks stopped during that same period.    That’s A LOT.

Both sides are being driven to desperation.  There has to be a better way.
~j

Israel, Middle East

Nazareth: Shawarma & The Basilica of the Annunciation

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If you want to know where to find the BEST Shawarma in Israel, look no further than Nazareth.  This historic biblical town may be full of crazy drivers, winding roads, and hoards of Ethiopian pilgrims, but they 100% know a thing or two about perfecting this delicious food!

Let’s begin the story with why were in Nazareth for lunch  in the first place.    Nazareth, “the Arab capital of Israel” is home to The Basilica of the Annunciation.  The basilica was consecrated in 1969.  It was built on top of 4 previous churches at the same site, and over the grotto thought to be the Virgin Mary’s house.  So, at least 5 churches later is the present day basilica in Nazareth.

The walls are adorned with artwork from all over the world that represents the Virgin and Child.  I was loving the variation on a theme.  See for yourself…

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After touring the building and grounds, we wandered on some of the surrounding streets.   Kazanova Kiosk was the perfect spot to grab something to eat quickly before getting back on the road.  There is a great little seating area just to the right of this little gem of a place.  Super quick service, and so, so delicious!   I really wasn’t expecting much for tasty options so close to the Basilica in a touristed area.  (The customer before us paid in US dollars which is usually a sign to run in the other direction.)

Shawarma Map Nazareth
The not so secret location for you!

If you’re in Nazareth, and  you’re looking for some divine shawarma, this is you’re place!  Tell them I said “Hi!”
~j

Jordan, Middle East

Wadi Rum: Camping with Bedouins

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We arrived at Wadi Rum Village by bus from Wadi Musa.  A German girl we met in Petra was on the bus with us.  She was traveling solo, and had some really interesting stories to tell.  We agreed to meet after our Bedouin camping experiences to travel to Aqaba together.

Camel in the backyard
Camel in the backyard

Wadi Rum Village is like no place I have ever seen before.  Picture a wild west town constructed of cinder blocks, set in present day, in the heart of the desert, with some traditional Bedouin goat-hair tents thrown in for good measure.  Some of the houses had camels in the backyard, because where else would they be?  We actually saw a dead cat discarded beside the trash pile, as well as this EPIC set up.  Such a quirky place that we didn’t have near enough time to explore!

Safety First, Wadi Rum Village
Safety First? More like Safety NEVER!

Best of all, the Bedouin hospitality and warmth, combined with a jovial attitude made for a great start to our Wadi Rum experience. We were told to meet our guide Attallah Al-Blwi at the house with the blue door.  When we eventually found the place, I asked if there was a washroom. There was one just across the street.  This was the traditional ceramic hole in the floor with foot “perches”, and a scoop of water from a bucket to flush.  (Really, facilities like this aren’t uncommon, but just so you know what the situation was!)

Riding Camels Wadi Rum Desert
Two of our French Friends in the lead.

While we were waiting we were given sweet Bedouin tea and even free wi-fi which was nice to be able to check e-mail.  Our group consisted of us and 3 French women who were a great trio to hang out with for the day.  The 5 of us opted for a short few-hour camel ride, then a “jeep” tour through the desert before heading to the camp for the night.   The camel ride was actually pretty fun, and mildly terrifying.  Thankfully my camel didn’t bite me!

Wadi Rum had some of the most awe-inspiring vitas of our whole Middle East trip.  Our driver, Halif, took us to Jebel Umm Fruth Rock Bridge, Jebel Burdah Rock Bridge, Lawrence Springs, the Lawrence of Arabia House and to see petroglyphs in Khaz-ali Canyon.

Our “Jeep” was actually a Toyota
Camel Wadi Rum Desert
Lawrence of Arabia House, Wadi Rum Desert
Petroglyphs
Petroglyphs
Camels Wadi Rum Desert
Zarb Dinner with Attallah of Bedouin Lifestyle Camp
Jabal Burdah Rock Bridge Wadi Rum Desert
Wadi Rum Desert

Since Jon had done 99.9% of the planning for the trip, I wasn’t sure what to expect when we arrived at the camp.  The set-up was way more posh than I had been expecting, and actually quite cute.  For dinner we had Zarb.  I am thankful it wasn’t Mansaf.

Sunset over Wadi Rum Desert
Sunset over Wadi Rum Desert

Doing this tour was definitely worth it.  After all, it isn’t every day I get to ride a camel through the Jordanian desert!   I’ll be sure to cross that off my bucket list.

Have you crossed anything off of your list lately?
~j

Jordan, Middle East

Madaba: The City of Mosaics

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As I mentioned before, we arrived very late to Madaba.  We were awake to hear the first call to prayer (around 5:00am) partially due to jet lag.  Listening to the tune and thinking of all those it means something to is a rather reflective way to start the day.  I love it!  Sing the adhan from the minaret Muezzin.  It’s all good! (Note to self: must find out what they’re saying because it is different wording at different times of the day!)

We stayed at St. George’s Church, the Church of the Map.  This is an unassuming Greek Orthodox Church from the outside, but actually houses the oldest existing map of the Holy Land.  The map features significant biblical places, the Dead Sea and Jerusalem amongst others.  It basically covers the area from Egypt to Lebanon.

Exterior of St George’s Church, Madaba Jordan
Hanging on the wall of the lobby
Iconography inside the Church of the Map, St George’s Church, Madaba Jordan
The Mosaic Map, Church of the Map, Madaba Jordan
The Mosaic Map, Church of the Map, Madaba Jordan

The mosaicist conceived and carried out his masterwork with great topographical skill and biblical knowledge. The Madaba Mosaic map is deemed by some scholars to be the best topographic representation ever done before modern cartography.

from: http://www.christusrex.org

For our first day in Jordan, we explored the city, enjoyed some phenomenal food at Haret Jdoudna, and just took in the sights.  Madaba has been called The City of Mosaics.  There is no shortage of shops selling all sorts of hand-made tile pieces.  I was particularly enamoured with the painted Ostrich Eggs, but didn’t know if they’d make it through the rest of the trip in one piece, or be a problem with customs on return.  Some were hideous, some were fantastic.  We ended up buying two small pieces of mosaic in Madaba.  While speaking to the shop keeper, we learned that he had a brother in Canada, living not far from us.  Small world!  Everyone we spoke with was extraordinarily friendly and welcoming.  Jordanians have to be some of the most hospitable people on the planet.

Salad at Haret Jdoudna, Madaba Jordan
Delicious Hummous at Haret Jdoudna, Madaba Jordan
Fresh Made Pita at Haret Jdoudna, Madaba Jordan

To make our way from Madaba to Wadi Musa, we ended up hiring a driver to take us and another couple along the King’s Highway to do some sight-seeing along the way.  We drove through the Wadi Mujib Nature Reserve for the most part as it covers a lot of the area.  Eventually we stopped at the ruins of al-Kerak castle.  This Crusader castle is one of the largest in the area.  It is preserved really well, and we were able to wander around the site for quite a while.

Bedouin camp on the way from Madaba to Wadi Musa
Al Kerak Castle Crusader Castle, Jordan
Al Kerak Castle Crusader Castle, Jordan
Al Kerak Castle Crusader Castle, Jordan
Fields on the way from Madaba to Wadi Musa
View of Wadi Mujib on the way to Wadi Musa

On our arrival to Wadi Musa, we decided that we wanted to experience Petra at Night prior to our first daylight visit. Word on the street that if you see Petra before the night-time visit it isn’t as impressive.  I’m glad we decided to do the Petra at Night first, as it would be true.

Stay tuned for more from Petra,
~j

New Zealand, Oceania

Dunedin: Home of the World’s Steepest Street

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Dunedin, at the Southern end of the South Island of New Zealand, was our last city before heading back to Auckland for flights home.  While there, I was fortunate to be able to catch up with an old friend that I’ve known since I was 5 years old.  He’s been living in New Zealand with his wife and 2 children for quite a while now.

Dunedin is an awesome city.  There’s something for everyone–architecture, nature, cuisine, history.  It really was a great place to spend our last few days in NZ.

Dunedin Railway Station
St Joseph’s Cathedral, Dunedin NZ
First Church of Otago, Dunedin New Zealand

If you’ve spent any time with Fazh recently, I guarantee you’ve heard about Baldwin Street.  Baldwin Street was among one of the many attractions of historic Dunedin that we were able to visit.  According to the Guinness Book of World Records, this street is the steepest street in the world.  At its steepest section the gradient is 1 in 2.86.  So for ever 2.86 meters traveled horizontally, the elevation changes by one meter.

Baldwin Street, The Steepest Street in the World
Baldwin Street, The Steepest Street in the World

Every year there are people, CRAZY people who run to the top and back during the “Baldwin Street Gutbuster.”  And, for annual charity events, up to 30,000 chocolate candies that look like orange gumballs are rolled down the street.  Each of the orange “Jaffas” is purchased for charity prior to the big event.  Prizes go to the person whose Jaffa reaches the bottom first.  That’s about the only good thing that candy would be for.  Chocolate and orange=gross!  The video isn’t the best quality, but it’ll do.

We climbed to the top of Baldwin Street…IN THE RAIN, and gladly collected our certificates of achievement when we returned to the tiny shop at the bottom.

Have you encountered any odd World Records in your travels?
~j

North America, Oceania

Queenstown

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Sparrow on Toi Toi GrassQueenstown seemed to be the adventure sport hub of our New Zealand trip.  It is very similar in feeling to Banff or Jasper.  Lots of little shops to check out, but also lots of gorgeous scenery and outdoor activity.   Fazh was most excited about going paragliding.  He saw them, and instantly wanted to go.  Literally, we hadn’t even checked-in or put our bags away.  I guess when you know, you know!

We also managed to check “see a Kiwi bird” off his list by visiting the Kiwi Birdlife Park.  Queenstown is also home to Fergburger, a burger place with a cult like following.  Seriously, the line-up was out the door, constantly.  I must say it was delicious.  Here are some photos of our time in Queenstown.

Kiwi Birdlife Park, Queenstown NZ
Skyline Gondola, Queenstown NZ
Fergburger–One tasty stop for lunch!
Fazh’s Ferg coffee with a little meringue treat
Fazh and his paraglide partner Dean
Fazh Paragliding
Fergburger, Queenstown NZ
Fazh Paragliding
New Zealand, Oceania

Hot Springs, Haka & Hangi Oh My!

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No visit to Rotorua would be complete without a trip to Te Whakarewarewa.  (Whaka for short, and the ‘Wh’ is pronounced as an ‘F’…true story!) My brother had visited years earlier in high school and was emphatic that the Hangi cooked corn was a must.  So funny!  The geothermal vents provide heat needed to steam and cook food which is actually quite tasty, but more of a novelty than a must do.

We spent the day visiting the Maori village, checking out the geothermal and cultural sites.  There was a performance that included information on traditional Maori clothing, tools, music, and a Haka, which Fazh loved.  Our park guide, Sandra, was great, even if she tried to introduce her self at the start of the tour as Te whakarewarewatangaoteopetauaawahiao.  (The full name of the site, loosely translated to: The gathering place for the war parties of Wahiao.)  And, now you can see why the village is called Whaka by the locals.

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Rotorua also provided us with the opportunity to cross a few “must-sees” off of Fazh’s list by visiting the Agrodome.  If you’ve been reading all along, you’ll know that he wanted to see a sheep sheering, a kiwi orchard and some logging industry site amongst several other things.  Logging was cut before we left.  Pun intended.  At least the other two were enjoyable.  The Agrodome was a thoroughly entertaining day at a fantastic facility.  The “sheep show” features 19 different kinds of sheep.  The farm is home to all types of animals–working sheep dogs, geese, ducks, Angora goats, llamas, alpacas, red and fallow deer, ostrich and emu.  Kiwi and feijoa fruit are grown on the organic farm, as well as apples, mandarin oranges and olives.

Merino crossing
Feijoa Fruit
Kiwi Fruit
Pukeko Bird
Angora Goats
Ostrich

Check out the photos, and see for yourself.

Happy travels,
~j

Jordan, Middle East

Happy Easter

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After 30+ hours of travel we finally arrived in Madaba, Jordan. When we arrived at 2am to the hostel/church we are staying at was crazy busy with beautiful lights and singing. At 2am! This was the service for Orthodox Easter. Happy Orthodox Easter everyone!

Madaba is interesting. It is the stuff of movies. Dusty, loads of traffic-some vehicles blasting Arabic techno music and most, if not all, blasting their horn, call to prayer 5 times a day, and rubble piled in vacant lots. There are men and women in traditional dress, and tons in everyday “regular” jeans and t-shirt wear, or business suits. There are men sitting around smoking hookah pipes and drinking tea out of fancy silver pots. Everyone has been really welcoming. Little kids on the street say hello and then giggle as they walk away with their parents.

We went to a restaurant for some Jordanian food for lunch. First, we see Ibrahim, a person who was featured on one of our favorite episodes of Departures. Of all the people, in all the world, what are the chances?!? He was super nice to us, and asked us to call when we make it to Petra. The sweet glorious lunch was some of the tastiest food ever. I have never had such delicious hummous in my life. The choices were “Mezze” which basically consist of small dishes (hot or cold) designed for sharing. The Mezze menu is like appies on steroids. Everything looked good except for the grilled lamb brain. We didn’t try that one.

Jet lag is kind of kicking my ass this morning. Waking up at 4am does have its advantages though. I was up before the call to prayer was given. And, we will have plenty of time to get ready for our 8am shuttle to Wadi Musa. Let’s hope the Dutch couple we are sharing with is nice!
Sent from my BlackBerry device on the Rogers Wireless Network

New Zealand, Oceania

Kia Ora from New Zealand!

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We’ve been traveling for a few days now. We made our way from Auckland to Otorohanga and Waitomo yesterday, and ended up spending the night in Hamilton. Today we traveled to Rotorua where we’ll be for the next couple days. So far we have seen some really amazing things, and met some really nice people.

A few things that are a little crazy…the price of food, that no where has normal brewed coffee, and that tips are refused like the money is contaminated.

Stay tuned for another update when internet is available again.