From Gibraltar and La Linea, we made our way to Seville in Southern Spain. I really, really enjoyed the city. The architecture is fantastic. Being third largest church in the world, the Seville Cathedral is opulent to say the least. As part of UNESCO World Heritage site with the Real Alcázar and the Arvhivo de Indias, it was definitely on my radar. The Alcázar has some of most beautiful and intricate tile work I’ve ever seen. They’re fantastic!
Here are some photos from our time in Seville:
La Giralda, the bell tower of the Seville Cathedral, is crowned with a bronze weathervane statue of Faith.
View of the Cathedral from the bell tower.
View of Seville from the bell tower
The Tomb of Christopher Columbus, Seville Cathedral
Replica of La Giralda in front of the Seville Cathedral
Peacock – we found this guy just walking along
Plaza d’España, Seville
Azulejos tile work at the Real Alcázar
Fancy Tile Work, Real Alcázar
Fancy Tile Work, Real Alcázar
Fancy Tile Work, Real Alcázar
Horseshoe arches of the Ambassadors’ Hall, Real Alcázar
Patio de las Muñecas, The Patio of the Dolls, Real Alcázar
Archways, Real Alcázar
Patio de las Doncellas, The Patio of the Maidens, Real Alcázar
Gardens of the Real Alcázar
Archways, Real Alcázar
Fancy Tile Work, Real Alcázar
UNESCO Designation, Real Alcázar
Fancy Tile Work, Real Alcázar
The Moorish minaret turned bell tower, La Giralda, Seville Cathedral
We have been to some magnificent churches in our travels–the iconic Sagrada Familia is no exception. As the most visited Barcelona attraction, there was no way we would miss seeing to this unfinished masterpiece. On our very first night of exploratory wanderings in Barcelona, we found ourselves at the Basilica.
Construction on the church started in 1882. Antoni Gaudí took over the project in 1883, and continued working tirelessly on the church until his death in 1926.
Gaudí by Subirachs
In 1936, a group of anarchists destroyed and burned the vast majority of Gaudí’s workshop and plans for the church. Work halted on the project for a period of time, and resumed again in the early 1950’s. As with anything in the public eye, there are opponents to the project who claim the intentions of Gaudí are not being honoured, and the at the project has become an abomination of his original ideas.
Even so, construction is still taking place over 130 years later by a dedicated group of architects. Completion of the Sagrada Familia is anticipated for 2026. This video shows what the completed Basilica will look like. (My apologies for the über-cheesy music.)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RcDmloG3tXU
Two facades of the church have been completed, the Nativity Façade and the Passion Façade. The third, the Glory Façade, is yet to be completed. Gaudí focused on the Nativity Façade, which is atypical of building a church, working on the exterior before the interior main structure is completed. He knew that others would be inspired by the beauty of the building, and continue construction after he had passed.
The Nativity Façade
The Nativity Façade, completed in 1905, was the only side close to completion in Gaudí’s lifetime.
The Nativity Facade, Sagrada Familia
From the three doors that represent faith, hope and charity to the cypress, the tree of life and universal sign of welcome, the whole façade is a hymn to the joy of creation for the birth of Jesus which is expressed in each and every detail.
From: Sagrada Familia informative plaque
No single picture could do this façade justice. The simultaneous enormity and intricate minutiae of Gaudí’s work make that an impossible task.
There are three entrances on this northeast side of the church representing Faith, Hope and Charity. This side of the church is lavishly decorated, and crammed full of symbolism.
The carved stone appears to be bursting with fresh blooms and new leaves, symbolic of the Nativity–life and joy and newness. Every little detail has been added with purpose. For example, even the bunches of grapes and ears of wheat, seemingly innocuous ornamentation, symbolize the Eucharist.
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Their upper parts are decorated with mosaics spelling out ‘Sanctus, Sanctus, Sanctus, Hosanna in Excelsis, Amen, Alleluia’. Asked why he lavished so much care on the tops of the spires, which no one would see from close up, Gaudí answered: ‘The angels will see them.
The towers are decorated with glittering glass letters, and the spires are topped with adorned with mosaics of Murano glass.
The Passion Façade
The two different design styles of the Nativity and the Passion are disparate, yet they fit together well. The ornate designs of the Nativity story are contrasted by the stark nature of the Passion Façade. This southwest side has been the cause of some controversy amongst Catalans. The sculptor, Joseph Maria Subirachs, used a much more angular approach than Gaudí’s typical flowing style. Subirachs also left crucified Jesus totally nude. (Oh the horrors! Hah!) But, this is a sore spot for many. I really liked the sculptures, and how they represent the Stations of the Cross.
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Subirachs pays tribute to Gaudí’s style with the shape of the Soldier’s helmets similar to the chimneys of Casa Milà. Also, the figure far left of the photo of Veronica holding her veil has the same profile as the sculpture of Gaudí by Subirachs.
The doors of the Passion Façade, also done by Subirachs, are the words of the gospels of Matthew and John cast in over 8000 bronze letters. The door contains a miniature of the cryptogram seen in the photo of Judas’ betrayal of Jesus.
The upper portion of the bronze doors of the Passion Façade
The Crypyogram by Joseph Maria Subirachs
Bronze door of the Passion Façade
Cryptogram combinations
The cryptogram has multiple combinations of numbers that always add up to 33, the age of Christ in the moment of this death. There are two numbers repeated 10 and 14; if they are added together the sum is 48, the same result as the addition of the letters INRI (Iesus Nazarenus, Rex Iudaeorum) according to the numerical order of the Latin alphabet.
The Interior
Beautiful isn’t it?
Walking into the Sagrada Familia is like being transported into a fanciful forest. The pillars, and the way the light filters through the stained glass windows is absolutely gorgeous. Everything has designed with the inspiration of nature.
The pillars are of different shapes and designs, as well as several different types of stone. The combined effect is otherworldly. A lot of this portion of the interior was completed as recently as 2010.
The stained-glass windows are reminiscent of watercolor paintings, and, in fact, are designed as watercolor paintings first by artist Joan Vila Grau before they are created in glass. He explained his intentions as:
For me it was necessary to create an atmosphere, a grand symphony of colour and light. When you go into a Gothic church, a cathedral or a monastery, the first thing you feel is the atmosphere. After that you are aware that there are windows of different colours and thematic representations. But what is important, before everything else, is the atmosphere that is created by the colours – and if the windows have a theme – well why not? But it is not necessary. In the windows of the Sagrada Família there is no figurative iconography but an atmosphere has been created. from: http:www.vidimus.org
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Since returning home, we’ve watched the documentary “Sagrada: The Mystery of Creation”. The film is a totally nerdy, but worth watching if you’re in for a slow-moving, yet informative couple of hours. I left with a feeling of confidence that the artists involved with the Sagrada Familia and its completion have embodied the essence of Gaudí’s vision, and are continuing to honor his life’s work right through to completion.
The Sagrada Familia, a UNESCO World Heritage site, as part of the Works of Antoni Gaudí, since 1984 is definitely worth visiting if you ever find yourself in Barcelona. Though the line ups are long, and some of the tower tours may be canceled due to inclement weather, it is well worth it. Save yourself time, and use the online booking options, and then plan to be awed. You won’t regret it!
We are alive and well in Barcelona. It has been quite the adjustment with the time and temperature this trip. Boo jet lag!
Going from semi-arid desert to 85 to 90% humidity takes some getting used to. Luckily, the weather has been good so far. We had a little light rain yesterday morning, but nothing umbrella-worthy.
Navigating the city has been easy. The metro is quick and efficient, although the tunnels are like standing in a disgusting sauna while waiting for the air conditioned cars. I’m sure 90% of the 90% humidity is actually sweat from the passengers. That’s disgusting!
For as easy as Barcelona is to navigate, it is one of the more difficult cities to actually see what we want to see. There is a lot of hurry up and wait, then stand in line. For example, wait in line 40 minutes to an hour only to book a time slot in 2 hours to come back to see the church, museum, or park. The volume of people definitely leaves a lot to be desired.
Yesterday we managed to visit Park Guell and see a lot of the Gaudi buildings around the city. Today we are out of the city in Montserrat. Montserrat is a mountain top town with a Benedictine Monastery. Sadly, it is overrun with people as well, but we are making the most of it. There’s an air tram and 2 funiculars to go along with the hiking trails. Who doesn’t love a funicular?!?
Tomorrow we are booked for the Sagrada Familia. We didn’t want to wait in line for an hour yesterday only to have to go back in 2 more hours, so we booked online, and will skip the waiting tomorrow.
Mount of Olives, a hill on the eastern side of Jerusalem, was the site of Christ’s betrayal in the Garden of Gethsemane. There are several churches commemorating events of Christ’s Agony on the Mount of Olives. Jewish cemeteries are a prominent feature on the hill. You’ll also find it is a GREAT place to view the Old City. There are some excellent views of the Dome of the Rock!
As we were without motorized transport for the day, we opted to do a guided walking tour on the Mount of Olives. For the photography, and of course the history, visiting the Mount of Olives is a good way to pass the afternoon. Here are some of the churches and sites we saw on our visit.
Jerusalem is Israel’s largest city by surface, but has less population than Tel Aviv. Overstating the historical significance of Jerusalem would be difficult. The Old City of Jerusalem is a UNESCO World Heritage site, and home to the cornerstones of three faiths, Judaism, Islam and Christianity with approximately 460,000 Jews, 225,000 Muslims, and 15,000 Christians.
Religion has the power to unite people with set rules, beliefs and traditions. A Christian, Muslim or Jew in the USA, Asia or Africa will all have relatively the same teachings based on their specific faiths. This creates a beautiful sense of community.
Church of the Holy Sepulchre
The Western Wall
The Dome of the Rock
On the other hand, Religion has as much, if not more, power to divide. There is discord both amongst, as well as within each of the three faiths and their sects. Catholics and Protestants, Shia and Sunni, Orthodox or Conservative etc. Consequently, there has been much violence amongst and within the three for as long as they’ve been practiced.
The Western Wall, The Dome of the Rock and The Church of the Holy Sepulchre, along with numerous synagogues, mosques, churches, their associated traditions and teachings have anchored these faiths to the city for millennia.
We’ve traveled the world in a secular way to some of the most holy places for many faiths. I’ve done my best to research, and experience aspects of these religions, and don’t intend offence to anyone reading. I’ll simply tell you what we saw in the Old City of Jerusalem.
The Western Wall – The Kotel
If you’ve ever seen a travel show about Jerusalem, you’ve seen the Western Wall with the extraordinarily devout Jewish people rocking back and forth whilst praying or reciting the book of psalms. (Some visit the site daily to recite the entire book.) The Prayer Plaza is a site of pilgrimage for Jews and non-Jews world-wide.
The Western Wall – Jerusalem
Visitors tuck slips of paper with prayers and requests into the wall in hopes that they’ll be answered. Tradition says a person who goes to the Western Wall, and prays for 1 request for 40 consecutive days will have that request granted. FYI: You can even sign up on-line to have someone make the 40 days of prayer for you by proxy, for a fee of course!
But, why is it more effective to pray at the Western Wall than anywhere else?!? What’s wrong with praying at a neighbourhood synagogue, home, etc.? Couldn’t the person just make the request from Albuquerque if needed? The answer can be sweetly summed up with a quick Google search for some Rabbinical wisdom.
…although G‑d is everywhere, His light shines stronger in some places than in others. He compares this to the human body: You are everywhere in your body, yet you are far more conscious of your mind than of your toes. So too, in the universe that G‑d created, there are places, times and states of being where we are able to be more aware of Him—and it is from those places/times/states that our prayers can fly best.
We arrived in Jerusalem during Jewish holiday of Shavuot, and saw thousands of people making their way to the Wall. The assortment of religious attire is fascinating! Fuzzy fur hats, long woolen coats, knotted strings on shirt corners, tiny boxes tied to the top of the head, the list goes on. Check out the Tefellin, the Tallit, the Shtreimel, and why they are customary to some, but not others.
Families making their way to the Western Wall for Shavuot
Jewish women also have specific dress codes with black being the color of choice for most, with very modest hemlines and collars. Most had their hair covered as is mandatory for married Orthodox women. We did not notice any women wearing pants.
The Bar Mitzvah celebrations we saw were super fun, but also upsetting. The area is segregated into men’s and women’s prayer sections, so a mother isn’t able to attend her own son’s Bar Mitzvah celebration, but has to watch from behind a fence. Though tradition, this was kind of unfortunate.
One of the many Bar Mitzvah celebrations we saw approaching the Western Wall Plaza
The ancient, 2,000-year-old stones of the Western Wall have witnessed the Jewish people’s birth, exile, and redemption. This is where the Jewish nation’s past mingles with its hopes for the future.
Outside of Temple Mount, the Western Wall is the most sacred site for the Jewish faith. What we see today is a remnant of the western retaining wall of the Second Temple built by Herod the Great. Although, there is much more of the wall visible beneath the surface which we were able to see.
We did the tour of the Kotel or Western Wall tunnels. If you’re going to Jerusalem, make sure to pre-book a time for this tour as it is well worth the visit. The Western Wall is a captivating and bewildering piece of the religious significance in Jerusalem.
The Dome of the Rock
The Dome of the Rock, Jerusalem
This shining dome pictured above the Western Wall is an iconic symbol of the Old City of Jerusalem. The glittering golden dome was not always golden; it was refinished in the early ’90’s to its current state. The dome is only a small part of the beauty of the building. The Islamic art covering the exterior is phenomenal.
In addition to the Dome of the Rock, The Dome of the Chain and the Al-Aqsa Mosque are atop the site. Muslims believe the “Rock” is the spot that Muhammad visited on his Night Journey, and the al-Aqsa Mosque is the spot from which Muhammad ascended to Heaven with the angel Gabriel to pray with other prophets.
Ablutions station, Dome of the Rock, Jerusalem
Dome of the Chain, Jerusalem
Exterior, Dome of the Rock, Jerusalem
Dome of the Rock, Jerusalem
As the third holiest site in Islam, The Dome of the Rock is obviously an important place of worship. Unfortunately, due to conflict, Israeli police restrict the access of Muslim Palestinians to the site. Men from the West Bank must be over 35 in order to apply for a permit to visit the site, and even then they are typically restricted to access on Muslim holidays only.
As non-Muslims, we weren’t permitted to enter either of the mosques, but we were able to tour the exteriors and grounds freely. On our return to Canada, a few people asked why we didn’t just say we were Muslim and go into the mosque. Well…not only would that be dishonest, but also pretty obvious that we’re not Muslim through not knowing mosque customs or behaviour etc enough to pass muster.
The other huge reason is that faking isn’t really an option when officials ask visitors to quote passages of the Qur’an in Arabic at the entrance. I have only mastered a few basic Arabic phrases, and I’m sure basic greetings, “a man and a boat,” or, “a girl and a bicycle,” don’t cut it!
Holy of Holies warning – Temple Mount
This Dome is also atop the holiest site on earth (The Holy of Holies) for Judaism, which Jewish Law bans Jews from visiting. The Dome covers the Foundation Stone, believed by Jews to be the first part of the earth to come into existence, and the spot where God gathered earth to create Adam. Jews also believe the rock is the foundation for the Ark of the Covenant.
The Dome of the Rock is a flash point for tension. The Friday that we toured the Mount of Olives, there was a scuffle/riot/police situation going on at the Temple Mount.
Recently, I read that the Temple Mount has been temporarily closed to visitors, and that the age minimum of worshippers from the West Bank was raised from 35 to 50 years. Clearly, there is no constancy or certainty of access which really is unfortunate.
The Church of the Holy Sepulchre
The holiest place in Christendom is The Church of the Holy Sepulchre. Christians believe the church is the site of the crucifixion, burial and resurrection of Jesus.
The Holy Sepulchre Church, Jerusalem
The Holy Sepulchre is nothing fanciful outside. The exterior is blandly nondescript. Oddly enough, the interior an utter hodge podge of decorative styles inside from highly ornate to completely run down and fire damaged.
Fire damaged Syrian Orthodox Chapel
Greek Orthodox Catholicon Dome
Crusader crosses, St Helen’s Chapel stairway
At the time of the Crusades, there were three primary denominations appointed to care for the church, Greek Orthodox, Armenian Apostolic and Roman Catholic Churches. Since then, there are Coptic Orthodox, Ethiopian Orthodox and Syrian Orthodox churches and shrines within and around the Holy Sepulchre.
A schedule has been made to regulate times and places of worship for each sect. Since 1192, the keys of the Holy Sepulchre were entrusted to a Muslim family, as none of the factions could agree on who should hold the key for fear of limiting the others’ access. A whole other kind of conflict exists at this holy place!
Eleven monks – seven of them Ethiopian, four Egyptian – were hurt in the violence which followed as the rivals hurled stones, iron bars and chairs at each other.
For example, a 2002 scuffle between the Ethiopian Orthodox Church and the Coptic Church of Egypt that resulted in serious injuries. And this, all because the Ethiopians objected to a Coptic Monk moving his chair a mere 8 inches in an attempt to find shade on a stifling summer day.
It probably doesn’t help that in 1970, the Ethiopians changed the locks on the rooftop chapel while the Coptics were attending midnight prayers, which is why the Coptic Monk was sitting watch/staking claim to the chapel in the first place. The behaviour is mind-boggling!
Clearly, they’re a ridiculously territorial passionate bunch at the Holy Sepulchre, and any violation on boundaries can bring on fisticuffs. I don’t think this video shows the ethic of reciprocity that is supposed to be embodied by the Golden Rule.
Nothing represents the absurdity of the discord quite as well as The Immovable Ladder. This little cedar ladder has been the source of conflict for over a century. Due to Church governance, no cleric of any of the orders may move or rearrange property without the consent of all of the other 5 orders.
No agreement can be made on who has the right to move the ladder. To maintain status quo, no one dares touch it. Yes, folks, that’s a 150-year-old argument about a ladder! (FYI: You can see it under the right window in the photo of the church above)
We didn’t see any of this conflict during our visit to this church. We did wait with hundreds of pilgrims (mostly Russian and Ethiopian) to visit Jesus’ tomb. The group in front of us was chanting and singing while waiting. The zombie drone-like chanting was FREAKY, but the singing was pretty.
The tomb, the actual Holy Sepulchre, is the last stop on the Via Dolorosa, a walk following the 14 Stations of the Cross believed to trace Christ’s footsteps to the crucifixion.
The Via Dolorosa
We walked the Via Dolorosa in a round about way while exploring the Souk. Some of the stations were very difficult to find. Scholars doubt the path Jesus took was anywhere near this current path. Through many centuries, they’ve been created, venerated and become fact to the faithful.
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We visited stations 10-13 inside the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, but it wasn’t always possible/polite to photograph. For example, there was a line to visit Golgotha. Stopping to photograph and hold up legit pilgrims would have been obnoxious.
The Old City of Jerusalem, and the little we learned about traditions and religious practices was incredibly fascinating, frustrating and a little frightening at the same time. The fervour of worship was unlike anything I’ve ever seen.
Faith, rather than fanaticism, entwined with tolerance would make for a much more peaceful region. Here’s hoping.
Given the most recent Israeli/Gaza conflict, some back ground information is probably critical. Let’s face it, Israel and the Middle East don’t get a lot of great press when it comes to safety and security. Due to lack of interest, global awareness or even opportunity, some people don’t have any knowledge of WHY the conflict even exists. Here is a very brief explanation:
While I can’t claim to be an expert in international politics in any way, I can tell you what we saw. For background, we visited the West Bank–not Gaza. There is a difference! We crossed at a pedestrian only checkpoint, as most are, so we either had to rent a car, or hire a guide with a vehicle. Navigating the road restrictions was more than we wanted to bargain for by ourselves, and we were forbidden from driving our rental car in the West Bank. As a result, we hired a guide for the day.
There are 3 areas, A, B and C. A is controlled by PNA, B is patrolled by PNA, but enforced by IDF and C is IDF.
Most news footage of the Middle East is typically of missiles, rubble, and agonizing grief. Mainstream media does more to misinform than it does to enlighten when it comes to Israel/Palestine conflict, and the portrayal of the people living in these areas. I didn’t feel unsafe in any way where we were. There was one freaky road sign, that Salwa explained to us. Israeli Defence Forces (IDF)and Palestinian National Authority (PNA) control three different areas, A, B and C, in the West Bank. FYI: Hamas controls Gaza. HUGE difference. Google it if you like.
Here is some information about our guide, Salwa, an actual human beingfrom Palestine. Salwa is a Palestinian woman, who was born in Colombia. She grew up the West Bank, and now lives with her husband and daughters near Beit Jala. Her family lived in Detroit, MI for a while when her Palestinian husband was working there as a university professor. She’s a witty woman who speaks several languages. During the course of the day she spoke English, Arabic, French and Spanish.
Salwa is a Catholic, not a Muslim. It always seems to be portrayed that all Palestinians practice Islam. (Thanks network news!) She explained to us that religious faith is listed on identification papers. I asked what would happen if a person doesn’t believe in anything? She answered that it isn’t possible to have a choice of “no religion.” For the sake of profiling, if the person selects none, they are by default listed as the same faith as their parents.
Salwa was willing to answer our questions about day to day life under occupation in The West Bank. Let’s begin the recap of the day…
Rachel’s Crossing – Israeli Check-Point
We crossed from Jerusalem at Rachel’s Crossing. This is the closest crossing to Bethlehem, Nativity Square, and some of the churches and monasteries we wanted to see.
Rachel’s Tomb Crossing, Israeli Side
Rachel’s Tomb Crossing, Palestinian Side
Rachel’s Tomb Crossing, Palestinian Side
Rachel’s Tomb Crossing, Palestinian Side
Rachel’s Tomb Crossing, Palestinian Side
There is a stark contrast between the Israeli side and the Palestinian side. In a conflicted way, I was loving the art on the wall.
Orthodox Monasteries
We arranged to visit the Mar Saba Monastery in the Kidron Valley, and St George’s Monastery in Wadi Qelt, as well as the Monastery of the Temptation in Jericho. All three are Greek Orthodox Monasteries. Salwa actually thought we were Orthodox because we wanted to see them. That’s funny! FYI: As females, Salwa and I weren’t allowed into Mar Saba Monastery. We waited outside while a young kid came out to offer us water and cookies.
Mar Saba Monastery, Kidron Valley The West Bank
Female Pilgrims outside Mar Saba Monastery
Kidron Valley The West Bank
St George’s Monastery Wadi Qelt, The West Bank
St George’s Monastery Wadi Qelt, The West Bank
Living quarters, Mount of Temptation, Jericho
Living quarters, Mount of Temptation, Jericho
Jericho
Jericho is thought to be the world’s lowest lying, oldest, continually inhabited city. It is approximately 850 feet below Sea Level. There have been archaeological evidence of settlements up to 10,000BC. That’s pre-pottery folks! Another fun fact–Jericho has the World Record for the longest cable car below Sea Level. We stopped in Jericho for lunch which included Knafeh, a traditional Palestinian desert.
Jericho Cable Car
Sea Level, The West Bank
Manger Square, Bethlehem
UNESCO Designation, Church of the Nativity Bethlehem
The Church of the Nativity in Bethlehem is traditionally thought to be the birthplace of Jesus. As of 2012, the basilica is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. We visited the Grotto of the Nativity, and saw the 14 pointed silver star that marks the spot of Jesus’ birth. Unlucky for you, the photos were a blur. We were being rushed by a crowd, and Salwa was being shushed by one of the Orthodox Monks. (She said he usually gives her a hard time for being too sassy when she’s there.)
Mosaic Floor, Church of the Nativity
Mosaic Floor, Church of the Nativity
The Wall
I started this entry with photos of the Wall, it is called a Security Fence, a Separation Fence, an Anti-Terrorism Wall, a Racial Segregation Wall and an Apartheid Wall. Prior to even planning a trip to Israel, I saw a news story about the wall and wanted more information. A couple of the books that I found helpful were A Wall in Palestine and Behind the Wall: Life, Love and Struggle in Palestine. There are so many awful, infuriating stories to be told. Stories of separation, resilience, desperation, and strength of spirit.
I had been asking Salwa a lot of questions about the wall and living under occupation. She actually stopped the car, started talking to a man who graciously invited us into his home so that we could see how construction of the wall affected his family. It was heart-breaking! Here is what we saw from his balcony.
The wall protecting Route 60 – Israeli Only highway through the West Bank
The view from their deck. Where the wire fence is currently is where the wall was supposed to be built–right over the family’s tiny garden that is in ruins now.
This portion protects the Israeli Only highway through the West Bank
Essentially, the wall serves to protect one side, and imprison another. Courtesy of googling “effectiveness of the separation barrier” Israeli statistics say that between 2000 and 2003 there were 73 suicide bomber attacks, and from 2003 to 2006 there were only 12. With 521 attacks stopped during that same period. That’s A LOT.
Both sides are being driven to desperation. There has to be a better way.
~j
If you want to know where to find the BESTShawarma in Israel, look no further than Nazareth. This historic biblical town may be full of crazy drivers, winding roads, and hoards of Ethiopian pilgrims, but they 100% know a thing or two about perfecting this delicious food!
Let’s begin the story with why were in Nazareth for lunch in the first place. Nazareth, “the Arab capital of Israel” is home to The Basilica of the Annunciation. The basilica was consecrated in 1969. It was built on top of 4 previous churches at the same site, and over the grotto thought to be the Virgin Mary’s house. So, at least 5 churches later is the present day basilica in Nazareth.
The walls are adorned with artwork from all over the world that represents the Virgin and Child. I was loving the variation on a theme. See for yourself…
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After touring the building and grounds, we wandered on some of the surrounding streets. Kazanova Kiosk was the perfect spot to grab something to eat quickly before getting back on the road. There is a great little seating area just to the right of this little gem of a place. Super quick service, and so, so delicious! I really wasn’t expecting much for tasty options so close to the Basilica in a touristed area. (The customer before us paid in US dollars which is usually a sign to run in the other direction.)
The not so secret location for you!
If you’re in Nazareth, and you’re looking for some divine shawarma, this is you’re place! Tell them I said “Hi!”
~j
On our flight from Vancouver to Jordan, we had a 6-hour layover in Frankfurt Germany. With enough time to explore the city for a few hours, we left the airport and took the train to Frankfurt am Main Römer Platz.
Römer Platz is a Fußgängerzone, a pedestrian only area with the charm of a stereotypical German town. The façades of the buildings help add to the atmosphere.
Façade of the Römer, Frankfurt
Römer Platz, Frankfurt
Old Nicholas Church, Frankfurt
We wandered to the Eiserner Steg, a bridge covered in locks. Couples in love place a lock on the bridge and toss the key into the Main River. There were hundreds of notes scribbled onto the bridge, and even one marriage proposal. I hope she said yes!
Locks of Love, Eiserner Steg Frankfurt
Locks of Love, Eiserner Steg Frankfurt
I hope she said yes!
The Main River, Frankfurt
There wasn’t much time for churches, but the exteriors were quite lovely.
Dreikönigskirche or Epiphany Church, Frankfurt
St Bartholomew’s Church, Frankfurt
How do you stay entertained during an airport layover?
~j
Dunedin, at the Southern end of the South Island of New Zealand, was our last city before heading back to Auckland for flights home. While there, I was fortunate to be able to catch up with an old friend that I’ve known since I was 5 years old. He’s been living in New Zealand with his wife and 2 children for quite a while now.
Dunedin is an awesome city. There’s something for everyone–architecture, nature, cuisine, history. It really was a great place to spend our last few days in NZ.
Dunedin Railway Station
St Joseph’s Cathedral, Dunedin NZ
First Church of Otago, Dunedin New Zealand
If you’ve spent any time with Fazh recently, I guarantee you’ve heard about Baldwin Street. Baldwin Street was among one of the many attractions of historic Dunedin that we were able to visit. According to the Guinness Book of World Records, this street is the steepest street in the world. At its steepest section the gradient is 1 in 2.86. So for ever 2.86 meters traveled horizontally, the elevation changes by one meter.
Baldwin Street, The Steepest Street in the World
Baldwin Street, The Steepest Street in the World
Every year there are people, CRAZY people who run to the top and back during the “Baldwin Street Gutbuster.” And, for annual charity events, up to 30,000 chocolate candies that look like orange gumballs are rolled down the street. Each of the orange “Jaffas” is purchased for charity prior to the big event. Prizes go to the person whose Jaffa reaches the bottom first. That’s about the only good thing that candy would be for. Chocolate and orange=gross! The video isn’t the best quality, but it’ll do.
We climbed to the top of Baldwin Street…IN THE RAIN, and gladly collected our certificates of achievement when we returned to the tiny shop at the bottom.
Have you encountered any odd World Records in your travels?
~j
On Tuesday, February 22, 2011, Christchurch New Zealand experienced a magnitude 6.3 earthquake that utterly devastated the city. 185 people lost their lives. Hundreds of people lost their homes and businesses, and the city lost its beloved Christchurch Cathedral. Since February 2011, Christchurch has experienced over 10,000 earthquakes and aftershocks.
These are 2 of the 3 pictures I took while in Christchurch. The rubble still present a year after the quake left parts of the city looking like a war zone; other parts were completely walled off, and others were completely intact as if nothing had happened.
We visited Christchurch on the last possible day to view the remaining portion of the Cathedral before it was being levelled. Unfortunately, due to the late time of the day, we were unable to find a pathway through the barrier wall to see it.
Adventures of a couple seeing the world 2 weeks at a time.
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