Tag Archives: Chivay

Lago Titicaca

We found that travel in Peru seems to be set up for the ease of tourists. No day was this more apparent than the day we went out on Lake Titicaca. We arrived in Puno from Chivay via the most uncomfortable van ever (aka 4M bus.) At one point another passenger asked if there was the ability to stop for a washroom break, and the navigator said that it wasn’t possible because it wasn’t safe to stop. It was late, dark and we were travelling as a 2 van convoy that couldn’t be separated.

I don’t know if this was some huge exaggeration, or if we were driving in the most sketchy part of Peru. It seemed fine. Our driver arranged for safe taxis and we were literally whisked in one door of the station and told to go with a woman who whisked us through the building to the back door and into a taxi. I honestly couldn’t tell you what the station looked like one bit.

At 7am in the morning we asked at the front desk if there was a possibility to go out onto the Lake. The clerk panicked! She started making phone calls, and said the boat was leaving but would wait for us. A taxi arrived out of nowhere and literally 11 minutes later we were seated on a boat for a full day tour on Lake Titicaca–the world’s highest navigable lake. (FYI: There are lakes at higher altitude, but they are too shallow to be navigated by every type of watercraft.) The lake is huge. I can only compare it to being on the Ocean or being on the Great Lakes. It took us 1 hour to get to the first set of Islands from Puno, and 2.5 more hours from there to get to Taquile.

lake titicaca mapOur tour guide Vladimir was awesome! He spoke English, Spanish, Quechua and Aymara, and knew a ton of stuff about a ton of stuff. He was a fountain of information and not in a boring way. There were people on the boat from Israel, India, USA, Ireland, Columbia, Peru, Australia, Iran, Italy, England, Holland, Germany and Canada. We ended up chatting with Rolf a guy from Australia who had been volunteering with some tribes in Ecuador, and a kid named Bryce from Indiana. Side note: Bryce’s brother was travelling in Peru last year and ended up getting bitten by a monkey. He had to go home for Rabies shots and completely missed Machu Picchu. Boo-urns!

The first site we visited was the Uros Islands. The Uros Islands are man-made floating islands. Each one is home to 2 to 10 families. Pretty much everything is made from the Totora reeds. Walking on the island is like walking on a spongy mattress. I did feel very set up as a tourist (obviously, that’s why we were there!), but it was pretty interesting just to see people living a completely different way than we every could/would here. The Uros people make money by inviting tourists to the islands, showing them how the islands are built, inviting people into their homes, and just being hospitable. The home we were invited into was smaller than the computer room in my house for a family of 5. There was one totora reed double-sized mattress on the floor, and a few hooks in the wall with miscellaneous clothing on them. That’s all.

We visited a second floating Island, which would be the equivalent of main street I suppose. There was a coffee shop, a general store, and a post office where we got our passports stamped. A few random facts for you: Each island has its own president. If a husband and wife separate, they simply cut the island in half; if they reconcile they reattach the island. Gardens with grains and flowers grow on the islands. Bathroom facilities are on smaller islands behind the main living areas. And, the dead aren’t buried on any floating islands, they are buried in special cemeteries on the main land.

Know what I like? Llamas!

On the second day in Arequipa we were picked up at our hotel for the Colca Canyon and Cruz del Condor tour. Because everything was arranged by the Casa de Avila, we didn’t really know what to expect. Our guide David (Dabeed) spoke both Spanish and English which was handy because we had about half and half for the people on the tour. There were people from Chile, Peru, Brazil, Argentina, USA, and us from Canada. We met a super nice couple from St. Louis – Jill and Jason. David was actually pretty awesome. He knew a lot of information about the people, culture and areas we drove through. I learned more than I expected.

Llama Crossing Sign
For the first day of the tour we drove from Arequipa to Chivay. We stopped several times at handy craft sites set up at strategic points along the route. (Pretty much every where you go there is someone trying to sell something.) We drove through the Salinas y Aguada Blancas National Reserve.

map-arequipa-to-cruz-del-condorThe reserve is home to thousands of Llamas, Alpacas and Vicuñas. Seeing the little camelids in fields on the side of the highway was sweet. I did feel like a total tourist taking photos of them–kind of like people taking photos of Big Horn Sheep on the highway in Banff or Jasper.   FYI:  The novelty wears off if you frequently see the animals on the morning commute.  In total tourist style, I took the photos!

The highest point along the route was Patapampa Pass at 4910m above sea level. (That’s over 16,000ft above sea level for you non-metrics.) We stopped for Coca tea and candies pre-trip. Neither of us had the tea, but both of us ate the candies. I don’t really know how they work, but they help with the altitude. The most we felt was a little short of breath and tight chests. I’m sure the Diamox helped negate any other symptoms we might have had. One poor lady on the tour was barfing from the altitude.  She was not doing well.

Mirador de Los Andes
Translation: Viewpoint of the Andes stretch of the volcanic mountain range in the Central Andes

It was pretty amazing to see all sorts of stone piles, similar to Inukshuk, all along the road. I asked David  for an explanation.  He explained that the  Apachetas are built as an offering to Gods. The people believe that high points are sacred, and try to emulate that with the stones. First they dig a little hole and bury something of importance, maybe their own hair, and then they build the Apacheta on top of the offering. There were literally thousands of Apachetas along the way.

Our stop over for the night was in Chivay, which is this dusty little dust bowl of a town. The Colca Inn was amazingly cute accommodation, especially since we didn’t even select it ourselves. We went out for dinner as a group with everyone from the tour. There was traditional music and dancing. It was all fun and games until we had to participate in the dancing. One dance around the restaurant and I felt as though I’d run a marathon. Score one for altitude that night.