Side trips and small excursions from major hubs can be the best part of any vacation. They’re usually off the beaten path, and a little less touristy. On our third day in Spain, we decided to visit Montserrat, a Benedictine monastery in the heart of Catalonia.
The trip is about one hour by train from Barcelona, and includes your choice of air tram or railway to get to the top. Of course, we chose air tram–the Aeri de Montserrat. Once at the site, there are a few funiculars to other view points and stops of interest. And we all know how I feel about funiculars!
What you need to know:
- There’s a pretty dark history of the monastery. During the Spanish civil war dozens of monks were killed as a violent attempt to suppress Catalan culture.
- The monastery has one of the oldest and most renowned boys choir. The choir sings through the day, and they’re an impressive bunch of little kids!
- Montserrat is one of the most important pilgrimage destinations in Spain. The main buildings and courtyard are overrun with people. Thankfully, the hiking trails are not.
- The Black Madonna statue (claimed to be from 50AD, but carbon dated to the 12th century) is patroness of Catalonia. “La Moreneta” is the soul of Montserrat.
Imagine a super religious Banff, A.B. or Whistler, B.C. with a lot less winter sports retail, and less party boys, and you’ve got the atmosphere of Montserrat.
The rock formations, “serrated mountain” (mont serrat), that give the monastery its name are filled with hiking trails and paths that are fairly easy going. Along the way there are some lovely view points, shrines, and sculptures.
There were sculptures by Subirachs that completely echoed the figures of the Sagrada Familia. There is also the Ramon Llull’s Escala de l’enteniment. This translates to me as “scale of understanding” or “ladder of being.” From bottom to top the steps are Pedra, Flama, Planta, Bèstia, Home, Cel, Àngel, Dèu. Which to me is Stone, Flames (Hell?), Plants/Earth, Animals, Man, Sky (Heaven?), Angels, God. Not being a Catalan speaker, I hope that’s close!
The courtyard of the Basilica of Montserrat is beautiful. I’m a sucker for religious iconography, so I found it particularly interesting. The fountain of youth/life was ridiculous, but the pilgrims were buying into it whole heartedly. They were also lined up forever to touch the statue of La Moreneta/the Black Virgin.
Just look at all the tiny, intricate details from top to bottom of the Basilica façade–seriously, how long would it take to make something like this?!?
And, here’s why iconography super interesting. Why is the fourth person holding a massive saw? Or, the eleventh person holding a battle-axe? At first glance, I know which one is Jesus, but the rest can’t justifiably be lumped together as “the Apostles” without me knowing who they are. Well thanks to some research, I know much more about the Apostles lives and deaths, most of which were pretty gruesome.
So, my best guesses, from left to right are: Matthias with a sword, Philip with a cross and basket, Thomas with a spear, Simon with a saw, James the Lesser with a club, Peter with the upside down cross and keys, Jesus, John with the bible, James with the scallops on his shoulders, Bartholomew with the flaying knife, Andrew with the X cross, Matthew with the battle-axe, and Jude with sails, but I can’t really see his outfit or what he’s holding.
If anyone can offer more insight, I’d love to know!
~j
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