From Gibraltar and La Linea, we made our way to Seville in Southern Spain. I really, really enjoyed the city. The architecture is fantastic. Being third largest church in the world, the Seville Cathedral is opulent to say the least. As part of UNESCO World Heritage site with the Real Alcázar and the Arvhivo de Indias, it was definitely on my radar. The Alcázar has some of most beautiful and intricate tile work I’ve ever seen. They’re fantastic!
Here are some photos from our time in Seville:
La Giralda, the bell tower of the Seville Cathedral, is crowned with a bronze weathervane statue of Faith.
View of the Cathedral from the bell tower.
View of Seville from the bell tower
The Tomb of Christopher Columbus, Seville Cathedral
Replica of La Giralda in front of the Seville Cathedral
Peacock – we found this guy just walking along
Plaza d’España, Seville
Azulejos tile work at the Real Alcázar
Fancy Tile Work, Real Alcázar
Fancy Tile Work, Real Alcázar
Fancy Tile Work, Real Alcázar
Horseshoe arches of the Ambassadors’ Hall, Real Alcázar
Patio de las Muñecas, The Patio of the Dolls, Real Alcázar
Archways, Real Alcázar
Patio de las Doncellas, The Patio of the Maidens, Real Alcázar
Gardens of the Real Alcázar
Archways, Real Alcázar
Fancy Tile Work, Real Alcázar
UNESCO Designation, Real Alcázar
Fancy Tile Work, Real Alcázar
The Moorish minaret turned bell tower, La Giralda, Seville Cathedral
Our day at the Alhambra started at the crack of dawn as many on our vacations do. We walked a few blocks, then took a little bus to the entrance gate. By the time we arrived we were already in a line a few dozen people long.
There are timed entrances on portions of the ticket so that areas of The Alhambra aren’t overrun. According to everything we’d read, the best times to visit are earliest and latest of the day. The earliest time still available made the most sense to us so we would have more time to explore before closing.
Very Brief History
Construction on the castle/fortress started in 889, and was part of the Nasrid dynasty by the mid-11th century. Much of the construction with the absolutely gorgeous Islamic architecture and design took place in the 1300’s.
Catholic monarchs destroyed a portion of the complex and built the Palace of Charles V in the early 1500’s. Eventually the site was abandoned, fell into disrepair, and was being used by squatters until it was rediscovered in the 19th century.
The Alcazaba & Arms Square
The Alcazaba is the oldest part of the Alhambra. With the ramparts and many towers, these areas would have been used as a fortress and weapons storage during times of siege. The bell on the Watch Tower, or Torre de la Vela, was used as a signal danger, or to tell workers in the valley below the different times they had to carry out certain tasks such as watering fields.
Nowadays, the single ladies like the bell! Tradition says that every young, single, woman who rings the bell on January 2nd will be married by the end of the year.
The Nasrid Palaces
Reflecting in the reflecting pool.
The Nasrid Palaces were designed with a theme of ‘paradise on earth.’ The columns, arches, fountains and reflecting pools create just the right atmosphere.
Several different areas make up the Nasrid Palaces. All of the rooms are impressive–from the baths to the court yards, to the harem, they’re extraordinary.
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The walls are intricately carved, covered in Arabic inscriptions or ornate geometric tiled patterns. Kudos to the people who made these designs! I can’t even begin to imagine the amount of effort and concentration it would take to make something so tiny and delicate on such a HUGE scale.
And, it isn’t just the walls that are gorgeous, the ceilings are just as awesome. The muqarnas would have taken forever to design and carve. (Muqarnas are the fanciful stalactite-like accents of Islamic architecture.)
The Muqarna filled ceiling of the Sala de los Abencerrajes, The Alhambra
I had never seen anything quite like the Sala de los Abencerrajes. A photo can’t do the rooftop justice. Even today, in its faded state the carving is crazy beautiful. You can see chips and flecks of colour through-out. Just try to picture what that would look like colorized!
The Generalife
The Nasrid Kings used the Generalife as an escape from palace life. As a “country estate” the gardens and ponds are surrounded by perfectly manicured hedges, flowers, and orchard-like settings. I was especially excited about the Pomegranate trees! We do not see those growing in Canada that’s for sure. And, I totally nerded out and took pictures of them too. Classic tourist style!
Pomegranate Tree
Flower, Generalife, Granada
The Patio de la Acequia, Generalife
Washington Irving lived at the Alhambra for a while
Pomegranate Tree, Generalife
UNESCO Designation
As a historical complex with beautiful gardens and architectural intrigue at every corner, and as a UNESCO World Heritage site, the Alhambra is an obvious must on any visit to Granada. Check it out for yourself, you won’t be disappointed.
If you’ve been reading along for a while now, you know that I love street art. I’m not a fan of the scribbles and tags most people would consider graffiti–I want something with a little effort beyond petty vandalism with a sharpie.
Most people visit Granada for the Alhambra, and rightfully so. I’m not suggesting you visit Granada solely for their impressive Street Art. However, the juxtaposition of a palatial fortress of such grandiosity with the city’s appreciation for their own Street Art culture is pure aces. Something typically viewed as a banal inconvenience, is actually seen as inspirational. Well done Granada, and thank-you!
The artistry was refreshing smattering of small, silly or edgy pieces right through to large scale beautiful murals We were lucky to see several walls by Granada’s very talented and most ubiquitous street artist is Raúl Ruiz in both Granada and Seville. (More on that to come.) For now enjoy these little bits and bobs from around Granada.
Side trips and small excursions from major hubs can be the best part of any vacation. They’re usually off the beaten path, and a little less touristy. On our third day in Spain, we decided to visit Montserrat, a Benedictine monastery in the heart of Catalonia.
The trip is about one hour by train from Barcelona, and includes your choice of air tram or railway to get to the top. Of course, we chose air tram–the Aeri de Montserrat. Once at the site, there are a few funiculars to other view points and stops of interest. And we all know how I feel about funiculars!
Aeri de Montserrat – cable car to the monastery
Aeri de Montserrat closer view of cable car
What you need to know:
There’s a pretty dark history of the monastery. During the Spanish civil war dozens of monks were killed as a violent attempt to suppress Catalan culture.
The monastery has one of the oldest and most renowned boys choir. The choir sings through the day, and they’re an impressive bunch of little kids!
Montserrat is one of the most important pilgrimage destinations in Spain. The main buildings and courtyard are overrun with people. Thankfully, the hiking trails are not.
The Black Madonna statue (claimed to be from 50AD, but carbon dated to the 12th century) is patroness of Catalonia. “La Moreneta” is the soul of Montserrat.
Imagine a super religious Banff, A.B. or Whistler, B.C. with a lot less winter sports retail, and less party boys, and you’ve got the atmosphere of Montserrat.
These little guys were out for a hike too.
The rock formations, “serrated mountain” (mont serrat), that give the monastery its name are filled with hiking trails and paths that are fairly easy going. Along the way there are some lovely view points, shrines, and sculptures.
Subirachs sculpture at Montserrat
There were sculptures by Subirachs that completely echoed the figures of the Sagrada Familia. There is also the Ramon Llull’sEscala de l’enteniment. This translates to me as “scale of understanding” or “ladder of being.” From bottom to top the steps are Pedra, Flama, Planta, Bèstia, Home, Cel, Àngel, Dèu. Which to me is Stone, Flames (Hell?), Plants/Earth, Animals, Man, Sky (Heaven?), Angels, God. Not being a Catalan speaker, I hope that’s close!
Ramon Llull’s Escala de l’enteniment
The courtyard of the Basilica of Montserrat is beautiful. I’m a sucker for religious iconography, so I found it particularly interesting. The fountain of youth/life was ridiculous, but the pilgrims were buying into it whole heartedly. They were also lined up forever to touch the statue of La Moreneta/the Black Virgin.
Montserrat Insignia
Magic Fountain of Life Montserrat
Montserrat Prayer
Basilica Courtyard, Montserrat
Just look at all the tiny, intricate details from top to bottom of the Basilica façade–seriously, how long would it take to make something like this?!?
Jesus & The Apostles. Montserrat Basilica Façade built in 1900 to replace the 1500’s original
And, here’s why iconography super interesting. Why is the fourth person holding a massive saw? Or, the eleventh person holding a battle-axe? At first glance, I know which one is Jesus, but the rest can’t justifiably be lumped together as “the Apostles” without me knowing who they are. Well thanks to some research, I know much more about the Apostles lives and deaths, most of which were pretty gruesome.
So, my best guesses, from left to right are: Matthias with a sword, Philip with a cross and basket, Thomas with a spear, Simon with a saw, James the Lesser with a club, Peter with the upside down cross and keys, Jesus, John with the bible, James with the scallops on his shoulders, Bartholomew with the flaying knife, Andrew with the X cross, Matthew with the battle-axe, and Jude with sails, but I can’t really see his outfit or what he’s holding.
If anyone can offer more insight, I’d love to know!
We have been to some magnificent churches in our travels–the iconic Sagrada Familia is no exception. As the most visited Barcelona attraction, there was no way we would miss seeing to this unfinished masterpiece. On our very first night of exploratory wanderings in Barcelona, we found ourselves at the Basilica.
Construction on the church started in 1882. Antoni Gaudí took over the project in 1883, and continued working tirelessly on the church until his death in 1926.
Gaudí by Subirachs
In 1936, a group of anarchists destroyed and burned the vast majority of Gaudí’s workshop and plans for the church. Work halted on the project for a period of time, and resumed again in the early 1950’s. As with anything in the public eye, there are opponents to the project who claim the intentions of Gaudí are not being honoured, and the at the project has become an abomination of his original ideas.
Even so, construction is still taking place over 130 years later by a dedicated group of architects. Completion of the Sagrada Familia is anticipated for 2026. This video shows what the completed Basilica will look like. (My apologies for the über-cheesy music.)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RcDmloG3tXU
Two facades of the church have been completed, the Nativity Façade and the Passion Façade. The third, the Glory Façade, is yet to be completed. Gaudí focused on the Nativity Façade, which is atypical of building a church, working on the exterior before the interior main structure is completed. He knew that others would be inspired by the beauty of the building, and continue construction after he had passed.
The Nativity Façade
The Nativity Façade, completed in 1905, was the only side close to completion in Gaudí’s lifetime.
The Nativity Facade, Sagrada Familia
From the three doors that represent faith, hope and charity to the cypress, the tree of life and universal sign of welcome, the whole façade is a hymn to the joy of creation for the birth of Jesus which is expressed in each and every detail.
From: Sagrada Familia informative plaque
No single picture could do this façade justice. The simultaneous enormity and intricate minutiae of Gaudí’s work make that an impossible task.
There are three entrances on this northeast side of the church representing Faith, Hope and Charity. This side of the church is lavishly decorated, and crammed full of symbolism.
The carved stone appears to be bursting with fresh blooms and new leaves, symbolic of the Nativity–life and joy and newness. Every little detail has been added with purpose. For example, even the bunches of grapes and ears of wheat, seemingly innocuous ornamentation, symbolize the Eucharist.
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Their upper parts are decorated with mosaics spelling out ‘Sanctus, Sanctus, Sanctus, Hosanna in Excelsis, Amen, Alleluia’. Asked why he lavished so much care on the tops of the spires, which no one would see from close up, Gaudí answered: ‘The angels will see them.
The towers are decorated with glittering glass letters, and the spires are topped with adorned with mosaics of Murano glass.
The Passion Façade
The two different design styles of the Nativity and the Passion are disparate, yet they fit together well. The ornate designs of the Nativity story are contrasted by the stark nature of the Passion Façade. This southwest side has been the cause of some controversy amongst Catalans. The sculptor, Joseph Maria Subirachs, used a much more angular approach than Gaudí’s typical flowing style. Subirachs also left crucified Jesus totally nude. (Oh the horrors! Hah!) But, this is a sore spot for many. I really liked the sculptures, and how they represent the Stations of the Cross.
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Subirachs pays tribute to Gaudí’s style with the shape of the Soldier’s helmets similar to the chimneys of Casa Milà. Also, the figure far left of the photo of Veronica holding her veil has the same profile as the sculpture of Gaudí by Subirachs.
The doors of the Passion Façade, also done by Subirachs, are the words of the gospels of Matthew and John cast in over 8000 bronze letters. The door contains a miniature of the cryptogram seen in the photo of Judas’ betrayal of Jesus.
The upper portion of the bronze doors of the Passion Façade
The Crypyogram by Joseph Maria Subirachs
Bronze door of the Passion Façade
Cryptogram combinations
The cryptogram has multiple combinations of numbers that always add up to 33, the age of Christ in the moment of this death. There are two numbers repeated 10 and 14; if they are added together the sum is 48, the same result as the addition of the letters INRI (Iesus Nazarenus, Rex Iudaeorum) according to the numerical order of the Latin alphabet.
The Interior
Beautiful isn’t it?
Walking into the Sagrada Familia is like being transported into a fanciful forest. The pillars, and the way the light filters through the stained glass windows is absolutely gorgeous. Everything has designed with the inspiration of nature.
The pillars are of different shapes and designs, as well as several different types of stone. The combined effect is otherworldly. A lot of this portion of the interior was completed as recently as 2010.
The stained-glass windows are reminiscent of watercolor paintings, and, in fact, are designed as watercolor paintings first by artist Joan Vila Grau before they are created in glass. He explained his intentions as:
For me it was necessary to create an atmosphere, a grand symphony of colour and light. When you go into a Gothic church, a cathedral or a monastery, the first thing you feel is the atmosphere. After that you are aware that there are windows of different colours and thematic representations. But what is important, before everything else, is the atmosphere that is created by the colours – and if the windows have a theme – well why not? But it is not necessary. In the windows of the Sagrada Família there is no figurative iconography but an atmosphere has been created. from: http:www.vidimus.org
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Since returning home, we’ve watched the documentary “Sagrada: The Mystery of Creation”. The film is a totally nerdy, but worth watching if you’re in for a slow-moving, yet informative couple of hours. I left with a feeling of confidence that the artists involved with the Sagrada Familia and its completion have embodied the essence of Gaudí’s vision, and are continuing to honor his life’s work right through to completion.
The Sagrada Familia, a UNESCO World Heritage site, as part of the Works of Antoni Gaudí, since 1984 is definitely worth visiting if you ever find yourself in Barcelona. Though the line ups are long, and some of the tower tours may be canceled due to inclement weather, it is well worth it. Save yourself time, and use the online booking options, and then plan to be awed. You won’t regret it!
Not sounding like a carbon copy becomes difficult when writing about a European destination. Everything has been said a million times. But here goes…
Our hotel, just off of Passeig de Gracia, was close to metro stations with simple connections to other stations in the city. When selecting accommodation there are three rules – location, location, location! Besides, who doesn’t love a great metro system?
from: www.tmb.cat/img/genplano.pdf
Even better than metro convenience, we were within walking distance of a lot of fanciful buildings. Barcelona has some of the most spectacular architecture!
Passeig de Gracia is home to the “Illa de la Discordia“, a city block with some of Barcelona’s most famous Modernista houses built side by side. We walked past Gaudí’s Casa Batlló on the Block of Discord everyday.
Josep Puig i Cadafalch’s Casa Amatller beside Gaudí’s Casa Batlló
After we checked-in to the hotel, we made our way to the Arc de Triomf, and the Parc de la Cuitadella. The Parc has a fountain by Josep Fontserè which was designed after the Trevi Fountain in Rome. Seems a bit of a stretch; Fontserè’s fountain is not as impressive.
Josep Vilaseca i Casanovas’ Arc de Triomf
The Fountain in the Parc de la Ciutadella
The Lake in Parc de la Ciutadella
Our first night was also our first experience with just how many people we would be dealing with while trying to navigate the sights. One of the greatest things about Barcelona is that there is ALWAYS a ton of street traffic–people walking around, eating tapas or even dinner well into the late hours. (10pm is o.k. for dinner here.) And then, those late hours turn into the wee hours of bar revelers.
People are out and about LATE. It’s fantastic! However, zillions of tourists were taking in the “Magic Fountain” show. We happened upon the show by chance, watching it was fine, but missing it wouldn’t have bothered me one bit.
National Museum of Art of Catalunya illuminated
Zillions of tourists make their way to the “Magic Fountain” at Plaça d’Espagna
Zillions of tourists make their way to the “Magic Fountain” at Plaça d’Espagna
Plaça d’Espagna in the day time
I won’t even pretend to know the intricacies of the architectural style of modernism aka Art nouveau. Do you own research if you need to know! There are several architectural giants on the scene in Barcelona. Two whose work I admired most were Antoni Gaudí, and Lluís Domènech i Montaner.
Two monumental works, Gaudí’s Sagrada Familila and Domènech i Montaner’s Hospital de la Santa Creu i Sant Pau, bookend the quiet pedestrian street of Avinguda de Gaudí.
Sagrada Familia
Hospital de Santa Creu i Sant Pau
Gaudí
Gaudí used mixed media with his gorgeous creations of glass, wood, stone, brick, tile, wrought iron and bits of rubble. His nature inspired designs make the materials work together.
Seven Gaudí buildings share a UNESCO designation–Casa Vicens, the Nativity Façade, the Crypt of the Sagrada Familia, Casa Batlló, Casa Milà, Park Güell, Palacio Güell and the crypt in Colonia Güell. (I will save the Sagrada Familia for another entry entirely as that cathedral alone justly deserves.)
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Noticing all of the thoughtful, intricate details of Gaudí’s masterpieces would not be possible even with a lifetime of study. For the few hours we had to experience Gaudí’s work, his creativity was awe inspiring. Everything was as much about form as function, with beauty and industry combined into a liveable works of art.
Domènech i Montaner
Domènech i Montaner, who was once a professor to Gaudí, worked to create an iconic Catalan style of architecture. His designs feature curved lines, exposed brick work, mixed materials, mosaics, stained glass and ornate façades.
Two Domènech i Montaner buildings, the Hospital de la Santa Creu i Sant Pau and Palau de la Música Catalana share a UNESCO designation. We were able to visit quite a couple of his impressive buildings on our ramblings through the city.
Lluis Domènech I Montaner’s Hospital de la Santa Creu i de Sant Pau
Domènech i Montaner designed the hospital with the belief that patients would fare better with fresh air and nature. Corridors and service areas were hidden underground, and courtyards were filled with gardens to aid in recovery.
Lluís Domènech i Montaner’s Casa Fuster
Unfortunately, we weren’t able to visit the Palau de la Música. Even if we had, there would be no pictures to share as that building is a camera free zone. We did see Casa Fuster, which is now a functioning as a hotel.
The banners hanging from the building are for La Diada , or National Day of Catalonia. September 11, 2014 was a particularly important celebration, and referendum vote.
La Rambla
Walking on Miro! Joan Miro’s “Pla de l’Os”.
No trip to Barcelona would be complete without a stroll or two on La Rambla. The famous pedestrian-only street is a 1.2km feast for the senses.
People. Watching. Paradise.
An utter ZOO of tourists, and hoards of locals on La Diada were there for our viewing pleasure. Eliminate the gents selling annoying little “bird” noise makers, and you’d be golden!
Interesting cafés, boutiques, florists, a fun market, and crazy street performers and artists flank the boulevard. One of my favorite things was the mosaic by Joan Miró.
La Bouqueria Market
La Bouqueria Market
Fish at La Bouqueria Market
Fish at La Bouqueria Market
We weren’t out on La Rambla late, but have heard that it can get a little dark and twisty, with scams and prostitution problems. As with any area rife with tourists, the scams are there en force, and La Rambla is no exception to that rule.
Columbus Monument at Port Vell
We made our way from Plaça Cataluyna at the top, to the Columbus Monument at the lower end near the old port.
The top viewing “area” of Mirador de Colón = claustrophobic’s nightmare! Warning: DO NOT attempt if you can’t handle small spaces. We don’t, and it was a little ick feeling up there without the added phobia.
View of Port Vell from Mirador de Colon
View of Barcelona from Mirador de Colon
View of Barcelona from Mirador de Colon
Photos and view of the city from the tower, weren’t so spectacular, but the entrance fee was fairly cheap, maybe 4€? I’d say, “Not really worth it. Save your money for tapas instead!”
We are winding down to the last few days in Spain. Tomorrow we leave Sevilla for Cordoba, and finally end up in Madrid for the last 2 nights. Then we fly home to meet our new nephew who was born the day we left!
Sevilla has been really fun. It is a nice change from La Linea which was a very utilitarian, border town, by the sea. Most of the buildings were in disrepair, and nothing special to look at. However, it was the most convenient place to stay for traveling to The Rock of Gibraltar. And, the hotel room was deluxe by our standards–room service, bidet, pool and all!
Today we are taking it easy. We tracked down some really beautiful street art, and then had some lunch aka fed some birds in the Plaza Nueva which is near by.
Sunday, Sunday. We’ve passed the halfway point of our time in Spain although it feels like we have been here much longer which is nice.
Granada is a great city. It is refreshing after the loads of people in Barcelona. On our first day in Granada we visited The Alhambra. The intricacies and details of the carvings are otherworldly. I cannot wait to go through those photos!
Yesterday, we had no set plans, and just explored the city. Granada is one of the only cities I’ve ever seen that has featured graffiti on its tourism maps. It’s easy to find all sorts of interesting pieces if you’re observant, but having a map was kind of fun. A city seeing street art as a feature rather than a nuisance is different for sure. I was in graffiti heaven for most of the day. FYI: There were still the usual shitty tags and scribbles in addition to the prettier pieces.
After today in Ronda, we are off to The Rock of Gibraltar tomorrow (which us actually part of the UK). I’m a little nervous about the apes of Gibraltar. In hindsight, it might have been a good idea to get that rabies vaccination after all.
Being bitten by an ape is NOT on my to do list!
~j
We are alive and well in Barcelona. It has been quite the adjustment with the time and temperature this trip. Boo jet lag!
Going from semi-arid desert to 85 to 90% humidity takes some getting used to. Luckily, the weather has been good so far. We had a little light rain yesterday morning, but nothing umbrella-worthy.
Navigating the city has been easy. The metro is quick and efficient, although the tunnels are like standing in a disgusting sauna while waiting for the air conditioned cars. I’m sure 90% of the 90% humidity is actually sweat from the passengers. That’s disgusting!
For as easy as Barcelona is to navigate, it is one of the more difficult cities to actually see what we want to see. There is a lot of hurry up and wait, then stand in line. For example, wait in line 40 minutes to an hour only to book a time slot in 2 hours to come back to see the church, museum, or park. The volume of people definitely leaves a lot to be desired.
Yesterday we managed to visit Park Guell and see a lot of the Gaudi buildings around the city. Today we are out of the city in Montserrat. Montserrat is a mountain top town with a Benedictine Monastery. Sadly, it is overrun with people as well, but we are making the most of it. There’s an air tram and 2 funiculars to go along with the hiking trails. Who doesn’t love a funicular?!?
Tomorrow we are booked for the Sagrada Familia. We didn’t want to wait in line for an hour yesterday only to have to go back in 2 more hours, so we booked online, and will skip the waiting tomorrow.
Tomorrow morning we’re off to Spain for two-weeks. We’re Starting in Barcelona, and heading through Granada, Ronda, Gibraltar, Seville, and ending up in Madrid. There are a few other cities along the way that should make for a fantastic trip.
For now, here’s a little video preview of some of what we’ll see…thanks and credit to Rob Whitworth again for the video!
Adventures of a couple seeing the world 2 weeks at a time.
Two monumental works, Gaudí’s Sagrada Familila and Domènech i Montaner’s Hospital de la Santa Creu i Sant Pau, bookend the quiet pedestrian street of Avinguda de Gaudí.
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