Not a bad view for this morning’s trip aboard the Transcoastal train.
Happy Travels,
~j
All posts by ~j
Lazy Sunday
After our half our stroll at 6am to the shuttle terminal today should be a relaxing day-no having to figure out directions or transport logistics because we are on the Interislander ferry this morning. After the ferry we have a TranzCoastal train through to Christchurch. This weekend and next weekend are the last viewing times possible for the Cathedral. It is being torn down to the bottom 2 stories. It would have been amazing to see in its full form.
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Kia Ora from New Zealand!
We’ve been traveling for a few days now. We made our way from Auckland to Otorohanga and Waitomo yesterday, and ended up spending the night in Hamilton. Today we traveled to Rotorua where we’ll be for the next couple days. So far we have seen some really amazing things, and met some really nice people.
A few things that are a little crazy…the price of food, that no where has normal brewed coffee, and that tips are refused like the money is contaminated.
Stay tuned for another update when internet is available again.
Don’t forget to pack the pine trees!
Flights, miscellaneous transportation, and accommodation are all booked. Now, we just have to get everything ready. Fazh finally found some good shoes to wear, and his back pack is due to arrive next week. I have the usual stuff to pick up, like bandaids and travel meds (Advil, Immodium, Polysporin etc.)
Fazh let me know he already has three travel bottles of shampoo to take. He has less hair than most, and it is only for 2 weeks; I’ll make him leave 2 shampoos at home. As the trip gets closer, he’s also becoming paranoid about situations that would be horrendous when traveling, like having bowel issues while on a bus trip. No one wants stomach problems while traveling–ever. To make matters worse, for the 7 hour bus trip we have one day, there is no toilet facilities on the bus. Here’s another great convo for you all:
Fazh: What happens if I have to go to the bathroom on the bus?
Me: Well it will stop about every 2 hours, so you shouldn’t have a problem.
Fazh: No. What happens if I HAVE TO GO?
Me: Well I guess you pee or poop your pants.
Fazh: I’ll bring a tarp and some wet wipes then.
Me: Maybe some Depends, and some air freshener because you’ll stink.
Fazh: Yes, you know those little trees, I’ll get some of those and stuff them down my shorts.
Me: The pine tree air fresheners?!?
Fazh: Yes, and they’ll be like, “WHO SHIT A TREE?!?!”
Me: Well it will stop about every 2 hours, so you shouldn’t have a problem.
Fazh: No. What happens if I HAVE TO GO?
Me: Well I guess you pee or poop your pants.
Fazh: I’ll bring a tarp and some wet wipes then.
Me: Maybe some Depends, and some air freshener because you’ll stink.
Fazh: Yes, you know those little trees, I’ll get some of those and stuff them down my shorts.
Me: The pine tree air fresheners?!?
Fazh: Yes, and they’ll be like, “WHO SHIT A TREE?!?!”
So, because he’s worried about the bathroom situations (which aren’t an issue here, he goes out and about and functions like a normal human being) I asked him if he would be ok on a 2 hour trip under ground to check out Ruakuri Cave in Waitomo. I don’t know what kind of facilities are going to be available and he said…
Fazh: They’ll say, “Who pooped in the corner? It must have been the Canadian because there is a moose antler in it.”
Seriously, what have I signed myself up for?!?! I’m sure he’ll be happy I’m sharing this with the world, but it cracks me up. You should be able to have most of the full experience too.
Charles, you don’t need that!
So, you might know that I’m taking my dad (Fazh) to New Zealand in a little over 2 weeks. He’s gone a little nutty with excitement. Months ago I gave him Eyewitness New Zealand to read through. He started dog earring corners, and writing notes in the book, essentially making a list of things he wanted to see. This is his trip, so I’ll do my best to make sure as much of what he wants to see is included. Some of the requests created a logistical nightmare. We only have 2 weeks and he’s got about 2 months worth of stuff on the list.
Most important to him was seeing how kiwi fruit grows, seeing a Kauri tree logging harbour, seeing a sheep shearing, going to the glow worm caves, and seeing penguins. He also wants to take the InterIsland ferry and the TranzAlpine train. Then he decided that Milford Sound and the Moeraki Boulders would be good options as well. All of those things I’m alright with except for the logging industry. That wasn’t going to be logistically possible, and was promptly cut. (I also couldn’t make the TranzAlpine work. The Coastal Pacific works just fine though.)
I think the fruit is what he’s most excited for, it isn’t like we don’t have kiwi fruit in the supermarket here, and it isn’t like he has never see a sheep being shorn in Canada either. Who am I to argue?
As the trip gets closer, he gets sillier. Here’s a conversation from last week.
Me: We’re going to have to get you some snacks for the 7 hour bus ride we have one day so you don’t turn into a cranky bitch.
Fazh: Stock me up on marshmallows and licorice, and I’ll be fine.
Me: Uh, maybe we could get you a sandwich and a drink or something to pack with you instead of just sugar.
Fazh: Where are you going to get a sandwich there?
Like he has a steady diet of pure sugar here? Like there are no supermarkets in New Zealand? No bread, no sandwich supplies? Really?!?
And today he calls me at work:
Fazh: I have to go buy a backpack for the trip. I think I’m going to get something camouflage so that I can use it for hunting and fishing later.
Me: Ok, but you have to get something small. 30L or less. It has to be small enough for carry-on. I’ll take you shopping on Thursday after work so you can pick out something good.
Fazh: I have ear plugs for the plane. They have a string connecting them so I don’t lose them. And I’m going to pick up a Louis L’Amour book. They’re all the same–the cowboy will ride his horse around, do some shooting, run around for a while, kiss the girl and they’ll ride off into the sunset together. Those books are all the same. I’m going to buy one right now.
(FYI: He bought FOUR Louis L’Amour books today! Who brings 4 books on vacation? They weigh a fricken ton, and I’m being the luggage stickler forcing him to take only carry-on. Ol’ Louis might just have to sit this one out…or at least 3 of them will. Jeeze!)
And after work:
Me: Did you find a backpack?
Fazh: Yes, I looked at them. I saw one that looked comfortable.
Me: Did you try it on?
Fazh: No, you told me not to buy it unless you looked at it. I also saw some Merrell running shoes that looked comfortable. They had a deal buy 1 pair get 1 pair half off so they could have gotten $200 out of me.
Me: You know you can buy just 1 pair right?
Fazh: Well I didn’t buy any because you told me not to buy anything.
Me: …….
But the best part of the day, and for all of you who get this conversation, I hope you find it as funny as me. (FYI: he’s 62, able bodied, and does not limp.)
Fazh: I don’t want you yelling at me because I’m old. I don’t want you yelling at me because I’m limping around. I don’t want you yelling at me because I’m slow.
Me: I’ll yell at you, you’ve got a 20 minute time limit, move it along mister. I’m gonna yell at you if you so much as think about eating an extra cookie.
Fazh: Then I’ll start calling you JOAN!*
Me: Charles you don’t need that!
Moral of the story, I might go cuckoo.
*Joan is my Grandma’s name. She’s the food police with my Grandpa.
Shanghai: The Layover
On our flight to Hanoi, we had a few hours at Pudong Airport. Waiting for our flight to Hanoi, while traveling from Vancouver to Vietnam, we had a few hours in Pudong International Airport. For something to do, we took the Maglev to check it out. “What’s the Maglev?” you ask.
It’s a high-speed train propelled by magnetic levitation. That’s science folks! And, this train doesn’t just leisurely roll along, it moves at a speed of more than 430km/h. That’s no typo…FOUR HUNDRED THIRTY! (FYI: Max speeds during testing were over 500km/h.)
It’s the World’s Fastest Train!
We made the 30km trip from Pudong International Airport into Shanghai in approximately 7 minutes. Not too shabby for a commute that long. Google maps estimated it would be about an hour by car.
For the layover in China on our way home from Bangkok to Vancouver, we opted to do some sight-seeing.
Yuyuan Gardens, Shanghai
The Westin Bund Centre, Shanghai
Yuyuan Gardens, Shanghai
Old City, Shanghai
Yuyuan Gardens, Shanghai
In the short few hours, the two of us visited Yuyuan Gardens, took photos of The Bund (from afar), and made it back to the airport in time for our flight home.
What do you do to break up the lengthy airport layovers?
~j
Our Visit to the Cambodian Landmine Museum
For years my only knowledge of Cambodia was that there was a need for landmine removal. In the late 90’s, an uncle of mine was stationed there for landmine removal, and at the time, I thought nothing of it. Cambodia was a country that I never dreamed I’d be visiting. To have that opportunity now, so amazing!Fast forward a decade and half…I’ve learned a lot more! From 1973 to 1997, Cambodia was under the terrorizing rule of the Khmer Rouge. Almost 2 million people died from starvation, exhaustion, lack of medical care, and execution. Between ’75 and ’78 approximately 100,000 people were executed.
People who didn’t conform to the “Peasant Ideal” were systematically executed. That means doctors, professors, lawyers, artists, business men, musicians, etc, etc. all killed. All traces of any unique thought or creativity were erased. Children, young children, were trained as soldiers. The Khmer Rouge was still in power until 1996 when the first elections were held, and weren’t removed until 1998. That said, Cambodia is relatively new to tourism.
Aki Ra and his organization devote all of their donated funds to clearing Cambodia’s rural “low-priority” villages. These villages, populated primarily by poor farmers, do not always receive first dibs for minefield clearance projects because of their remoteness and limited traffic. At times, they’re completely overlooked.from: www.cnn.com
Over 5 million landmines were dispersed all over Cambodia. It is estimated that it will take about 100 years to clear them all. About 1 in 300 people is affected by landmines in Cambodia today. We visited the Cambodian Landmine Museum and spent a bit of time there, just trying to process what we were seeing. The story of Aki Ra was particularly moving. If you have time it is worth watching the video and reading the article.
Speaking to people our age, who had such uplifting, positive personalities was awe-inspiring. Many of our contemporaries are orphans with indelible psychological scars. And yet, Cambodians were some of the happiest, kindest, most welcoming people we’ve ever encountered.
The country is on the way to recovery, and it will be a long road still. A huge emphasis was placed on education and literature. The writing coming forward is a lot of personal accounts of survivors. One that I read on the flight home was a heart-breaking read– First they Killed My Father: A Daughter of Cambodia Remembers.
Anthropologists believe that the Khmer Rouge managed to do away with approximately 80 percent of the country’s literature, even using the National Library of Cambodia as a pig stall. Of the few remaining texts, most were saved because copies were stored outside the country, especially in ex-colonialist France, or by refugees who fled the country.From: Granges et al. National Geographic Traveler Cambodia 2010 edition.
If you are in Cambodia, and spend any time in Siem Reap Town, be sure to visit the Landmine Museum. You’re able to donate to the cause at the facility. There’s a wish list of items on the website that you can pick up in any of the markets to deliver when you’re there too!
Please give if you’re able to help,
~j
Cambodia: Two Days at Angkor Wat
During our time in Siem Reap, we allotted two days to explore the temples of The Angkor Complex. The Angkor Complex and surrounding area is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Most people call the entire area Angkor Wat, but in actuality, Angkor Wat is just one of the many incredible temples in the area.
Because we had a lot of ground to cover, we had to decide how to best plan our visit. There are many options for transportation through the temple grounds–cycling, tuk-tuk, car. You would be extremely inefficient and ridiculously limited without transportation. The complex is gigantic and spread out.
We decided that day one we would use a car, and day two we would use a tuk-tuk. Our driver, Dora, was quite possibly the nicest person ever! He gave us so much information about the area, about himself, and about Cambodia in general that we decided to scrap the tuk-tuk day two, and go with him again. He was awesome! (FYI: It really was nice having the air-conditioning. We were spoiled Day 1, so that was a definite bonus!)
The Temples
The temples were built between the 9th and 15th centuries AD, starting with Preah Ko (AD 875-890), and ending with Bayon (AD 1175-1240).
Of all of the temples in the complex, Angkor Wat and Angkor Thom are the most impressive. Angkor Wat is the said to be the world’s largest religious structure. It is definitely the most famous and most ornate. We started the day at Angkor Thom.
Angkor Thom is more like a city of temples, (see the map above) including Bayon, Baphuon, Phimeanakas, the Terace of the Leper King and the Terrace of the Elephants. Our first impression was of the massive causeway and gates. The Asura statues lining the causeway are all slightly different than each other.
Each one is different!
Asura statue at the Victory Gate, Angkor Thom
Scars of war – This Asura statue has been shot; that’s a bullet hole.
The temples are filled with details, from panels depicting various scenes of day to day life, to bas-reliefs of apsara dancers, to walls and walls of carved writing. It’s overwhelming, and impossible to see all of it in two days. Even writing this now, I’m finding it difficult to focus on just one thing. Let’s let the pictures do the work!
Here are some of the lovelies we saw:
Reconstruction & Restoration
Angkor was “rediscovered” in the 19th century, having been abandoned for centuries, and was once again lost to the world during the 70’s due to war. Since the collapse of the Khmer Rouge in the late 90’s, the temples have undergone massive restoration efforts. Mines (unexploded ordinance) had to be cleared from the area, not to mention an overgrowth of vegetation.
Restoration efforts were prominent, and globally funded. Given the importance of Angkor archeologically, and to the Cambodians economically, conserving the site is of utmost importance.
Banteay Srei Conservation Project, Cambodia
West Gopura Restoration Project, Cambodia
West Gopura Restoration Project, Cambodia
Angkor Wat Causeway Restoration Project
Phimeanakas Temple Conservation Project
Scaffolding at Angkor Wat, Cambodia
There is so much to say about our time at the Angkor Complex. So much history, so many interesting things and people that the photos will have to do a lot of the work.
If you have the opportunity to visit Cambodia, you won’t be disappointed. The people were the most gracious hosts, and the small bit of scenery we saw was unbelievably gorgeous.
~j
Bangkok
We’ve seen countless shows about how many scams there are in Bangkok. It’s true! Although it is an intriguing city, there are certainly some things to be wary of. The scam we encountered was at The Grand Palace. Note – The Grand Palace is open every day!
At the first entrance we encountered “wily strangers” who told us the temple was closed for the morning due to monks being on the premises. Only, we’d just seen a whole tour bus of tourists let in! He said women weren’t allowed in at that time because it was too distracting to their prayer. The official-looking man tried to get us into a Tuk Tuk for other sight seeing. We didn’t go with it.
At the second entrance we encountered the same thing, only the story was slightly different, same Tuk Tuk scam though. Again, we didn’t go with it. Unfortunately there was no avoiding them and just walking through the entrance anyway as they are quite forceful and have great scam technique. Luckily, at the third entrance we finally got into the Temple. It really was a waste of time just trying to get into the Palace.
We stayed near Phra Sumen Fort which gave us the opportunity to explore on foot. We were able to visit the impressive Buddhist temples of Wat Pho, Wat Saket, and Wat Arun. While we were there Songkran festival, Buddhist New Year in Thailand, was taking place.
From what we learned, there are several things to do as a Buddhist during Songkran festival. Washing Buddha, and pressing gold leaf on to Him asks for forgiveness and fortune in the coming year. Making sand “castles” in the temple also returns all of the dust carried out from the temple on the soles of the feet during the year. There were offerings of colourful fabric, money and bells as well.
For a first look at Buddhist temples and practices, Bangkok was a great start.
~j
Sua s’dei Siem Riep
Just about half way through the trip, we left Vietnam for Cambodia. The flight out of HCMC was delayed, our gate was changed 3 times, and then the power went out to the entire airport–pitch black, power outage. It. Was. Out. After an hour or so, the power came back on, and our gate was changed back to the one we started at…seriously?!?!
Eventually we landed in Siem Reap. We arranged to be picked up at the airport through the guest house we were staying at. SO AWESOME! Our tuk-tuk driver introduced himself as Batman, and we were off!The Siem Reap Garden Inn was a tiny little piece of paradise. (The pool is new since we were there.) Everyone we dealt with seemed genuinely interested in making our experience the best possible which is not something found everyday. The level of service was probably something we won’t see again.
Siem Reap is one of the most welcoming places we’ve ever been to. It is an oddly dichotomous place in that is a major tourist hub with a 100% tourist related enterprise as the main focus. And, then there are obviously Cambodians going about their day to day business. Kind of like Las Vegas – there’s the Las Vegas strip, which most people from Vegas would avoid like the plague, and then there’s normal Las Vegas where people live, work, go to school etc. We were lucky enough to see both sides Siem Reap.
As we had limited time in Cambodia, we had a lot of ground to cover. Our first day was spent with Ta from Peace of Angkor tours. This has got to be one of the most memorable vacation days we’ll ever have. He took us to Kompong Khleang and along the Tonle Sap. We also visited Beng Mealea, and climbed along the walls of the ancient temple. Ta was fortunate to be one of first people to “rediscover” the temple, and said at the time, there were actually tigers on the temple grounds.
As promised quite a while ago, here are some of the photos from our day with Ta.
Cashew fruit and nut
The kids were super excited to have their photos taken. This grandmother wanted hers taken as well. Just before she posed for the camera, she was hacking away at the edge of the bowl with a machete. At 78 years old, she was still sharp as a tack. We had a great time visiting Kompong Khleang. The stilt houses were absolutely fascinating. The residents were insanely hospitable to us. Due to Ta’s kindness, we were invited inside a stilt house to roast cashew nuts picked right from the tree.
We were privileged to see a wedding, where they asked us in closer to take photos of the bride and groom. And, we also saw/followed a funeral procession for a while. Richard, a person we were with, said we almost had “hatches, matches and dispatches,” covered.
We had an extraordinary tour through one of the villages outside of Siem Reap, and we were fortunate enough to float on the Tonle Sap River (which in itself is a crazy thing–yep, I’m a nerd!). None of this experience would have been logistically possible for us without our guide, Ta. He really made the day one we’ll never forget.
The second half of the day we were at another UNESCO Site, Beng Mealea. This temple has collapsed walls, and jungle-ish overgrowth that gives it an appeal unlike the other temples we saw in Cambodia. We were able to climb on the walls and take pathways that would definitely not have been acceptable in the bubble wrapped North American tourism sector. It was pretty fantastic. See for yourself…
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