When we had finally confirmed we were going to the Middle East, and actually able to visit Bethlehem, I was super excited for the historical aspects of the visit, but also the impressive art that would be on the separation fence. I had seen works by Banksy on the wall, and read up on some of them, and the reactions they caused.
Admiring such a torturous, agonizing structure definitely left me feeling pretty crummy, but at the same time, I understood the need to turn the wall into something inspiring–covering something so ugly with beauty, or even just a tiny political kick to the powers that be.
I’ve been reluctant to post some of the photos as I don’t read Arabic or Hebrew, and cannot manage to find a proper translation for some of the pictures. It is NOT my intent to post anything the perpetuates hate or racism. Based on the pictures accompanying the writing, my guess is they’re not, so I’m taking the risk. I’ve managed to painstakingly translate some of the Hebrew. Mr. H. Vacui is quite the poet…
Enjoy
~j
Banky’s dove wearing a bullet proof vest, Bethlehem
Welcome, I hope you like the redesign although it is still a work in progress. There have been a lot of changes here in the past few months. This platform should be much better for everyone. Better writing and editing tools for me, and easier address and easier following for you! Simply enter your email address, and you’ll automatically receive notification whenever there’s something new.
There are still a few things to catch up on and finalize, but at least the site is semi-functional. Thankfully, I’m closer to being through with our Middle East entries, and, will try to get them up before working on Spain.
Stick around, and read for a while. I’d love to know what you think.
Given the most recent Israeli/Gaza conflict, some back ground information is probably critical. Let’s face it, Israel and the Middle East don’t get a lot of great press when it comes to safety and security. Due to lack of interest, global awareness or even opportunity, some people don’t have any knowledge of WHY the conflict even exists. Here is a very brief explanation:
While I can’t claim to be an expert in international politics in any way, I can tell you what we saw. For background, we visited the West Bank–not Gaza. There is a difference! We crossed at a pedestrian only checkpoint, as most are, so we either had to rent a car, or hire a guide with a vehicle. Navigating the road restrictions was more than we wanted to bargain for by ourselves, and we were forbidden from driving our rental car in the West Bank. As a result, we hired a guide for the day.
There are 3 areas, A, B and C. A is controlled by PNA, B is patrolled by PNA, but enforced by IDF and C is IDF.
Most news footage of the Middle East is typically of missiles, rubble, and agonizing grief. Mainstream media does more to misinform than it does to enlighten when it comes to Israel/Palestine conflict, and the portrayal of the people living in these areas. I didn’t feel unsafe in any way where we were. There was one freaky road sign, that Salwa explained to us. Israeli Defence Forces (IDF)and Palestinian National Authority (PNA) control three different areas, A, B and C, in the West Bank. FYI: Hamas controls Gaza. HUGE difference. Google it if you like.
Here is some information about our guide, Salwa, an actual human beingfrom Palestine. Salwa is a Palestinian woman, who was born in Colombia. She grew up the West Bank, and now lives with her husband and daughters near Beit Jala. Her family lived in Detroit, MI for a while when her Palestinian husband was working there as a university professor. She’s a witty woman who speaks several languages. During the course of the day she spoke English, Arabic, French and Spanish.
Salwa is a Catholic, not a Muslim. It always seems to be portrayed that all Palestinians practice Islam. (Thanks network news!) She explained to us that religious faith is listed on identification papers. I asked what would happen if a person doesn’t believe in anything? She answered that it isn’t possible to have a choice of “no religion.” For the sake of profiling, if the person selects none, they are by default listed as the same faith as their parents.
Salwa was willing to answer our questions about day to day life under occupation in The West Bank. Let’s begin the recap of the day…
Rachel’s Crossing – Israeli Check-Point
We crossed from Jerusalem at Rachel’s Crossing. This is the closest crossing to Bethlehem, Nativity Square, and some of the churches and monasteries we wanted to see.
Rachel’s Tomb Crossing, Israeli Side
Rachel’s Tomb Crossing, Palestinian Side
Rachel’s Tomb Crossing, Palestinian Side
Rachel’s Tomb Crossing, Palestinian Side
Rachel’s Tomb Crossing, Palestinian Side
There is a stark contrast between the Israeli side and the Palestinian side. In a conflicted way, I was loving the art on the wall.
Orthodox Monasteries
We arranged to visit the Mar Saba Monastery in the Kidron Valley, and St George’s Monastery in Wadi Qelt, as well as the Monastery of the Temptation in Jericho. All three are Greek Orthodox Monasteries. Salwa actually thought we were Orthodox because we wanted to see them. That’s funny! FYI: As females, Salwa and I weren’t allowed into Mar Saba Monastery. We waited outside while a young kid came out to offer us water and cookies.
Mar Saba Monastery, Kidron Valley The West Bank
Female Pilgrims outside Mar Saba Monastery
Kidron Valley The West Bank
St George’s Monastery Wadi Qelt, The West Bank
St George’s Monastery Wadi Qelt, The West Bank
Living quarters, Mount of Temptation, Jericho
Living quarters, Mount of Temptation, Jericho
Jericho
Jericho is thought to be the world’s lowest lying, oldest, continually inhabited city. It is approximately 850 feet below Sea Level. There have been archaeological evidence of settlements up to 10,000BC. That’s pre-pottery folks! Another fun fact–Jericho has the World Record for the longest cable car below Sea Level. We stopped in Jericho for lunch which included Knafeh, a traditional Palestinian desert.
Jericho Cable Car
Sea Level, The West Bank
Manger Square, Bethlehem
UNESCO Designation, Church of the Nativity Bethlehem
The Church of the Nativity in Bethlehem is traditionally thought to be the birthplace of Jesus. As of 2012, the basilica is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. We visited the Grotto of the Nativity, and saw the 14 pointed silver star that marks the spot of Jesus’ birth. Unlucky for you, the photos were a blur. We were being rushed by a crowd, and Salwa was being shushed by one of the Orthodox Monks. (She said he usually gives her a hard time for being too sassy when she’s there.)
Mosaic Floor, Church of the Nativity
Mosaic Floor, Church of the Nativity
The Wall
I started this entry with photos of the Wall, it is called a Security Fence, a Separation Fence, an Anti-Terrorism Wall, a Racial Segregation Wall and an Apartheid Wall. Prior to even planning a trip to Israel, I saw a news story about the wall and wanted more information. A couple of the books that I found helpful were A Wall in Palestine and Behind the Wall: Life, Love and Struggle in Palestine. There are so many awful, infuriating stories to be told. Stories of separation, resilience, desperation, and strength of spirit.
I had been asking Salwa a lot of questions about the wall and living under occupation. She actually stopped the car, started talking to a man who graciously invited us into his home so that we could see how construction of the wall affected his family. It was heart-breaking! Here is what we saw from his balcony.
The wall protecting Route 60 – Israeli Only highway through the West Bank
The view from their deck. Where the wire fence is currently is where the wall was supposed to be built–right over the family’s tiny garden that is in ruins now.
This portion protects the Israeli Only highway through the West Bank
Essentially, the wall serves to protect one side, and imprison another. Courtesy of googling “effectiveness of the separation barrier” Israeli statistics say that between 2000 and 2003 there were 73 suicide bomber attacks, and from 2003 to 2006 there were only 12. With 521 attacks stopped during that same period. That’s A LOT.
Both sides are being driven to desperation. There has to be a better way.
~j
Haifa, in Northern Israel, is home to the Bahá’í Gardens. The Garden houses the Shrine of the Bab which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and one of the most holy places for the Bahá’í religion.
Because I’m a total nerd, I researched the Bahá’í faith prior to visiting the centre. In a nut shell, the religion is monotheistic, so there is one all-powerful God. Bahá’ís emphasize a spiritual unity of all people. One of the main beliefs is that no religion has a monopoly on the truth. They believe that all are true at the spiritual core, but have diverged through their social teachings. Bahá’ís seek to combine all teaching of the holy men into one tidy package.
The gardens were spectacular. They truly are some of most gorgeously manicured gardens I’ve ever seen. Viewed from the base of the gardens, or from the top of Mt. Carmel, they’re beautiful.
If you want to know where to find the BESTShawarma in Israel, look no further than Nazareth. This historic biblical town may be full of crazy drivers, winding roads, and hoards of Ethiopian pilgrims, but they 100% know a thing or two about perfecting this delicious food!
Let’s begin the story with why were in Nazareth for lunch in the first place. Nazareth, “the Arab capital of Israel” is home to The Basilica of the Annunciation. The basilica was consecrated in 1969. It was built on top of 4 previous churches at the same site, and over the grotto thought to be the Virgin Mary’s house. So, at least 5 churches later is the present day basilica in Nazareth.
The walls are adorned with artwork from all over the world that represents the Virgin and Child. I was loving the variation on a theme. See for yourself…
This slideshow requires JavaScript.
After touring the building and grounds, we wandered on some of the surrounding streets. Kazanova Kiosk was the perfect spot to grab something to eat quickly before getting back on the road. There is a great little seating area just to the right of this little gem of a place. Super quick service, and so, so delicious! I really wasn’t expecting much for tasty options so close to the Basilica in a touristed area. (The customer before us paid in US dollars which is usually a sign to run in the other direction.)
The not so secret location for you!
If you’re in Nazareth, and you’re looking for some divine shawarma, this is you’re place! Tell them I said “Hi!”
~j
Masada is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and one of Israel’s most popular attractions. For our first night in Israel, we stayed at the Masada Youth Hostel and Guest House. FYI: The Hostels in Israel are like no other. This place was more like a convention centre! We visited the ruins of this mountaintop fortress that overlooks the banks of the Dead Sea.
There is a cable car to get to the top of Masada. (There is also a switch-back pathway to the top, but it looked BRUTAL, and it was HOT in the desert!) Masada has the ruins of one of the palaces of Herod the Great at the top of the mesa, as well as the remains of Roman camps at the base of the fortified hill.
Israeli Flag Masada Israel
View of the Dead Sea from Masada
View of the Dead Sea from Masada Israel
Columbarium to hold urns of ashes, Masada Israel
Archway ruins Masada
I didn’t know much about the history of Masada prior to visiting, and actually found the site rather informative. In 73AD Masada had been under Roman siege for two years as one of the last Jewish strongholds when it was finally taken. Rather than succumb to Roman rule and slavery, the Jews of Masada chose to commit mass suicide.
Judaism prohibits suicide, so the men of Masada drew names, and killed each other down to the last man who would commit suicide. There was a whole exhibit showing pieces of the clay shards with names found on the site. Almost 1000 people were killed.
The synagogue at the top of Masada is thought to be one of the oldest in Israel. While we were at the site, there was a group singing in the synagogue. It was simultaneously eerie and beautiful.
From Masada we made our way to the Tiberias. Stay tuned…
~j
After we had finished our Bedouin experience, we reunited with our German friend to taxi to the border crossing. To cross from Jordan into Israel, we used the Wadi Araba border crossing from Aqaba to Eilat. This is a pedestrian only crossing with about 100m of no man’s land to walk through to get to the custom’s office. I can honestly say I’ve never a tank gun pointed in my direction before then!
Directions to Egypt and Jordan, Eilat Israel
Once through customs (which was a total breeze, our local airport is more stringent!) we made our way to the rental car company. Renting a car in Israel was our first experience with driving abroad. So liberating!Car rental was not overly expensive, distances are not extreme given the size of the country–especially compared to Canada where driving for 10+ hours to get to somewhere in the next province isn’t unusual!
Eilat is a haven for bird watching being a crossroads for migratory birds from Asia, Africa and Europe. It’s also a coveted site for SCUBA divers wishing to dive in the Red Sea. You can even swim with Whale Sharks! We didn’t have time for either, not that you could pay me to do SCUBA. FYI: The water of the Red Sea–not red!
The Red Sea, Eilat Israel
Once we had the car, we realized we needed a quick pit-stop for continuing our journey. We stopped at McDonald’s. Yes, I know, roll your eyes! But, it was different–kosher food laws and all, so we wanted to check it out. No bacon or cheese to be found on a burger anywhere!
Kosher food wasn’t the only shocking difference. How about these fellows and their accessories?
Is this different from your local McDonalds?
That’s not something we see at the arches here! Any thoughts?
~j
ps: We usually check out McDonald’s at least once while away. There’s almost always something crazy on the menu that we’ve never seen before. Sometimes the choices are HILARIOUS!
We arrived at Wadi Rum Village by bus from Wadi Musa. A German girl we met in Petra was on the bus with us. She was traveling solo, and had some really interesting stories to tell. We agreed to meet after our Bedouin camping experiences to travel to Aqaba together.
Camel in the backyard
Wadi Rum Village is like no place I have ever seen before. Picture a wild west town constructed of cinder blocks, set in present day, in the heart of the desert, with some traditional Bedouin goat-hair tents thrown in for good measure. Some of the houses had camels in the backyard, because where else would they be? We actually saw a dead cat discarded beside the trash pile, as well as this EPIC set up. Such a quirky place that we didn’t have near enough time to explore!
Safety First? More like Safety NEVER!
Best of all, the Bedouin hospitality and warmth, combined with a jovial attitude made for a great start to our Wadi Rum experience. We were told to meet our guide Attallah Al-Blwi at the house with the blue door. When we eventually found the place, I asked if there was a washroom. There was one just across the street. This was the traditional ceramic hole in the floor with foot “perches”, and a scoop of water from a bucket to flush. (Really, facilities like this aren’t uncommon, but just so you know what the situation was!)
Two of our French Friends in the lead.
While we were waiting we were given sweet Bedouin tea and even free wi-fi which was nice to be able to check e-mail. Our group consisted of us and 3 French women who were a great trio to hang out with for the day. The 5 of us opted for a short few-hour camel ride, then a “jeep” tour through the desert before heading to the camp for the night. The camel ride was actually pretty fun, and mildly terrifying. Thankfully my camel didn’t bite me!
Wadi Rum had some of the most awe-inspiring vitas of our whole Middle East trip. Our driver, Halif, took us to Jebel Umm Fruth Rock Bridge, Jebel Burdah Rock Bridge, Lawrence Springs, the Lawrence of Arabia House and to see petroglyphs in Khaz-ali Canyon.
Our “Jeep” was actually a Toyota
Camel Wadi Rum Desert
Lawrence of Arabia House, Wadi Rum Desert
Petroglyphs
Petroglyphs
Camels Wadi Rum Desert
Zarb Dinner with Attallah of Bedouin Lifestyle Camp
Jabal Burdah Rock Bridge Wadi Rum Desert
Wadi Rum Desert
Since Jon had done 99.9% of the planning for the trip, I wasn’t sure what to expect when we arrived at the camp. The set-up was way more posh than I had been expecting, and actually quite cute. For dinner we had Zarb. I am thankful it wasn’t Mansaf.
Sunset over Wadi Rum Desert
Doing this tour was definitely worth it. After all, it isn’t every day I get to ride a camel through the Jordanian desert! I’ll be sure to cross that off my bucket list.
Have you crossed anything off of your list lately?
~j
It wouldn’t be right to travel to Jordan and not visit Petra. Petra has been a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1985, and is probably one of the most impressive archeological sites I’ve ever seen. The photos included could never capture the magic of the Rose-Red City.
Brief History
Around 300-100BC, Petra was a Nabataean trade route for spices, textiles, and incense. Merchants had established a rich and powerful centre of commerce. Eventually, due to a number of reasons–earthquakes, annexation by Rome, trade decline etc., the area was abandoned around 1300AD. It was “rediscovered” in 1812 by a Swiss explorer Johann Ludwig Burckhardt.
from http://www.petramoon.com/petraindepth.htm
The Siq
The Siq, Petra
Once through the ticket gate at the Visitor Centre, there is a bit of a walk (maybe 700m?) on the Bab el-Siq to reach the actual start of The Siq. The further 2km walk along this cavernous pathway is an unbelievably beautiful prelude to the Treasury. Visitors have the option of riding a donkey, or taking a horse-drawn buggy, but that would steal so much from the experience. The Siq is full of details.
This slideshow requires JavaScript.
First Glimpse
And, all of a sudden, after gawking at the walls of The Siq, there is an end, and this is what is peaking through the narrow crack. Absolutely stunning!
First glimpse of The Treasury, Petra
The Treasury – Al-Khazneh
Petra’s crown jewel is definitely The Treasury. If you’re looking for an in-depth dissection of all of the Hellenistic features on the façade of this building, you’ve come to the wrong place! (Although it is interesting info, information, you can find it on google yourself.)
The Treasury Al-Khazneh, Petra
What you see is not even the full height of the structure. There is a lower level below a grate to the left of the seated people. The exterior is so intricately detailed and ornamented, that it is still impressive after thousands of years of erosion. FYI: The urn at the top is riddled with bullet holes thanks to Bedouin treasure seekers who believed the it was full of the Pharaoh’s gold.
The grate in front of the Treasury, Petra
Below the grate in front of the Treasury, Petra
Bullet holes in the urn of the Treasury, Petra
Bullet holes in the urn of the Treasury, Petra
The Monastery – Ad Deir
Our ultimate goal for Day 1 was to make it to The Monastery – Ad Deir. If you take a look at the map, that is a lot of ground to cover, with plenty of structures to explore along the route. Here are some of the stops we took along the way:
This slideshow requires JavaScript.
Walking the path to The Monastery is supposed to take about an hour. THAT IS A LIE! It takes way longer. It is a pretty fantastical pathway with alternating sand and stone portions, along with more than 800 rock-cut steps. Depending on the time of day, the sun may or may not be roasting portions of the pathway. At points it is really narrow which makes for dodging the donkeys a little harrowing. The walk was a little more than I had bargained for in the heat, but it was worth the effort.
The Monastery, Petra
The High Place of Sacrifice
On our second day in Petra, we noticed even more details while walking through the Siq. It really is amazing. Beyond looking at some of the ruins we had already seen, Jon wanted to walk to the High Place of Sacrifice. The High Place is at the top of Jebel Attuf mountain, which is about a 1000m climb. Our guide book said, “The ascent, while gradual, requires stamina and a good head for heights, and is best attempted in the early morning.” Thanks for the tip Eyewitness.
If I had known what was at the top, for the amount of time/effort spent getting to the High Place of Sacrifice, I would NOT have bothered, and would have spent my time better exploring elsewhere in Petra.
This slideshow requires JavaScript.
Being able to experience Petra was definitely a highlight of our Middle East adventures. This is an ancient city like no other, and easily deserves the designation of one of the New 7 Wonders of the World. Cross one more off the list…
Be sure to stay tuned for our Wadi Rum experience of camping with the Bedouin!
~j
As I mentioned before, we arrived very late to Madaba. We were awake to hear the first call to prayer (around 5:00am) partially due to jet lag. Listening to the tune and thinking of all those it means something to is a rather reflective way to start the day. I love it! Sing the adhan from the minaret Muezzin. It’s all good! (Note to self: must find out what they’re saying because it is different wording at different times of the day!)
We stayed at St. George’s Church, the Church of the Map. This is an unassuming Greek Orthodox Church from the outside, but actually houses the oldest existing map of the Holy Land. The map features significant biblical places, the Dead Sea and Jerusalem amongst others. It basically covers the area from Egypt to Lebanon.
Exterior of St George’s Church, Madaba Jordan
Hanging on the wall of the lobby
Iconography inside the Church of the Map, St George’s Church, Madaba Jordan
The Mosaic Map, Church of the Map, Madaba Jordan
The Mosaic Map, Church of the Map, Madaba Jordan
The mosaicist conceived and carried out his masterwork with great topographical skill and biblical knowledge. The Madaba Mosaic map is deemed by some scholars to be the best topographic representation ever done before modern cartography.
For our first day in Jordan, we explored the city, enjoyed some phenomenal food at Haret Jdoudna, and just took in the sights. Madaba has been called The City of Mosaics. There is no shortage of shops selling all sorts of hand-made tile pieces. I was particularly enamoured with the painted Ostrich Eggs, but didn’t know if they’d make it through the rest of the trip in one piece, or be a problem with customs on return. Some were hideous, some were fantastic. We ended up buying two small pieces of mosaic in Madaba. While speaking to the shop keeper, we learned that he had a brother in Canada, living not far from us. Small world! Everyone we spoke with was extraordinarily friendly and welcoming. Jordanians have to be some of the most hospitable people on the planet.
Salad at Haret Jdoudna, Madaba Jordan
Delicious Hummous at Haret Jdoudna, Madaba Jordan
Fresh Made Pita at Haret Jdoudna, Madaba Jordan
To make our way from Madaba to Wadi Musa, we ended up hiring a driver to take us and another couple along the King’s Highway to do some sight-seeing along the way. We drove through the Wadi Mujib Nature Reserve for the most part as it covers a lot of the area. Eventually we stopped at the ruins of al-Kerak castle. This Crusader castle is one of the largest in the area. It is preserved really well, and we were able to wander around the site for quite a while.
Bedouin camp on the way from Madaba to Wadi Musa
Al Kerak Castle Crusader Castle, Jordan
Al Kerak Castle Crusader Castle, Jordan
Al Kerak Castle Crusader Castle, Jordan
Fields on the way from Madaba to Wadi Musa
View of Wadi Mujib on the way to Wadi Musa
On our arrival to Wadi Musa, we decided that we wanted to experience Petra at Night prior to our first daylight visit. Word on the street that if you see Petra before the night-time visit it isn’t as impressive. I’m glad we decided to do the Petra at Night first, as it would be true.
Stay tuned for more from Petra,
~j
Adventures of a couple seeing the world 2 weeks at a time.
Haifa, in Northern Israel, is home to the Bahá’í Gardens. The Garden houses the Shrine of the Bab which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and one of the most holy places for the Bahá’í religion.
You must be logged in to post a comment.