Granada: The Alhambra

Granada Street lights
But it still looks like night-time?!

Our day at the Alhambra started at the crack of dawn as many on our vacations do.  We walked a few blocks, then took a little bus to the entrance gate.  By the time we arrived we were already in a line a few dozen people long.

There are timed entrances on portions of the ticket so that areas of The Alhambra aren’t overrun.   According to everything we’d read, the best times to visit are earliest and latest of the day. The earliest time still available made the most sense to us so we would have more time to explore before closing.

Very Brief History

La AlhambraConstruction on the castle/fortress started in 889, and was part of the Nasrid dynasty by the mid-11th century.  Much of the construction with the absolutely gorgeous Islamic architecture and design took place in the 1300’s.

Catholic monarchs destroyed a portion of the complex and built the Palace of Charles V in the early 1500’s.  Eventually the site was abandoned, fell into disrepair, and was being used by squatters until it was rediscovered in the 19th century.

The Alcazaba & Arms Square

The Alcazaba is the oldest part of the Alhambra.  With the ramparts and many towers, these areas would have been used as a fortress and weapons storage during times of siege.  The bell on the Watch Tower, or Torre de la Vela, was used as a signal danger, or to tell workers in the valley below the different times they had to carry out certain tasks such as watering fields.

Nowadays, the single ladies like the bell!  Tradition says that every young, single, woman who rings the bell on January 2nd will be married by the end of the year.

The Nasrid Palaces
Pigeon, Alhambra, Granada
Reflecting in the reflecting pool.

The Nasrid Palaces were designed with a theme of ‘paradise on earth.’ The columns, arches, fountains and reflecting pools create just the right atmosphere.

Several different areas make up the Nasrid Palaces.  All of the rooms  are impressive–from the baths to the court yards, to the harem, they’re extraordinary.

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The walls are intricately carved, covered in Arabic inscriptions or ornate geometric tiled patterns.  Kudos to the people who made these designs!  I can’t even begin to imagine the amount of effort and concentration it would take to make something so tiny and delicate on such a HUGE scale.

And, it isn’t just the walls that are gorgeous, the ceilings are just as awesome.  The muqarnas would have taken forever to design and carve.  (Muqarnas are the fanciful stalactite-like accents of Islamic architecture.)

The Muqarna filled ceiling of the Sala de los Abencerrajes, The Alhambra
The Muqarna filled ceiling of the Sala de los Abencerrajes, The Alhambra

I had never seen anything quite like the Sala de los Abencerrajes.  A photo can’t do the rooftop justice.  Even today, in its faded state the carving is crazy beautiful.  You can see chips and flecks of colour through-out.  Just try to picture what that would look like colorized!

The Generalife

Lily Pads, GeneralifeThe Nasrid Kings used the Generalife as an escape from palace life.  As a “country estate”  the gardens and ponds are surrounded by perfectly manicured hedges, flowers,  and orchard-like settings.     I was especially excited about the Pomegranate trees!  We do not see those growing in Canada that’s for sure.  And, I totally nerded out and took pictures of them too.  Classic tourist style!

UNESCO Designation, The Alhambra
UNESCO Designation

As a historical complex with beautiful gardens and architectural intrigue at every corner, and as a UNESCO World Heritage site, the Alhambra is an obvious must on any visit to Granada.  Check it out for yourself, you won’t be disappointed.

Happy Travels
~j

 

 

Granada: Street Art

Street art, GranadaIf you’ve been reading along for a while now, you know that I love street art.  I’m not a fan of the scribbles and tags most people would consider graffiti–I want something with a little effort beyond petty vandalism with a sharpie.

Most people visit Granada for the Alhambra, and rightfully so.  I’m not suggesting you visit Granada solely for their impressive Street Art.  However, the juxtaposition of a palatial fortress of such grandiosity with the city’s appreciation for their own Street Art culture is pure aces.  Something typically viewed as a banal inconvenience, is actually seen as inspirational.  Well done Granada, and thank-you!

The artistry was refreshing smattering of small, silly or edgy pieces right through to large scale beautiful murals  We were lucky to see several walls by Granada’s very talented and most ubiquitous street artist is Raúl Ruiz in both Granada and Seville.  (More on that to come.)  For now enjoy these little bits and bobs from around Granada.

Montserrat

Squatzi Montserrat
Squatzi likes Spain!

Side trips and small excursions from major hubs can be the best part of any vacation.  They’re usually off the beaten path, and a little less touristy.  On our third day in Spain, we decided to visit Montserrat,  a Benedictine monastery in the heart of Catalonia.

The trip is about one hour by train from Barcelona, and includes your choice of air tram or railway to get to the top.  Of course, we chose air tram–the Aeri de Montserrat.  Once at the site, there are a few funiculars to other view points and stops of interest.  And we all know how I feel about funiculars!

What you need to know:
  • There’s a pretty dark history of the monastery.  During the Spanish civil war dozens of monks were killed as a violent attempt to suppress Catalan culture.
  • The monastery has one of the oldest and most renowned boys choir.  The choir sings through the day, and they’re an impressive bunch of little kids!
  • Montserrat is one of the most important pilgrimage destinations in Spain.  The main buildings and courtyard are overrun with people.  Thankfully, the hiking trails are not.
  • The Black Madonna statue (claimed to be from 50AD, but carbon dated to the 12th century) is patroness of Catalonia.  “La Moreneta” is the soul of Montserrat.

Imagine a super religious Banff, A.B. or Whistler, B.C. with a lot less winter sports retail, and less party boys, and you’ve got the atmosphere of Montserrat.

Montserrat
These little guys were out for a hike too.

The rock formations,  “serrated mountain” (mont serrat), that give the monastery its name are filled with hiking trails and paths that are fairly easy going.   Along the way there are some lovely view points, shrines, and sculptures.

Subirachs sculpture at Montserrat
Subirachs sculpture at Montserrat

There were sculptures by Subirachs that completely echoed the figures of the Sagrada Familia.  There is also the Ramon Llull’s Escala de l’enteniment.  This translates to me as “scale of understanding” or “ladder of being.”  From bottom to top the steps are Pedra, Flama, Planta, Bèstia, Home, Cel, Àngel, Dèu.  Which to me is Stone, Flames (Hell?), Plants/Earth, Animals, Man, Sky (Heaven?), Angels, God.  Not being a Catalan speaker, I hope that’s close!

Ramon Llull's Escala de l'enteniment
Ramon Llull’s Escala de l’enteniment

The courtyard of the Basilica of Montserrat is beautiful.  I’m a sucker for religious iconography, so I found it particularly interesting.  The fountain of youth/life was ridiculous, but the pilgrims were buying into it whole heartedly.  They were also lined up forever to touch the statue of La Moreneta/the Black Virgin.

Just look at all the tiny, intricate  details from top to bottom of the Basilica façade–seriously, how long would it take to make something like this?!?

Jesus & The Apostles at Montserrat
Jesus & The Apostles. Montserrat Basilica Façade built in 1900 to replace the 1500’s original

And, here’s why iconography super interesting.  Why is the fourth person holding a massive saw?  Or, the eleventh person holding a battle-axe?  At first glance, I know which one is Jesus, but the rest can’t justifiably be lumped together as “the Apostles” without me knowing who they are.   Well thanks to some research, I know much more about the Apostles lives and deaths, most of which were pretty gruesome.

So, my best guesses, from left to right are:  Matthias with a sword, Philip with a cross and basket, Thomas with a spear, Simon with a saw, James the Lesser with a club, Peter with the upside down cross and keys, Jesus, John with the bible, James with the scallops on his shoulders, Bartholomew with the flaying knife, Andrew with the X cross, Matthew with the battle-axe, and Jude with sails, but I can’t really see his outfit or what he’s holding.

If anyone can offer more insight, I’d love to know!

~j