A Different Kind of Journey

Four years ago we were boarding a flight to New Zealand.  Usually there’s a lot of prep that goes into planning a journey.  From booking flights to packing, or learning a new language, there’s a lot of work, and that trip was no exception.  Well, maybe a little easier than normal, Kiwi’s do speak English after all!

Language lessons typically start with vocabulary.  An apple, a man, a dog, etc.; the curve goes up from there.  I’ve done anything from learn by tape, to full university courses in a dozen or so different languages.  I never expected that I’d be a travel companion through the cancer “journey” or have to learn the language of cancer.

Today, I’ve got some of the basics handled.  For example, if you mentioned that someone had low hemoglobin I’d be worried about how tired they might be feeling, or if they’re low enough to need a blood transfusion.  Or, if you told me someone had a low ANC, I’d know you were talking about their neutrophils, and their ability to fight infection.  Basically how well they’ll cope with their surroundings and day-to-day germs that we all take for granted–like being able to go to the movie theatre, or touch a door knob, or get a paper cut.

Who would have though that we’d start speaking in prescriptions and chemo names and even shorten their names to make life easier? Ondansetron, Met, Dex, Vincristine, Docetaxel, Gemcitabine…the curve has been steep these past few months.  I don’t know how my brother and his wife have become fluent so quickly, nor would I have ever wished they’d need such a skill.  How lucky we all are that they are smart, caring, extraordinary parents.  How lucky we all are that they’ve hurled through these terms for almost 5 months and we can use their acquired knowledge to get through medications and chemo here.

RMH Visitor Pass
My visitor pass

Despite so much chaos and craziness going on from appointment /medication schedules, I’ve seen an oasis of calm.  About a month ago I had the pleasure of flying to Vancouver to look after Wyatt for the day while Ben was receiving treatment.  Ronald McDonald House is  outstanding!  The most worrisome part of the trip was the germiness of the flight.

from: www.forbes.com
from: www.forbes.com
I certainly didn't touch this tray!
I certainly didn’t touch this tray!

Air plane germs freak me out when everyone in my life is healthy!!!   Visiting someone who could be neutropenic made flying all the more terrifying.   People depend on me for care; getting the common cold is not an option.  Through conscious effort I didn’t touch anything on the flight except for the seat belt buckle.  Ew Gross!  (Thank-you makers of Purell hand sanitizer for making the flight bearable.)

I am so grateful for RMH.  What an amazing place!  Families worrying about their little ones should not have to face added  stress and worry of accommodation in other cities, or even worse the torment of being separated from other family members while another is treated for illness.  RMH eliminates that worry.  The house really is gorgeous.  The most lovely volunteers make the house exceptionally welcoming and warm.

I’ve updated “Get Involved” to include Ronald McDonald House BC/Yukon.  My family has directly benefitted from their generosity.  Beyond RMH, I’ve included Canadian Blood Services.   There is a shortage of blood across Canada (at the time of writing, there was less than 2 days supply of O-…that’s scary folks!).  Please, please donate blood if you’re able! You’ll be saving someone’s life!  That my friends is a true mark of the incredible kindness of friends and strangers.


~j

ps: I promise this won’t be come about Cancer.  It’s just a different type of travel we’re on now.

2015: Travel Retrospective

Another year has come and gone, and what a year 2015 has been. Unfortunately, the entries are slightly behind schedule.  A few other things have been more important than keeping you all informed about our adventures.   Here’s my half-hearted attempt at a 2015: Travel Retrospective.

At the very start of January we gained a nephew.  The arrival of little Wyatt was without a doubt the best thing to happen in 2015.  He was born on January 2nd, and the year started and quite possibly should have just ended right there with a high point.

In February, we were hoping to be able to travel but unable to make plans due to Fazh’s uncertain health.  Work was slower, so I was finally able to write some more, and just have to put on some finishing touches.  Really they’re all there in a row just waiting for final editing!

White Canyon, Thompson River, BC
White Canyon, Thompson River, BC

Mid-March,  we took a short trip to the tiny town of Lytton, BC.  The Thompson and Fraser River Canyons are always beautiful no matter what time of year.   The smell of sage brush and white pine will always remind me of summer time and white water adventures.

St. Paul's Hospital, Vancouver
St. Paul’s Hospital, Vancouver

At the end of March, Fazh finally had life changing surgery.  I spent a bit of time in Vancouver while he was at St. Paul’s Hospital.  Thankfully his care staff were mostly smart and kind.  He was surround by visitors, friends and family from near and far which definitely made the lengthy stay in hospital more bearable.

For those of you in the know–which is worse, Hospital Food or Airplane Food?

EW GROSS!

By  April we were able to commit to travel.  We finally booked our trip to Turkey.  Fazh’s Danish friend Heinrich came to Canada.  He was a very nice man, and I’m grateful to have met him.

In May I made a couple of trips to Kelowna to take a colleague to her radiation appointments.  Traveling back and forth for days on end while undergoing treatment is not optimal, so giving her a little respite with transportation was the least I could do.

So noisy it's hypnotic!
So noisy it’s hypnotic!

Edmonton was my escape in June.  Jessie and I had a gastronomic tour of the city and really should have practiced better restraint.   Later in the month, our friend Andrew visited us here for a couple of days, and Jon was able to do a bit of climbing.

At the start July we made a little jaunt to Kelowna to visit my Grandma.  I think she needs some extra TLC in July, so visiting her was a definite must.

After obscene amounts of gluttony in Edmonton, Jessie came for a visit here. We did a tour of the Okanagan, through to Penticton, Summerland and Peachland.  The Summerland Ornamental Gardens are done fairly well, and worth checking out if you’re in the area.  FYI: Nothing is quite so tasty as Okanagan grown peaches! Luckily fruit stands are plentiful in the valley, so we returned with some delicious bounty.

Summerland Ornamental Gardens
Summerland Ornamental Gardens
Does this guy like chocolate cake?
Does this guy like chocolate cake?

July was capped off with a few trips to the Lake, where the kids and dogs are as crazy a bunch as ever.  They’re little, and fully of energy, so they’re into catching bugs and minnows, jumping off the dock, and running around like a bunch of crazy toddler/preschool hooligans.

“Ben ağustosta Türkçe öğrendim.” In August I learned Turkish!  If you have never used Duolingo before and you’re keen on learning a new language for FREE, it is awesome. Be respectful of the citizens of your next destination; at least learn some basic phrases and greetings.  The tiny bit of goodwill goes a long way.

Cappadocia
Floating above Cappadocia, Turkey

We spent a couple of weeks traveling through Turkey, and a few days in Greece.  What absolutely gorgeous, gorgeous people and fabulous trip!  This was also the first of our travels where we’ve been too ill to eat. However, we persevered and saw so many beautiful things.  My favorite new spot is definitely the town of Göreme.  More on that to come, I promise.

October is when things usually start getting really busy at work; this year was exceptionally difficult.  My director lost her father, and a week later she was diagnosed with breast cancer.

Looking for Salmon, Adams River BC
Looking for Salmon, Adams River BC

We did have a small bit of normalcy with our traditional trip to the Salmon Run at the end of the month with my niece and nephew.  And then…

In November time stopped.

My 3 year old nephew was diagnosed with Leukemia.  He was instantly airlifted to Vancouver, and has been there since.

Pigeon
Feeding pigeons

December, typically the most “challenging” month for work continued right on being horrible for so many reasons.  There were two good days.   Two.

One where we visited Vancouver to see Ben.  We walked to Granville Island and fed pigeons and gigantic sea gulls.  (Note: Feeding the birds is against the rules, but who wouldn’t break one like that to make a child with a life threatening illness smile?!) Ben was himself for a small bit of the afternoon.  The other good day was when  we  celebrated Christmas on the 20th to accommodate his chemo schedule.

On the 27th,  I had to take Fazh to the hospital for what he thought was a stomach flu.  He had not eaten anything in 5 days.  Turns out his cancer is back, and horrid for the 3rd time now.  And now we wait to see if there is anything chemo can do to make him more comfortable.

As a side note, why must tumours always be compared to produce?  Why not sports equipment, or office supplies?  A tumour the size of a computer mouse would be much more appealing than a couple of grapefruits.

As fazh says, “At least it isn’t a pineapple.”

Here’s to 2016,
~j

Turkey: Inspiration

We’re going to Turkey in just over a week!  I promise to put the finishing touches on the Spain entries and get those finished up before we head out, but for now, take a peek at some of the sites we’ll see.  (Thanks to Leonardo Dalessandri for the video!)

In prep I’ve done over 800 Turkish lessons and have discovered that I’m much better at reading and writing Turkish than I am speaking or hearing.  So, basically if someone writes me a sentence I’ll be golden, but if they talk to me, not so much.  Ha!  At least a legitimate language attempt has been made not to be an ignorant tourist.

I’ve also been reading.  Some good, some not so good.  The good–the cats of Istanbul.  The Hagia Sofia Cat is going to be my buddy.  And, this one Why Istanbul Should be Called Catstantinople.

And this article about Gaziantep, a city close to the Syrian border…not so good.  Or this happening at the Topkapi Palace in Istanbul last week.  Also not so good.

Judging by mainstream news, the security situation isn’t the best.  Travel advisories have affected where we were planning to travel.

Turkey Travel Advice Map
Turkey Travel Advice Map

Just over a month ago, a tour that we had planned to take through Gaziantep and Sanliurfa was cancelled, so we had to quickly rework 5 days of the trip.  Everything worked out though, and the trip will be amazing.

My worry is that my heart will break from the Syrian refugee crisis.  There is no logical reason for children and families who have lived normal lives to be displaced by acts of war.  Imagine living, just as you do now, and suddenly being completely uprooted from your home with no security or safety guaranteed–not to mention food, shelter, or basic sanitation supplies.

So, my search for charitable opportunities in Istanbul and other parts of Turkey we’ll be visiting continues. Any small thing that can brighten someone’s day is worthwhile.

“Just because it isn’t happening here doesn’t mean it isn’t happening.”
~j

Zurich: The Layover

Strawberry Ice Cream
Strawberry Ice Cream snack

If you ever have the option to fly SwissAir, I highly recommend taking the opportunity.  SwissAir has to be one of the most hospitable airlines we have ever used.  AND, the airplane food wasn’t like cardboard covered with vomit.  Even more impressive — meals were served with REAL cutlery and glassware.  Christmas miracle!

Squatzi MadridBoth of us were rather excited to have a layover in Switzerland, rather than Frankfurt again as we have on previous trips.

On our way home from Madrid we ended up in Zurich for the better part of 6 hours.

The ubiquity of Burger King was a running joke for us while we were in Spain.  So, the irony of eating at Burger King while in Switzerland is not lost on me.  Yes, Burger King, at ZRH was the most economical option at 15CHF or approx. $19CDN for a small combo.   A $40 lunch at Burger King for 2 people would not fly here. (Although it would probably help reduce a lot of health issues! The Swiss could be onto something.)

We scouted out some vending machines too!  A 200ml bottle of coke was 5CHF, so roughly $6.40CAD for 200ml.  Our vending machine size is typically 600ml.  So, you’re looking at almost $20 for a bottle of coke, folks!

Even accounting for airport pricing which is usually quite high to begin with…ZRH HAS GOT TO BE THE MOST EXPENSIVE AIRPORT IN THE WORLD!

Happy (cost-effective!) Travels,
~j

(NB: I know, I’m flying somewhere, going on vacation, get some perspective and realize how lucky that is in itself!  I do realize that, and appreciate how extraordinarily lucky I am to be able to explore beyond my hometown.  I get it, but for a budget traveler, Zurich was nuts!)

Seville

From Gibraltar and La Linea, we made our way to Seville in Southern Spain.  I really, really enjoyed the city.  The architecture is fantastic.  Being third largest church in the world, the Seville Cathedral is opulent to say the least.  As part of UNESCO World Heritage site with the Real Alcázar and the Arvhivo de Indias, it was definitely on my radar.   The Alcázar has some of most beautiful and intricate tile work I’ve ever seen.  They’re fantastic!

Here are some photos from our time in Seville:

Happy Travels
~j

 

 

UK: The Rock of Gibraltar

Before we started traveling, I never once thought that I’d someday be standing on a hotel balcony in Spain, while simultaneously looking at a British territory and the coastline of Africa.  But, that’s where I found myself folks!

The coast of Morocco
Coast of Morocco in the distance on the left and Spain on the right from Gibraltar

That’s the second time I’ve been close enough to visit Africa, but just haven’t been able to make it work.  One day Africa…one day!

Classic UK Phone booth, GibraltarGoing from Spain to Gibraltar, you really do get the stereotypical UK experience.  There are the cheesy red phone booths, Bobby’s on patrol, and dozens of Fish & Chip shops.  The Gibraltar Pound Sterling is awesome too–who doesn’t want a monkey on the 5p coin?!?

Visiting to the Rock of Gibraltar is synonymous with visiting the Barbary macaques that make the rock their home.  Other than us humans, the Barbary macaques are the only free-living primates in Europe.  Technically they’re monkeys, not apes, but just go with it–everyone calls them Barbary Apes, so we will too.

Approximately 300 macaques live there, so I knew we’d see them.  Only, I’d heard quite a few stories of attacks by greedy, territorial apes; that wasn’t something I was keen to discover.

Luckily, I didn’t have any issues.  Jon managed to climb up a small look-out to take a photo, and worked his way into the path of two apes that came charging after each other.  Slight body check by primate, and he was none the worse for wear!

The Rock of Gibraltar
The Rock of Gibraltar

In 1713, Spain signed the territory over to Britain “in perpetuity.” As long as the Barbary apes remain on the Rock of Gibraltar, the Rock will remain British Territory.  After WWII, their population had dwindled to less than a dozen.  Churchill ordered their numbers to be increased because of this traditional belief.  So, more monkeys were brought in from Algeria and Morocco.

Barbary Macaque, GibraltarToday they’re closely monitored and cared for by a dedicated veterinary team.  The Barbary macaque is on the endangered species list, so preservation is tantamount.

Beyond visiting top of the rock by cable car to visit the Apes, there are all sorts of old war tunnels, St. Michael’s Cave with impressive formations to visit along the way back to the residential/shopping district at the base.  We spent some time shopping, and then hopped a bus to Europa Point, the most southern point of Gibraltar.

The Point has a few buildings, including the Ibrahim- al-Ibrahim mosque and the Europa Point Light House.  It is also the perfect spot to take photos across the Strait of Gibraltar of the Rif Mountains in Morocco.

Rif Mountains, North African Coast
Rif Mountains, North African Coast from Gibraltar

Having history, geology, and fun Brit shops the check out (Yes, we went to Marks & Spencer), combined with the scenery and the apes makes the Rock of Gibraltar a pretty awesome place to visit.

Happy Travels
~j

Granada: The Alhambra

Granada Street lights
But it still looks like night-time?!

Our day at the Alhambra started at the crack of dawn as many on our vacations do.  We walked a few blocks, then took a little bus to the entrance gate.  By the time we arrived we were already in a line a few dozen people long.

There are timed entrances on portions of the ticket so that areas of The Alhambra aren’t overrun.   According to everything we’d read, the best times to visit are earliest and latest of the day. The earliest time still available made the most sense to us so we would have more time to explore before closing.

Very Brief History

La AlhambraConstruction on the castle/fortress started in 889, and was part of the Nasrid dynasty by the mid-11th century.  Much of the construction with the absolutely gorgeous Islamic architecture and design took place in the 1300’s.

Catholic monarchs destroyed a portion of the complex and built the Palace of Charles V in the early 1500’s.  Eventually the site was abandoned, fell into disrepair, and was being used by squatters until it was rediscovered in the 19th century.

The Alcazaba & Arms Square

The Alcazaba is the oldest part of the Alhambra.  With the ramparts and many towers, these areas would have been used as a fortress and weapons storage during times of siege.  The bell on the Watch Tower, or Torre de la Vela, was used as a signal danger, or to tell workers in the valley below the different times they had to carry out certain tasks such as watering fields.

Nowadays, the single ladies like the bell!  Tradition says that every young, single, woman who rings the bell on January 2nd will be married by the end of the year.

The Nasrid Palaces
Pigeon, Alhambra, Granada
Reflecting in the reflecting pool.

The Nasrid Palaces were designed with a theme of ‘paradise on earth.’ The columns, arches, fountains and reflecting pools create just the right atmosphere.

Several different areas make up the Nasrid Palaces.  All of the rooms  are impressive–from the baths to the court yards, to the harem, they’re extraordinary.

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The walls are intricately carved, covered in Arabic inscriptions or ornate geometric tiled patterns.  Kudos to the people who made these designs!  I can’t even begin to imagine the amount of effort and concentration it would take to make something so tiny and delicate on such a HUGE scale.

And, it isn’t just the walls that are gorgeous, the ceilings are just as awesome.  The muqarnas would have taken forever to design and carve.  (Muqarnas are the fanciful stalactite-like accents of Islamic architecture.)

The Muqarna filled ceiling of the Sala de los Abencerrajes, The Alhambra
The Muqarna filled ceiling of the Sala de los Abencerrajes, The Alhambra

I had never seen anything quite like the Sala de los Abencerrajes.  A photo can’t do the rooftop justice.  Even today, in its faded state the carving is crazy beautiful.  You can see chips and flecks of colour through-out.  Just try to picture what that would look like colorized!

The Generalife

Lily Pads, GeneralifeThe Nasrid Kings used the Generalife as an escape from palace life.  As a “country estate”  the gardens and ponds are surrounded by perfectly manicured hedges, flowers,  and orchard-like settings.     I was especially excited about the Pomegranate trees!  We do not see those growing in Canada that’s for sure.  And, I totally nerded out and took pictures of them too.  Classic tourist style!

UNESCO Designation, The Alhambra
UNESCO Designation

As a historical complex with beautiful gardens and architectural intrigue at every corner, and as a UNESCO World Heritage site, the Alhambra is an obvious must on any visit to Granada.  Check it out for yourself, you won’t be disappointed.

Happy Travels
~j

 

 

Granada: Street Art

Street art, GranadaIf you’ve been reading along for a while now, you know that I love street art.  I’m not a fan of the scribbles and tags most people would consider graffiti–I want something with a little effort beyond petty vandalism with a sharpie.

Most people visit Granada for the Alhambra, and rightfully so.  I’m not suggesting you visit Granada solely for their impressive Street Art.  However, the juxtaposition of a palatial fortress of such grandiosity with the city’s appreciation for their own Street Art culture is pure aces.  Something typically viewed as a banal inconvenience, is actually seen as inspirational.  Well done Granada, and thank-you!

The artistry was refreshing smattering of small, silly or edgy pieces right through to large scale beautiful murals  We were lucky to see several walls by Granada’s very talented and most ubiquitous street artist is Raúl Ruiz in both Granada and Seville.  (More on that to come.)  For now enjoy these little bits and bobs from around Granada.

Montserrat

Squatzi Montserrat
Squatzi likes Spain!

Side trips and small excursions from major hubs can be the best part of any vacation.  They’re usually off the beaten path, and a little less touristy.  On our third day in Spain, we decided to visit Montserrat,  a Benedictine monastery in the heart of Catalonia.

The trip is about one hour by train from Barcelona, and includes your choice of air tram or railway to get to the top.  Of course, we chose air tram–the Aeri de Montserrat.  Once at the site, there are a few funiculars to other view points and stops of interest.  And we all know how I feel about funiculars!

What you need to know:
  • There’s a pretty dark history of the monastery.  During the Spanish civil war dozens of monks were killed as a violent attempt to suppress Catalan culture.
  • The monastery has one of the oldest and most renowned boys choir.  The choir sings through the day, and they’re an impressive bunch of little kids!
  • Montserrat is one of the most important pilgrimage destinations in Spain.  The main buildings and courtyard are overrun with people.  Thankfully, the hiking trails are not.
  • The Black Madonna statue (claimed to be from 50AD, but carbon dated to the 12th century) is patroness of Catalonia.  “La Moreneta” is the soul of Montserrat.

Imagine a super religious Banff, A.B. or Whistler, B.C. with a lot less winter sports retail, and less party boys, and you’ve got the atmosphere of Montserrat.

Montserrat
These little guys were out for a hike too.

The rock formations,  “serrated mountain” (mont serrat), that give the monastery its name are filled with hiking trails and paths that are fairly easy going.   Along the way there are some lovely view points, shrines, and sculptures.

Subirachs sculpture at Montserrat
Subirachs sculpture at Montserrat

There were sculptures by Subirachs that completely echoed the figures of the Sagrada Familia.  There is also the Ramon Llull’s Escala de l’enteniment.  This translates to me as “scale of understanding” or “ladder of being.”  From bottom to top the steps are Pedra, Flama, Planta, Bèstia, Home, Cel, Àngel, Dèu.  Which to me is Stone, Flames (Hell?), Plants/Earth, Animals, Man, Sky (Heaven?), Angels, God.  Not being a Catalan speaker, I hope that’s close!

Ramon Llull's Escala de l'enteniment
Ramon Llull’s Escala de l’enteniment

The courtyard of the Basilica of Montserrat is beautiful.  I’m a sucker for religious iconography, so I found it particularly interesting.  The fountain of youth/life was ridiculous, but the pilgrims were buying into it whole heartedly.  They were also lined up forever to touch the statue of La Moreneta/the Black Virgin.

Just look at all the tiny, intricate  details from top to bottom of the Basilica façade–seriously, how long would it take to make something like this?!?

Jesus & The Apostles at Montserrat
Jesus & The Apostles. Montserrat Basilica Façade built in 1900 to replace the 1500’s original

And, here’s why iconography super interesting.  Why is the fourth person holding a massive saw?  Or, the eleventh person holding a battle-axe?  At first glance, I know which one is Jesus, but the rest can’t justifiably be lumped together as “the Apostles” without me knowing who they are.   Well thanks to some research, I know much more about the Apostles lives and deaths, most of which were pretty gruesome.

So, my best guesses, from left to right are:  Matthias with a sword, Philip with a cross and basket, Thomas with a spear, Simon with a saw, James the Lesser with a club, Peter with the upside down cross and keys, Jesus, John with the bible, James with the scallops on his shoulders, Bartholomew with the flaying knife, Andrew with the X cross, Matthew with the battle-axe, and Jude with sails, but I can’t really see his outfit or what he’s holding.

If anyone can offer more insight, I’d love to know!

~j