Tag Archives: metro

Benvinguts a Barcelona

Not sounding like a carbon copy becomes difficult when writing about a European destination.  Everything has been said a million times.    But here goes…

Our hotel, just off of Passeig de Gracia, was close to metro stations with simple connections to other stations in the city.   When selecting accommodation there are three rules – location, location, location!  Besides, who doesn’t love a great metro system?

from: www.tmb.cat/img/genplano.pdf
from: www.tmb.cat/img/genplano.pdf

Even better than metro convenience, we were within walking distance of a lot of fanciful buildings.  Barcelona has some of the most spectacular architecture!

Passeig de Gracia is home to the “Illa de la Discordia“, a city block with some of Barcelona’s most famous Modernista houses built side by side.   We walked past Gaudí’s Casa Batlló on the Block of Discord everyday.

Josep Puig i Cadafalch's Casa Amatller beside Gaudí's Casa Batlló
Josep Puig i Cadafalch’s Casa Amatller beside Gaudí’s Casa Batlló

After we checked-in to the hotel, we made our way to the Arc de Triomf, and the Parc de la Cuitadella.  The Parc has a fountain by Josep Fontserè which was designed after the Trevi Fountain in Rome.  Seems a bit of a stretch; Fontserè’s fountain is not as impressive.

Our first night was also our first experience with just how many people we would be dealing with while trying to navigate the sights.  One of the greatest things about Barcelona is that there is ALWAYS a ton of street traffic–people walking around, eating tapas or even dinner well into the late hours. (10pm is o.k. for dinner here.) And then, those late hours turn into the wee hours of bar revelers.

People are out and about LATE.  It’s fantastic!  However, zillions of tourists were taking in the “Magic Fountain” show.  We happened upon the show by chance, watching it was fine, but missing it wouldn’t have bothered me one bit.

I won’t even pretend to know the intricacies of the architectural style of modernism aka Art nouveau.  Do you own research if you need to know!  There are several architectural giants on the scene in Barcelona.  Two whose work I admired  most were Antoni Gaudí, and Lluís Domènech i Montaner.

Avinguda de GaudíTwo monumental works, Gaudí’s Sagrada Familila and Domènech i Montaner’s Hospital de la Santa Creu i Sant Pau, bookend the quiet pedestrian street of Avinguda de Gaudí.

Gaudí

Gaudí used mixed media with his gorgeous creations of glass, wood, stone, brick, tile, wrought iron and bits of rubble.  His nature inspired designs make the materials work together.

Seven Gaudí buildings share a UNESCO designation–Casa Vicens, the Nativity Façade, the Crypt of the Sagrada Familia, Casa Batlló, Casa Milà, Park Güell, Palacio Güell and the crypt in Colonia Güell. (I will save the Sagrada Familia for another entry entirely as that cathedral alone justly deserves.)

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

Noticing all of the thoughtful, intricate details of Gaudí’s masterpieces would not be possible even with a lifetime of study.  For the few hours we had to experience Gaudí’s work, his creativity was awe inspiring.  Everything was as much about form as function, with beauty and industry combined into a liveable works of art.

Domènech i Montaner

Domènech i Montaner, who was once a professor to Gaudí, worked to create an iconic Catalan style of architecture.  His designs feature curved lines, exposed brick work, mixed materials, mosaics, stained glass and ornate façades.

Two Domènech i Montaner buildings, the Hospital de la Santa Creu i Sant Pau and Palau de la Música Catalana share a UNESCO designation.  We were able to visit quite a couple of his impressive buildings on our ramblings through the city.

Hospital de la Santa Creu i de Sant Pau
Lluis Domènech I Montaner’s Hospital de la Santa Creu i de Sant Pau

Domènech i Montaner designed the hospital with the belief that patients would fare better with fresh air and nature.  Corridors and service areas were hidden underground, and courtyards were filled with gardens to aid in recovery.

Lluís Domènech i Montaner's Casa Fuster
Lluís Domènech i Montaner’s Casa Fuster

Unfortunately, we weren’t able to visit the Palau de la Música.  Even if we had, there would be no pictures to share as that building is a camera free zone.   We did see Casa Fuster, which is now a functioning as a hotel.

The banners hanging from the building are for La Diada , or National Day of Catalonia.  September 11, 2014 was a particularly important celebration, and referendum vote.

La Rambla
Walking on Miro
Walking on Miro!  Joan Miro’s “Pla de l’Os”.

No trip to Barcelona would be complete without a stroll or two on La Rambla.  The famous pedestrian-only street is a 1.2km feast for the senses.

People. Watching. Paradise.

An utter ZOO of tourists, and hoards of locals on La Diada  were there for our viewing pleasure.  Eliminate the gents selling annoying little “bird” noise makers, and you’d be golden!

Interesting cafés, boutiques, florists, a fun market, and crazy street performers and artists flank the boulevard.   One of my favorite things was the mosaic by Joan Miró.

We weren’t out on La Rambla late, but have heard that it can get a little dark and twisty, with scams and prostitution problems.   As with any area rife with tourists, the scams are there en force, and La Rambla is no exception to that rule.

Columbus Monument
Columbus Monument at Port Vell

We made our way from Plaça Cataluyna at the top, to the Columbus Monument at the lower end near the old port.

The top viewing “area” of Mirador de Colón  = claustrophobic’s nightmare!   Warning: DO NOT attempt if you can’t handle small spaces.  We don’t, and it was a little ick feeling up there without the added phobia.

View of Port Vell from Mirador de Colon
View of Port Vell from Mirador de Colon

Photos and view of the city from the tower, weren’t so spectacular, but the entrance fee was fairly cheap, maybe 4€?    I’d say, “Not really worth it. Save your money for tapas instead!”

Happy Travels,
~j

9 September, 2014

Hi Everyone!

We are alive and well in Barcelona. It has been quite the adjustment with the time and temperature this trip. Boo jet lag!

Going from semi-arid desert to 85 to 90% humidity takes some getting used to. Luckily, the weather has been good so far. We had a little light rain yesterday morning, but nothing umbrella-worthy.

Navigating the city has been easy. The metro is quick and efficient, although the tunnels are like standing in a disgusting sauna while waiting for the air conditioned cars. I’m sure 90% of the 90% humidity is actually sweat from the passengers. That’s disgusting!

For as easy as Barcelona is to navigate, it is one of the more difficult cities to actually see what we want to see. ‎ There is a lot of hurry up and wait, then stand in line. For example, wait in line 40 minutes to an hour only to book a time slot in 2 hours to come back to see the church, museum, or park. The volume of people definitely leaves a lot to be desired.

Yesterday we managed to visit Park Guell and see a lot of the Gaudi buildings around the city. Today we are out of the city in Montserrat. Montserrat is a mountain top town with a Benedictine ‎Monastery. Sadly, it is overrun with people as well, but we are making the most of it. There’s an air tram and 2 funiculars to go along with the hiking trails. Who doesn’t love a funicular?!?

Tomorrow we are booked for the Sagrada Familia. We didn’t want to wait in line for an hour yesterday only to have to go back in 2 more hours, so we booked online, and will skip the waiting tomorrow.

Stay tuned…
~j

Shrine of Guadalupe

On the way home from Peru, we had a 2 day stay in Mexico City. There were a few sites I wanted to see, but for some reason I was a little nervous about being there. The Metropolis that is Mexico is home to over 21 million people. It is the largest city in North America, so you can see why it would be a little intimidating! That said, we managed the metro, and navigating the bus system to everything we wanted to see.

Obviously the city is very old which brings along a lot of interesting, dingy, smelly places. The um, how to explain…aroma? of the City was olfactory assault in its highest art form. On certain streets, just walking around brought on an onslaught of odour. Seriously, I can’t even explain it. Surprisingly, the metro system was actually fairly clean. (At least we didn’t see the same amount of human feces on train cars in Mexico as we did in Paris!) There were sanitation people sweeping platforms and stairways 24/7.

The touts were inescapable, but at least humourous on the metro. People would hop on trying to sell literally everything and anything. We were offered crossword puzzle books, ancient computer repair manuals, rulers, CD’s, and my personal favourite–back scratchers.

While in Mexico, we visited the pyramids at Teotihuacan and Templo Mayor as mentioned previously. We climbed the Pyramid of the Sun. (FYI: It is the 3rd largest pyramid in the world.) I didn’t include photos earlier; here they are now.

When we arrived at Teotihuacan there was an insane performance going on. Thanks to Google, I now know that it is called the Danza de los Voladores de Papantla. The geek in me loves that the ceremony is recognized by UNESCO as Intangible Cultural Heritage.

We also went to the Shrine of Guadalupe. The history of the shrine is similar to that of the Orvieto Duomo. To shorten up the lesson for you–in 1531 a catholic peasant had a vision of the Virgin Mary. She told him to build a church where she was standing so that she could offer love, compassion and protection to the people. The peasant, Juan Diego, spoke to the Bishop. The Bishop didn’t believe him and wanted some miraculous proof.

The Virgin appeared to Juan Diego again, and told him to pick flowers and gather them in his apron. Though it was winter, the flowers grew at his feet, he gathered them and went to the Bishop. An image of the Virgin Mary was imprinted on the apron. Thus, providing the miracle the Bishop wanted and the rest is history.

The Shrine of Guadalupe is the most visited Catholic Shrine in the world. The original basilica that was completed in 1536 is beautiful. There is a new basilica on the site as well. It is kind of gaudy, round shaped, and looks like it should for a building of the late 1970’s. We didn’t enter the new basilica to see the actual apron, or tilma on display above the alter. Church service was going on, and out of respect we stayed out. I was surprised how few people were at the site as I was expecting more visible pilgrimage that I’ve seen elsewhere (e.g.: people crawling or on their knees in hopes that their prayers would be answered.) Still, a site of such importance for so many people is humbling.

Now for science: The cloth has been examined with infrared photography, ultraviolet imaging, and stereo-microscopy. The earliest analysis shows that no under-drawing to rough out the image and no over-varnish on the image. The latter 2 show several layers beneath the current painting with all sorts of different pigments consistent with artist’s materials used in the 1500’s. There are also cracks, flaking of paint and sketch lines that would make it seem that the image was sketched before being painted.

Even with all the scientific analysis to create doubts of the miracle, the tilma still has some pretty impressive attributes. Thanks Wikipedia for the info.

The tilma has maintained its structural integrity over nearly 500 years, while replicas normally last only about 15 years before suffering degradation; it repaired itself with no external help after a 1791 ammonia spill that did considerable damage, and in 1926 an anarchist bomb destroyed the altar, but left the icon unharmed.

In 1929 and 1951 photographers found a figure reflected in the Virgin’s eyes; upon inspection they said that the reflection was tripled in what is called the Purkinje effect, commonly found in human eyes. An ophthalmologist, Dr. Jose Aste Tonsmann, later enlarged an image of the Virgin’s eyes by 2500x and found not only the aforementioned single figure, but images of all the witnesses present when the tilma was first revealed before Zumaragga in 1531, plus a small family group of mother, father, and a group of children, in the center of the Virgin’s eyes, fourteen persons in all.

Numerous Catholic websites repeat an unsourced claim that in 1936 biochemist Richard Kuhn analyzed a sample of the fabric and announced that the pigments used were from no known source, whether animal, mineral or vegetable. Dr. Philip Serna Callahan, who photographed the icon under infrared light, discovered from his photographs that portions of the face, hands, robe, and mantle had been painted in one step, with no sketches or corrections and no visible brush strokes.

I have no doubt that there is paint on the image–whether the miraculous image itself has been painted upon over the years, or painted completely is debatable, but you have to admit that the eyeball thing is a little bizarre.

ps: Our Lady of Guadalupe is the patron saint of Mexico. Juan Diego was also made a saint in 2002. He’s the first Mexican to achieve sainthood.

 

Is my forehead red?

At the airport waiting for the flight home. Should be back in Vancouver in 11 hours and home in about 15 or 16. Today we took the metro to the historic center of Mexico City. (ps: the Mexican Metro is set up the same as the French Metro. Easy peasy!). We visited an archaeological site that basically shows 7 different evolutions of the buildings and the people that lived in them.

It is kinda crazy when you can see what the modern day buildings are built on top of. Yesterday we ended up taking a bus to Teotihuacan. Teotihuacan is an interesting place but most of it is scorched earth with no shade. (kind of like The Kumsheen Resort in the pre-pool/pre-air conditioning days) Not a good day to forget the sunscreen! Oops!

I would have enjoyed the site a lot more if there weren’t so many touts and chatzski sellers trying to sell their crappy crap to me every second step.  So annoying!

The bus ride on the way there should have been a good indication of what to expect. For the hour long drive there the driver kept picking up people selling ice cream, candy, cold drinks etc. And then he picked up Mexican Stevie Wonder who serenaded us for about 20 minutes. Jon took some good video. (NB: Video to be added after we get home. I’m not that technologically advanced when we’re on the road!)

The bus ride home was 2/3 the price of the one there and I’m guessing there was some sort of deal for standing room only.  We are still alive, so no worries. Maybe Greyhound should look into new pricing policies?

More on the bus system later friends, must go find Squatzi some more clothes.
Sent from my BlackBerry device on the Rogers Wireless Network

Who needs sleep?

We weren’t going to sleep day the day we arrived in London even if we had made the original flight. Rumour has it that if you just push through being tired for the first while until a suitable bed time then you won’t be as affected by jet lag. (That’s Jon’s theory anyway!) Pretty sure we were awake for 36 hours before sleeping.

We figured out the Tube right from Heathrow to our hotel, so we didn’t have to spend a fortune getting there. Of all the transit systems we used, London was easiest and cleanest for sure.

London Tube Map

So, we went sight seeing. We walked from our hotel all the way to Trafalgar Square and Picadilly Circus. In the process we saw Buckingham Palace, Big Ben, Parliament, Westminster Abbey (which was already closed). And, we took loads of photos. (Yes, photos are on the way…we took almost 4000, so they’re taking a while to go through!)

Tube & Metro Scams

Who knew it was easy to figure out the Tube or even the Metro?!? (It was easier than this fricken keyboard!)

Every book has about a trillion beware of pickpocket warnings; nothing can prepare a person for the amount of scams on the metro. In London there were warnings, but everything seemed kosher. The police/bobby presence was pretty crazy. At most stations there were sniffer dogs and officers or transit police–not to mention closed circuit cameras everywhere.

Paris is a whole other ball game! First day some dudes tried to offer an “African tradition” by which they occupy both of your hands in some ridiculous friendship bracelet making crap with coloured thread. All the while one of the other ones pats you down and takes your shit. Obviously we did not fall for it. Then there are the pathetic looking gypsy girls who approach with a “do you speak eenglish?” and then they hand you a printed card with a sob story on it asking for money. These chicks are EVERYWHERE!

And you also have the metro beggars who put printed cards on the empty seats asking for money because they are out of work and raising a family etc etc. Then you have your run of the mill pick pockets. I busted one who was trying to get into a woman’s purse. He was none too impressed. True story.

The Paris metro is the dirtiest grossest transit system ever. Read on my friends…