Tag Archives: altitude

Stop, Drop, Roll

Naturally Reseeded by Wildfire
Reseeded by Wildfire in 1988

The park covers 8980km² which is about 2.2 million acres. In 1988 almost 800,000 acres burned. Thousands of fire fighters and 380 million litres of fire retardant were used for one of the largest fire fighting efforts ever, and still it was Mother Nature that eventually squelched the fire with fall rain and snow.

Yellowstone, and the National Park Services have a natural burn policy–as long as a fire is caused by nature (ie: lightening) and isn’t threatening human life, park structures, natural resources or areas of cultural importance the fire is allowed to burn. Obviously fire is important to the ecosystems of the park; I can appreciate that. Allowing 36% of the park to burn in 1988 certainly affected the landscape we saw. One can’t help but wonder what the deforested areas would have looked like had there been no mass fire. It isn’t as though we’re strangers to the scorched earth landscape left behind by wild fires–BC is always on fire. Always. On the positive side, the 20 year old trees appear to be thriving and green where they’re growing back.

Dead trees, YellowstoneAnother tree oddity on Cooking Hillside–“Shake then Bake”. From one of the sign posts: “Covered by dense forest until 1978, this hillside changed dramatically after a swarm of earthquakes struck the area. In spite of being jolted again and again, the trees remained standing, but met their demise soon afterward when ground temperatures soared to 200°F or 94°C! Roots sizzled in the super-heated soil and trees toppled over one by one as steam rose eerily between the branches.”

Some more park facts for you:

Yellowstone Lake is one of the largest high altitude lakes in North America at 2557m above Sea Level. (Or, 7733 feet.) Yellowstone Caldera is the largest super volcano in North America. We crossed the continental divide several times while in the park. Most of the park is in Wyoming, but also there’s 3% in Montana and 1% in Idaho. This Map shows the Caldera, the Continental Divide as well as all the roads and other normal map components. It is almost identical to the one given out at the park entrance.

Yellowstone Lake

Moving from flora to fauna, in 1926 Wolves were nearly exterminated in the park. By the 1970’s the Wolf was on the US endangered species list. In 1995, and 1996 there was a successful Wolf reintroduction program. To promote bio-diversity, 32 wolves were imported to Yellowstone from BC and Alberta. Word is that the wolves “were back” when we were in the park. Loads of people with spotting scopes were at pullouts in the Lamar Valley. One couple we ran into (who said we had Canadian accents, and that they aspire to be Canadian because “we’re so civilized”–so funny!) had been successful in their viewing that morning. They have lived near the park all their lives, and were super excited to share information with us.

Once they had been watching a small wolf pack for days (can’t remember the pack name, but they knew exactly who they were), they saw the wolves take down a bull Elk, and then a Grizzly came and stole the carcass. They said they whole thing went on for about 3 days until loads of people showed up with scopes and binoculars to watch. We did not see anything even close to that, but then again, we didn’t have days to sit in one spot in hopes of seeing something with binoculars.

I did manage to spot some things with my eagle eyes, and thanks to my new camera I did get photos. These shots were taken from super far away, but you still get the gist. ps: I love the little goat peeking out from his leafy snack a top a cliff in the middle of nowhere.

Taquile

Taquile Lake Titicaca PeruFrom the floating islands, we boated another couple hours to the island of Taquile. Once the boat docked, we had to climb this rock pathway to the top of the island. The tourists were way slow, and the locals were practically running up the hill. Gotta love the altitude! I’m sure the people from Florida that were with us were hurting coming from sea level. Climbing down the 550+ stairs back to the dock on the other side of the island was much easier.
Taquile is a UNESCO Masterpiece of Oral and Intangible Heritage to Humanity for the textile work done on the island. The men knit and the women weave as normal every day activity regardless of age. We bought some of the “traditional” chullo hats. The sales centre was like a collective or co-op with each hat being tagged with a number of the person who made it. I’m guessing that each person receives a portion of the money and a portion goes to a collective. At least that’s what I’m hoping.

We were able to wander the island for a while before we had a traditional lunch of trout, lima beans, and rice. The small bottled water on Taquile was the most expensive in all of Peru–about $3. But, considering that it had to be shipped from the mainland, and then a porter had to carry it from the boat port to the top of the island, it only makes sense!

Everyone we saw on the island was traditionally dressed. The ladies and young girls all wore a black woolen shawl. Apparently this is not a religious garment, but a functional one for the weather. The temperature varies greatly from sun to shade due to the altitude. The black garment absorbs heat, and keeps the wearer warmer in the shade. Also, the women only spoke in a whisper as they were very shy. Even when trying to sell their handy crafts, they would ask in a whisper.
Experiencing this unique island was a great way to spend the day.
Happy Travels,
~j

Know what I like? Llamas!

On the second day in Arequipa we were picked up at our hotel for the Colca Canyon and Cruz del Condor tour. Because everything was arranged by the Casa de Avila, we didn’t really know what to expect. Our guide David (Dabeed) spoke both Spanish and English which was handy because we had about half and half for the people on the tour. There were people from Chile, Peru, Brazil, Argentina, USA, and us from Canada. We met a super nice couple from St. Louis – Jill and Jason. David was actually pretty awesome. He knew a lot of information about the people, culture and areas we drove through. I learned more than I expected.

Llama Crossing Sign
For the first day of the tour we drove from Arequipa to Chivay. We stopped several times at handy craft sites set up at strategic points along the route. (Pretty much every where you go there is someone trying to sell something.) We drove through the Salinas y Aguada Blancas National Reserve.

map-arequipa-to-cruz-del-condorThe reserve is home to thousands of Llamas, Alpacas and Vicuñas. Seeing the little camelids in fields on the side of the highway was sweet. I did feel like a total tourist taking photos of them–kind of like people taking photos of Big Horn Sheep on the highway in Banff or Jasper.   FYI:  The novelty wears off if you frequently see the animals on the morning commute.  In total tourist style, I took the photos!

The highest point along the route was Patapampa Pass at 4910m above sea level. (That’s over 16,000ft above sea level for you non-metrics.) We stopped for Coca tea and candies pre-trip. Neither of us had the tea, but both of us ate the candies. I don’t really know how they work, but they help with the altitude. The most we felt was a little short of breath and tight chests. I’m sure the Diamox helped negate any other symptoms we might have had. One poor lady on the tour was barfing from the altitude.  She was not doing well.

Mirador de Los Andes
Translation: Viewpoint of the Andes stretch of the volcanic mountain range in the Central Andes

It was pretty amazing to see all sorts of stone piles, similar to Inukshuk, all along the road. I asked David  for an explanation.  He explained that the  Apachetas are built as an offering to Gods. The people believe that high points are sacred, and try to emulate that with the stones. First they dig a little hole and bury something of importance, maybe their own hair, and then they build the Apacheta on top of the offering. There were literally thousands of Apachetas along the way.

Our stop over for the night was in Chivay, which is this dusty little dust bowl of a town. The Colca Inn was amazingly cute accommodation, especially since we didn’t even select it ourselves. We went out for dinner as a group with everyone from the tour. There was traditional music and dancing. It was all fun and games until we had to participate in the dancing. One dance around the restaurant and I felt as though I’d run a marathon. Score one for altitude that night.

Coconutty Goodness

sunscreenYou might know that during the summer months, I’m in love with coconut scented stuff–shampoo, sunscreen, lotion, hair goo etc. (Just don’t try to make me eat coconut, that’s sick!) We had to go shopping for a few travel supplies tonight, and sunscreen was on the list. (Along with 92 dollars of other crap!)

You’d think that the higher you get the colder it is, so there would be less sun, but temperature doesn’t always relate to sunlight, but really the higher you are, the closer you are to the sun, so that’s all confusing. Apparently, it is all about the altitude when it comes to sun burn. It is easier to get sunburned at altitude as there is less of the earth’s atmosphere to block the sunlight. For every 305m (1000 feet) UV exposure increases 4%. I’m no mathematician, but that’s about 40% higher chance of burning for where we’re going.

Most of the pictures I’ve seen of little Peruvian kids show badly sunburned cheeks. Some captions say their cheeks are perpetually sunburned or even stained from sun damage. I usually scorch in the sun, so I’ll be wearing sun screen. Unfortunately, the coconut is out, don’t want to attract bugs, so we opted for some SPF 60 Ombrelle.

NB: The only time I strayed away from the coconut smell was the Body Shop sunscreen stick. That thing smelled like watermelon, and would probably make me gag now, but it was hot at the time!